47-54 ifs measurement

[dsraven]

I am suffering from PSSS (post shoulder surgery syndrome). lots to do but can't lift ANYTHING! gonna clean up the garage today, one armed. just looking at the old truck and parts but no touchie. envoy is outside under the snow.

[whitedog76]

I hope your arm gets better quick.

I feel your pain. I cut a flexor tendon in my hand back in May. Had surgery, huge cast, splint, and lots of physical therapy. One handed for 3 months wasn't fun, then light duty for a month.

I was about nuts by the end of it all.

Right now I'm on lay-off. (I'm an electrician) Nothing is getting built around here right now. Hopefully back to work soon.

[whitedog76]

Thanks for the offer on the Envoy measurements.

I don't think I'll need them.

Here's my work car

[whitedog76]

On the axle center line measurements I've been seing. Most everybody states 18 1/8" back from the shackle mount for an IFS setup. If I drop a plumb-bob on my frame to the leaf spring center, I'm actually about 18 3/4. I'm not for sure if that measurement is because the leaf spring will move forward as it compresses or if it has to do with the caster angle.

On Kugels website, they say to move the upper spring hat rearward in order to set up the caster angle. Doing that changes the spindle center line slightly. So the 18 1/8" may be them correcting for caster.

All the manufactures seem to be a little different. Some say to adjust the upper A arm in the slots. I'll just have to see when I get there.

[dsraven]

thanks for the kind words.
the measurement diff may be because the springs are arced and when they compress they lose that and become flat. possibly accounting for the added measure?

[whitedog76]

If they flattened out, they would actually move things forward making the measurement less. There is a 2 degree caster shim between the springs and leaves. That might be issue. Rolling the axle forward, would move the centerline.

[dsraven]

what about using a regular steering box instead of the rack style. maybe clear up some issues with clearing the pan with rack. you would possibly need to find or build a centre link and make a spot for the idler arm. or build something like a 4x4 steering uses with a solid tie rod from wheel to wheel, bent to fit around your pan, then another rod goes from the box pitman arm down to that.
just some thoughts.

[whitedog76]

Just got this info.

It's a Gayleco unit. Looks more like what I'm looking for. You can see the spindle center line is 1 7/16 below the frame and the lower control arm is 5/ 1/2 from the frame.

Maybe a better option for me.

[whitedog76]

Here it is

[dsraven]

that would keep the truck sitting tall, like stock. it uses 2" drop spindles already so once in the only way to drop more would be to use short tires.the taller look is what you want though, right? they have a contact number and also a spec page with hub to hub outside dimensions. if it fits it would possibly solve the issue and give you IFS. having the 4.2 would be cool if you can make it work. what is a complete kit, with everything but the wheels, worth? does it use a modified rack or an off the shelf unit? can you buy the u joint and DD shaft for the steering column conversion in the kit? what size of brakes and are the rotors and parts, like tie rod ends and ball joints, an off the shelf part?

[whitedog76]

The left side spindle is stock with a coilover setup. The right is a drop spindle with stock spring. I'm sure the picture is for illustration purposes to show some of the options.

Here's the kits and options he offers. Looks like he has 4 different track width and brake options.

http://gaylebridgesco.com/HubtoHub.html

From what I understand, he gets his crossmembers from JW Rod Garage and modifies them himself. The components, I couldn't tell you where they get them. I'm sure they offer complete kits or even can piece things out.

On a side note, I've been told that the support and knowledge he offers is second to none. In my book, you can't put a price tag on.

When it comes to steering, looks like just a standard MII rack. The pics Hampshire has on his page, he has just 2 U-joints and a very long shaft. Since I'm planning on moving the rack rearward, I may have to do a double joint on the rack at least. Time will only tell.

Now, I just have to scrape the money together and get it done. Originally I was going to keep the straight axle. After looking at this kit, I'm changing my mind.

[Hampshire]

The drawing above from Gayle is my IFS; Couple things people may want to know:

* I didn't use the drop spindles and I am 2+ inches down from stock with tires (on 16s) that are 29" tall.

* Drop spindles will add 2" more drop than the 2+ I have - going with 28" tires on 15s will give you a little more.

* I opted for the extra 1-3/4" track width. I like the look of the tires centered in the fender well instead of the tucked in look you see in many dropped/slammed IFS systems (which are a nod to the standard 57" track) . What I ended up is more like the track width you get from a GM clip.

Yup, there is lot's of clearance for the pan.

[whitedog76]

Hampshire-

What wheel and tire combo are you running? Also, what rearend are you using?

I have 235/70/16s that I'm planning on using in the front and 245/70/16 for the rear.

I traded my cousin for an Explorer 8.8.

[whitedog76]

On a side note, are those solar panels in the background?

[Hampshire]

What wheel and tire combo are you running? Also, what rearend are you using?

My set up is close to yours - I ended up with 235/70 -16 on front and 255/65-16 on back. They are both on 7” wide rims (8” rims were too tight in back) and both are 28.9” tall. The rear is a 3:73 Posi out of a Nova.

The solar rig is an Allsun Tracker by All Earth Renewables. We have 3 buildings and two services - haven't had to pay a bill since it went on-line, 18 months ago.

[whitedog76]

Hampshire

Thanks for all the info. Getting my truck to look s little more like yours is the ultimate goal. One of these days...