New to the Board, seeking 1st Gen K5 and information

[Chris Lott]

Hello, I just wanted to introduce myself and ask a couple of quick questions (probably not very quick though).

I have two 70 Buick GSs (one a 350, one a 455) both are very original cars that I am restoring (I'm one of those resto freaks). I hang out at the http://www.v8buick.com board most of the time, as I do a lot with the Buicks, anyway keeping tabs on both of these boards is going to be quite a chore, they are both very active from what I can see.

Anyway, I have always liked the first generation K5s, and now it is time to start looking for one. I know of a few in my area, but honestly I have a lot to learn before I know these trucks as well as I do my Buicks, and I'm going to need to learn about the areas and items to watch out for. I want to find a very original Blazer, something that can be restored close to original (although I will probably put a little big larger tire and lift on there, that being about the only mod I'm looking to do).

I have read that the Rocker Boxes, "bed" corners, cab corners, and windsheild frame are the main areas of interest when checking one out. If anyone can provide a picture or two of these areas, that would be super as I haven't really looked closely at one of these trucks before and I am going tomorrow to look at one or two. I also see that the rear seats and front buckets are very specific, and somewhat hard to find. Is this the case and what should I watch for to make sure they are original (not late model bolt in-s).

A couple of the blazers down here do not have the hardtop with them, and that will be a problem as I definately want the top. Are the tops generally hard to find items, or should it not be something to worry about. They do have softtops, but being one of those resto type people I don't know if I can deal with the soft-top look on a day to day basis. It will either be hard top or no top most of the time.

Well sorry for such a long post, but I figured I might as well get everything out there and see what kind of responce I get. I have done a couple "blazer" searches through the back posts and read what I could, but haveing never really messed with the trucks before I have some new termnology to learn. Thanks for the read, and I look forward to meeting some new people.

[Palf70Step]

Not much into the Blazers myself, but you'll find what you need here more than likely. Welcome to the board from South Mississippi.

[mtdave2]

ill keep an eye out for a good one here in san antonio.

as far as info. just do some searches on here. there is all kinds of info..

[Canadian694x4]

welcome from the Great White North!

['68OrangeSunshine]

Hardtops for '69-'72 K/5s are hard to find separatly, best to buy a truck that already has a good top. There were 2 types: Double-wall ('69 -'72) and single-wall ('72). Also check the hatch operation for lockwork, fit and rattle. New repop hatches w/o glass or hardware can run $400.
Welcome to this board. You might aso be interested in a Blazer specific board--
www.coloradoK5.com:

gmc:

[JimKshortstep4x4]

Welcome to the board from West Michigan!

Once you find out how nice these trucks and Blazers are you will neglect your Buicks!

Jim

[Blue Beard]

Welcome to the board from Washington State...............

I am a past Buick owner myself.............had an original 1935 Buick Coupe until a couple of years ago when I couldn't drive it any more.........

[Chris Lott]

Thank you 68OrangeSunshine, that information will be useful when I do some of my looking today and in the future. I have been watching ColoradoK5 for a little while too, that looks like it is probably the most active blazer - spefic site on the net... am I correct? Can anyone make some good recommendations on books to purchase? I need to learn the difference between CST, Cheyenne, etc and what all is included with each model variation. I know one of the major differences I am noticing right now is between the standard and fancy marker lights. Anyway, thank you for the warm welcome!

[bouncytruck]

Looks like you have been doing your homework. The Rocker boxes and windshield frame are two the most overlooked problem areas. Mostly because they are hard to see the problem and difficult to replace or repair. The rocker boxes are under floor boards below the door. The large steel box between the rocker panels (outer and inner) and the frame. This box provided structural support when the top is off. Here is a picture of a rocker box (with a huge hole cut in it) from Blazerworld.net
For the windshield frame, make sure that you lift the top up to see if there is any rust under it.

I would also recommend you buy a truck with a top, especially if your going to do a resto job. The single wall tops are considered more desireable because they bolt down from the top where as the double wall tops bolt up from under the bed rail. Many guys in the sunny states sell their tops because they just don't use them. Hatches area always a problem. Most of them have some damage, many, like mine, are trashed. As mentioned above, you can buy reproductions now.

As far trim levels go, CST is the top of the line. At a quick glance, the truck will have the "Deluxe" side markers and an emblem on the doors below the windows. Most likely, it will have side moldings with or without woodgrain trim. Also, most CSTs have AC.

Rear seats were options, so if you want one, make sure that your truck came with one. You can buy them used (I bought mine from a board member for $150) but they are hard to find. They do make recovering kits for all the seats. If you want a resto job, try to find one with the original seats and brackets. They can be expensive and hard to find.

'69 was the first year for the blazer and there weren't too many built. Minor changes in '70. Disk brakes were added in '71 so if you want to keep it original and have disks, I'd search for a '71 or '72. A previous owner did the swap for me.

Also, most blazers had the NP205. There are a few '69s with Dana 20's.

Both this site and ColoradoK5 have a wealth of infomation. I think you'll find a few more purists on this site but more blazer owners on CK5. Many people, including myself, are board members on both sites.

Gook luck in your search and feel free to ask a lot of questions.

[Chris Lott]

Wow Thanks, that helps a lot! It looks like I should be looking for a very original 71 or 72 CST. When I started out I just wanted a classy truck to go mudding in but now after seeing all of the cool options and stuff these trucks have I want an original one to restore. I guess I should be expecting to pay 3-4k for a restorable CST with some of the desirable options (AC, Rear seat, etc). If you don't mind my questions, what exactly is the problem with the rear hatches? Is it the locking mechanism, or the hatch warping and not sealing correctly? In the two days I have been on here, I have learned a lot already. Thanks for the help!

[bouncytruck]

The fiberglass around the hinges cracks. In the case of my hatch, a large chunk (about 6" long running from the top of the rear window to the top of the hatch) is missing. The hardware parts are hard to find too and it seems like a lot of the latches have seen better days. If the hatch just has some damage to the lower corners or minor cracks, you should be able to fix the fiberglass. If the hardware is all there, or almost all there, but not working, you should be able to get it working properly. I would rule out a good deal if the hatch is bad. There are ways to get a new one.

I think that $3-4K should get you something nice. I paid $4K for mine but it isn't anywhere near stock.

This guy has a nice looking rig for sale in Oregon. I'm surprised nobody has snatched this up yet...

http://mywebpage.netscape.com/higill...nt/photos.html

['68OrangeSunshine]

Since all K/5 tops are fiberglass, after 30-odd years they tend to have cracks and surface finish issues. In most cases this is repairable with a fiberglass patch kit, a Bondo product. Exterior paint can be Gel-coat from a boat shop. Hatch latch hardware is the big thing. They don't make it anymore. A handle assy I got from Golden State was not OEM, but it worked. The inside relay rods can pop off either end if operating on rough roads and not secured by factory clips. [Also hard to find] I run a repop hatch and while quality was good, the incident with a friend's ranch gate totally thrashing my [extended] original hatch sent small parts all over the desert. Replacing those pieces was a quest. The replacement hatches come w/o internal hardware. Even unbashed ones can rattle off-road or at freeway speeds -- driving you nuts.
If you go for a "showboat" you'll be missing the whole point of owning a 4WD -- the sheer joy of thrashing about in the outback!
Coffee table books about classic Chevy and GMC trucks are all very well and good, but I've found alot of errors in small details in many of them. The only real books you need are the [year specific] Chevy Truck 10 - 30 Chassis Service manual, and companion Overhaul manual. Available in reprint from parts vendors. Another interesting book is the "'67-'72 Chev/GMC Factory Assembly Manual." This book doesn't have any explanitory text and GM P/Ns are deleted, (perhaps for copyright reasons?) --being a compilation of 6 years of production line drawings saved from the shredder -- but in the instance you do find the diagram of a specific part or assembly sequence -- one picture is worth 1000 words.
Good hunting.

[>X<]

hahah, is your name really chris lott? are you related to any lotts in baton rouge? one of my friends name is chris lott. weird

[Chris Lott]

Not that I know of. There used to be another Chris Lott in town that worked at a computer store. I do have family all over the country, but as far back as I know none in baton rouge.

[darrel_s]

Welcome to the board from South Carolina.

In your seach, try and find one that is solid and as close to complete as you can. You may find a deal that is missing a top, hatch, etc..., but its going to cost you big to try and replace what your missing down the road. It's not easy to find parts for the K5s, especially that are cheap. Good luck.

[Chris Lott]

Thanks for the great tips. That is generally what I am gathering, I need to look for a very complete K5 and as solid as I can find. They are not easy to find in complete condition, these trucks seem to be very used. There are a few K5s around, but most have pretty big dents in the 1/4s. How hard are these to straighten? Is my understanding that the 1/4s aren't reproduced correct?