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Old 03-18-2017, 05:56 PM   #1
SeanB242
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Another wiring question

installing a new wiring harness. i labeled everything before i took it out and downloaded the factory wiring diagram and the headlight diagram. i have headlights, blinkers and flashers. I can not get the front marker lights or tail lights to come on. checking power at the light switch the only terminal that gets power when the switch is pulled out is the headlights. If I pull it half way out for marker lights i dont get power to any of the other terminals. the diagram shows the 2 brown wires should be getting power from the switch but i get nothing? Confused, please help
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:54 PM   #2
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Re: Another wiring question

Fuse for parking lights hot? How much of new stuff?
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Old 03-18-2017, 08:42 PM   #3
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Re: Another wiring question

Tail light fuse powers orange wire to headlight switch and brake lamp switch, headlight switch out halfway or all the way should put power to the brown wire which is running lights.
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Old 03-18-2017, 10:06 PM   #4
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Re: Another wiring question

The harness I bought don't have a tail light fuse. I have a headlight or brake switch
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Old 03-18-2017, 11:58 PM   #5
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Re: Another wiring question

WOW thanks randy & moose. Only took two days but i got it. now to figure out the horn and dome lights
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Old 03-19-2017, 02:21 AM   #6
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Re: Another wiring question

The orange wire also powers the dome light through the dome light fuse. There is no switch for it. It is run directly to the dome light and the white wire is the ground side and it is switched by the door post switches if you have them. Otherwise the headlight switch grounds the white wire when it is turned fully clockwise. This may be why you are having trouble with the Marker, tail and parking lights because your headlight switch is faulty.


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Old 03-19-2017, 06:47 AM   #7
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Re: Another wiring question

Thanks everyone, I got it figured out. I was just assuming the red feed wire going into the light switch was also feeding the other circuits. The headlight switch was being cranky before i even started this project so I went ahead and replaced it, along with dimmer switch which came apart when taking the plug off, and a faulty horn relay. Im sure your all aware but if not all 3 of these are available at Autozone.
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Old 03-19-2017, 07:45 AM   #8
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Re: Another wiring question

I hate wiring, especially when it is giving me trouble. I am about at the pooint of wiring my cab up soon and I am not looking forward to it. I have a painless harness, we will see how painless it is. Glad you were able to get yours worked out.
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Old 03-19-2017, 12:40 PM   #9
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Re: Another wiring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by GR8-68 View Post
I hate wiring, especially when it is giving me trouble. I am about at the pooint of wiring my cab up soon and I am not looking forward to it. I have a painless harness, we will see how painless it is. Glad you were able to get yours worked out.
I didn't much care for wiring either, but with a lot of research and thanks to some posters, primarily Vette, and despite the fact I'm colored blind, I've got the lay out down to simple, and can even ID colors now. Couldn't tell you about inside fuse panel though. That's a place I hope to never visit.
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Old 03-19-2017, 02:15 PM   #10
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Re: Another wiring question

This site is definitely very helpful for sure. The one thing about painless is the wires are labeled at least.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:06 AM   #11
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Re: Another wiring question

Yes GR8-68 it is very helpful. So i guess Ill go ahead and ask another question. HAHA. In the early 90's I had a 68 shortbed. I hate the way a factory runs wires and has been a pet peeve of mine. I had converted that truck to internal regulated alt. Fast forward to 95 and the truck was replaced by a 66 Chevelle which I still own, whats left of it but that is another post. I had also tidied up the wiring and and changed to internal regulator. So its been a while since I did this. On this truck I once again removed the regulator and im not sure I rewired it correctly. The red wire out of the plug on the alt. is ran to the red lug on back of alt. Not sure what wire to run the second wire in the alt. plug from? or to, not sure which? haha
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Old 03-20-2017, 11:29 AM   #12
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Re: Another wiring question

My dash has the gauges in it. According to the wiring diagram the brown & white wire from the ignition switch goes to the bulkhead and is just brown out the the regulator. Since I replaced all my wiring I just need to extend that wire out to the plug at the alt? Also the diagram shows a black & white wire from the instrument cluster also going to the alt. Do I run that wire out there also?
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:18 PM   #13
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Re: Another wiring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB242 View Post
Yes GR8-68 it is very helpful. So i guess Ill go ahead and ask another question. HAHA. In the early 90's I had a 68 shortbed. I hate the way a factory runs wires and has been a pet peeve of mine. I had converted that truck to internal regulated alt. Fast forward to 95 and the truck was replaced by a 66 Chevelle which I still own, whats left of it but that is another post. I had also tidied up the wiring and and changed to internal regulator. So its been a while since I did this. On this truck I once again removed the regulator and im not sure I rewired it correctly. The red wire out of the plug on the alt. is ran to the red lug on back of alt. Not sure what wire to run the second wire in the alt. plug from? or to, not sure which? haha

Allow me to butt in.
The answer to these questions is easy since I have advised hundreds of guys on how to do it. It doesn't matter what vehicle you convert to internal regulated, all you need to do is to feed the alternator plug with a resistance wire to the no. 1 terminal from a key on source, and feed the no. 2 terminal from a junction of all the wires that power the accessories in the vehicle.

The no. 1 wire is the wire usually run from the key switch and has a built in resistance equivalent to 10 ohms. It is present in most all of the wiring circuits that use alternators, whether they are internally or externally voltage regulated. This is the exciter wire that turns the alternator on. Normally the job of exciting the alternator is handled by the charging light, with the resistance wire as a back up in case the light bulb blows. These two sources of power are run in parallel but the gauge dash does not have the light as the resistance and instead uses the resistance wire and the battery gauge to indicate charging.

This diagram illustrates the above.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB242 View Post
My dash has the gauges in it. According to the wiring diagram the brown & white wire from the ignition switch goes to the bulkhead and is just brown out the the regulator. Since I replaced all my wiring I just need to extend that wire out to the plug at the alt? Also the diagram shows a black & white wire from the instrument cluster also going to the alt. Do I run that wire out there also?
You are correct about extending the brown/white wire to the alternator plug, no.1 to be exact. since you eliminate the EVR, you will extend the brown wire all the way to the alternator. Some guys just jumper the brown wire at the EVR to the white wire that goes to the R on the 10DN alternator OEM alternator, and jump the red sensing wire on the EVR plug to the blue wire which goes to the F terminal on the OEM alternator, Then they connect the white wire to the no.1 terminal. (extended the brown wire) and connect the blue wire to the no. 2 voltage sensing terminal. (Extending the red wire) on the internally regulated alternator. Of course they have to change the alternator plug to make the connections.

To illustrate this.


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This works OK but I like the simplified version shown below which illustrates exactly what you said about extending the brown wire to the IR alternator.

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Now I'm not a big fan of looping the no. 2 terminal, sensing wire, on the IR alternator over to the output lug, due to hindering it's ability to compensate for voltage drops down stream from the alternator. It'll work but it will sense the voltage at the alternator output, and not at the point where all the loads draw juice from. It's possible to get a 2 volt drop on the wires going to the headlights wipers heater etc. If you notice in my last diagram I run the red sensing wire to the junction of all the power wires wherever that junction may be.

This is a great explanation by Mad Electric on this feature. Be sure to read the other articles shown in the website for some very informative information.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml


Your last question on the black/white stripe wire. It is probably the alternator side of the battery gauge, and should be connected with the alternator output wire wherever it supplies the power to the main junction.On your Chevelle it should be connected at the horn relay.

There should also be a solid black wire somewhere near the battery positive terminal to read the battery state of charge, and relay it to the battery gauge. This one is normally connected to the junction bolt on the right fender of the 67 to 72 trucks.

Here is a diagram of the ammeter wires on the trucks, notice the 18 gauge wire in the circle on the top, and the other one with the stripe at the bottom junction of the power wires. They would all be mounted on the horn relay on your chevelle.

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Old 03-20-2017, 10:52 PM   #14
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Re: Another wiring question

Oh geez. Thanks guys got that part figured out now. I started final assembly of all the wires today. Now I have everything working EXCEPT the blinkers quit. Haha. My new fuse box has a purple wire out that is to signal switch which is purple into the steering column correct? Then dark and light blue out of column to front blinkers and yellow and dark green to rear blinkers? I thought I disconnected and reassembled the wires one at a time but somehow I screwed it up. Will this ever end? Haha should my purple blinker feed from fuse panel be going to the front and rear blinkers instead of feeding the purple wire in the column?
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:15 AM   #15
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Re: Another wiring question

Purple on my truck was this........Pretty sure it's factory.

• Ignition Switch SOL: 12 AWG purple for the starter solenoid. This wire runs down to the fuse box.

• Neutral Safety: Two 12 AWG purple wires connect to the RH (TS) portion of the switch. These wires route from the fuse box.

• Turn Signal Switch: 18 AWG purple: For turn flasher. This wire runs down to the fuse box.

• Blower Relay: 12 AWG purple: One 12 AWG purple wire inserts into the center portion of the connector. This wire runs to the blower.

• Starter: 12 AWG purple:
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Old 03-21-2017, 12:34 AM   #16
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Re: Another wiring question

Thanks. I have all those worked out. The purple for the front marker lights is where I went wrong but not sure how.

UPDATE. Sorry I didn't see the part where you said that.

Last edited by SeanB242; 03-21-2017 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 03-21-2017, 01:05 AM   #17
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Re: Another wiring question

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Originally Posted by SeanB242 View Post
Thanks. I have all those worked out. The purple for the front marker lights is where I went wrong but not sure how.
I'm confused. What vehicle are you working on, year, and are your blinkers working or not, and are your marker lights working or not, and are you talking about marker lights, or are you talking about the front parking lights which are what the purple wires feed?

does the headlight switch I posted match what you have?
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Old 03-21-2017, 01:23 AM   #18
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Re: Another wiring question

Sorry Vette. I'm working on my 69 Chevy c10. I was trying to keep from starting another thread. Yes that is my headlight switch. I had everything temporarily hooked up and working other than the alternator wire I was asking about earlier. So I started removing all the extra wire from the new fuse box and soldering all my connections. I have front and rear marker light now and head lights. But no blinkers from or rear. I'm thinking the purple blinker feed needs to go the light blue dark blue and rear blinker feeds and one of the brown feeds off headlight switch to purple wire into steering column?
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:32 AM   #19
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Re: Another wiring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB242 View Post
Sorry Vette. I'm working on my 69 Chevy c10. I was trying to keep from starting another thread. Yes that is my headlight switch. I had everything temporarily hooked up and working other than the alternator wire I was asking about earlier. So I started removing all the extra wire from the new fuse box and soldering all my connections. I have front and rear marker light now and head lights. But no blinkers from or rear. I'm thinking the purple blinker feed needs to go the light blue dark blue and rear blinker feeds and one of the brown feeds off headlight switch to purple wire into steering column?
Ah makes more sense now.Here's the routing.

The blinker wire comes off the fuse panel and runs to the steering column connector. It should have power with the key on.
The hazards are powered by a brown wire from the fuse panel from the hazard flasher and should have power all the time. It is next to the purple wire in the connector. You didn't ask about that but it may help with the routing.

The brown feed off the headlight switch goes to the inside of the firewall block and exits in the engine bay as a dual purple wire for the front parking lights and the marker lights are connected to those.

Here's the wiring diagram to illustrate.
The half moon connector on the upper right shows the turn signal wiring with the light and dark blue wires and the purple and brown flasher power. Follow the purple and brown back to the fuse panel. On the lower right edge you'll see the brown wires from the headlight switch. They match the brown wires in the second diagram which shows their path from the headlight switch. If we could put the two diagrams side to side it would be easier to see.

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Notice the red wire in the middle on the left edge. It is the power wire for the headlights and goes to the headlight switch.

The brown wire just above it (20 gauge) is the alternator charging light wire which goes to the inside of the firewall block Gauge dashes don't have this wire.
The brown wire just above it is the one that goes to the firewall block and exits in the engine bay as the two purple wires. See the next diagram.

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HTH VV
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Old 03-21-2017, 04:12 AM   #20
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Re: Another wiring question

Thanks so much again vette. I think I know what I did wrong now. I've been looking at these diagrams for a week now and I think I got myself confused along the way. I'll go back over it in the morning when I get home from work.
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:30 AM   #21
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Re: Another wiring question

UPDATE! I double checked all connections when I got home this morning. They were all right. WTH? So I took the new fuse box loose and used my tester to check for power at the blinker feed wire and got nothing. Well the new fuse box has a pink wire that i had hooked to the ignition switch that I thought I needed for the starter then realized I didn't so I disconnected it. AH HA! That Pink wire into the fuse box feeds the other half of my fused circuits, hooked it back up and low and behold my blinkers are back. God grief. Did I mention how much I despise wiring issues. Just like to thank everyone who chimed in to help get me straight.
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:40 PM   #22
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Re: Another wiring question

Congratulations and thanks for the feedback.
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Old 03-21-2017, 08:32 PM   #23
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Re: Another wiring question

You guys are fantastic, what a great thread.
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Old 03-22-2017, 12:49 AM   #24
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Re: Another wiring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteVet View Post
Allow me to butt in.
The answer to these questions is easy since I have advised hundreds of guys on how to do it. It doesn't matter what vehicle you convert to internal regulated, all you need to do is to feed the alternator plug with a resistance wire to the no. 1 terminal from a key on source, and feed the no. 2 terminal from a junction of all the wires that power the accessories in the vehicle.

The no. 1 wire is the wire usually run from the key switch and has a built in resistance equivalent to 10 ohms. It is present in most all of the wiring circuits that use alternators, whether they are internally or externally voltage regulated. This is the exciter wire that turns the alternator on. Normally the job of exciting the alternator is handled by the charging light, with the resistance wire as a back up in case the light bulb blows. These two sources of power are run in parallel but the gauge dash does not have the light as the resistance and instead uses the resistance wire and the battery gauge to indicate charging.

This diagram illustrates the above.

Attachment 1634268




You are correct about extending the brown/white wire to the alternator plug, no.1 to be exact. since you eliminate the EVR, you will extend the brown wire all the way to the alternator. Some guys just jumper the brown wire at the EVR to the white wire that goes to the R on the 10DN alternator OEM alternator, and jump the red sensing wire on the EVR plug to the blue wire which goes to the F terminal on the OEM alternator, Then they connect the white wire to the no.1 terminal. (extended the brown wire) and connect the blue wire to the no. 2 voltage sensing terminal. (Extending the red wire) on the internally regulated alternator. Of course they have to change the alternator plug to make the connections.

To illustrate this.


Attachment 1634273


This works OK but I like the simplified version shown below which illustrates exactly what you said about extending the brown wire to the IR alternator.

Attachment 1634274


Now I'm not a big fan of looping the no. 2 terminal, sensing wire, on the IR alternator over to the output lug, due to hindering it's ability to compensate for voltage drops down stream from the alternator. It'll work but it will sense the voltage at the alternator output, and not at the point where all the loads draw juice from. It's possible to get a 2 volt drop on the wires going to the headlights wipers heater etc. If you notice in my last diagram I run the red sensing wire to the junction of all the power wires wherever that junction may be.

This is a great explanation by Mad Electric on this feature. Be sure to read the other articles shown in the website for some very informative information.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml


Your last question on the black/white stripe wire. It is probably the alternator side of the battery gauge, and should be connected with the alternator output wire wherever it supplies the power to the main junction.On your Chevelle it should be connected at the horn relay.

There should also be a solid black wire somewhere near the battery positive terminal to read the battery state of charge, and relay it to the battery gauge. This one is normally connected to the junction bolt on the right fender of the 67 to 72 trucks.

Here is a diagram of the ammeter wires on the trucks, notice the 18 gauge wire in the circle on the top, and the other one with the stripe at the bottom junction of the power wires. They would all be mounted on the horn relay on your chevelle.

Attachment 1634275
Vette, how come you didn't mention using the 75 OHM,3 watt resistor and a diode in this post? I gathered those parts and getting ready to do the alternator swap, do I need those parts or not, I am confused....more info would be good, Thanks

Last edited by El Dorado Jim; 03-23-2017 at 02:21 AM.
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Old 04-02-2017, 11:18 PM   #25
VetteVet
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Re: Another wiring question

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Vette, how come you didn't mention using the 75 OHM,3 watt resistor and a diode in this post? I gathered those parts and getting ready to do the alternator swap, do I need those parts or not, I am confused....more info would be good, Thanks
Hello Jimmy- I didn't say anything about them because we were talking about the SI series alternators 10 SI and 12 SI. They already have the charging light or the resistance wire on the key switch for the 10 ohms resistance that they need. If You're going to install the newer CS style then you need more resistance but not necessarily the diode.

This thread tells about the conversions.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417872
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