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02-28-2003, 12:16 AM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Summerfield, Ks
Posts: 741
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cab corners
What do you guys think the best way to put a cab corner on??Use the whole aftermarket piece or just cut away the old rust and cut the new panel to fit???pictures welcomed, haha.any and all help appreciated.
thanks kevin
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1970 Chevy CST/10 1970 Chevy CST/10 1972 Chevy C/10 1972 Chevy Suburban K/10 2019 Silverado 2500 Duramax Kevin |
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02-28-2003, 12:34 AM
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#2 |
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senior member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: fort macleod alberta
Posts: 2,770
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do the whole panel
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69 GMC bagged |
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02-28-2003, 12:58 AM
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#3 |
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Gotta Startem Early
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Amarillo, TX, USA
Posts: 364
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The very best on this board (ebfabman) reccomend just replacing as much as you need. Most aftermarket pieces do not line up correctly. Just replace what is rusted.
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67 SWB In Progress, one piece at a time, maybe 3 years I will be finished |
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02-28-2003, 01:08 AM
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#4 |
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senior member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: fort macleod alberta
Posts: 2,770
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true enough, I must say tho i had the best luck wiht my napa parts to each his own
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69 GMC bagged |
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02-28-2003, 01:14 AM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: escondido, ca 92026
Posts: 1,222
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cut the rust back on your existing cab corner and then trim the new cab corner to fit.
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'72 short step, 350, 700R4, tilt, ps, pdb, a/c, lowered coils, etc., other work in progress... San Diego, CA 72 Stepside Project |
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02-28-2003, 01:31 AM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 952
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Yes, the smaller the amount you have to patch in the better.
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02-28-2003, 09:56 AM
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Wyoming USA
Posts: 2,445
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Warped
I used just what I needed and it warped on me if I was going to do it again I would cut it at the line or seam.I was told that u can blend your weld better this way.The way I did it caosed it to warp but nothing a little filler won't take care of.I am by no means a body/ paint man just the average do it your selfer I know when to say when.Hope this helps just my experiance
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2001 Silverado K-1500 2005 FXDWG stage3 69 CHEVY Short/Step 327/4L60 373 posi 63 IMPALA 327 |
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02-28-2003, 10:54 AM
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#8 |
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Car Knocker
Join Date: May 2001
Location: jefferson,arkansas
Posts: 664
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I always try to leave the original body lines. Just cut out what is rusted. Have you remove the rocker? On my truck, it seemed to put together from the factory back to front. By the time I got the cab corner cut, I found more rust. Ended up pulling the whole side of my truck down., to get all of it. I knew I would eventualy have to do it. Just not all at once.
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68 c-10,91 sportside bed,350 .030 over,4 bolt,10-1 comp,2.05 intake/1.94 exhaust,1.6 Harland Sharp roller rockers,edelbrock rpm cam and intake w/750 carb, 700r4, 3.73 gears,Jacabbs Electronic Igntion w/Accel HEI distributer and super coil. ZR-1 roll pan, filled tailights. Blazer tank. Hidden hitch. 2 1/2" Flowmaster 40's. Parts bought but not installed>> ford 9" posi with disc. CCP front and rear lowering kit 4/5. Cab corners,foor boards,rockers, cab braces, Phatom grill, Painless wiring kit. |
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02-28-2003, 10:57 AM
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#9 |
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Car Knocker
Join Date: May 2001
Location: jefferson,arkansas
Posts: 664
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couple of more of what I had to cut out. Also had to replace front cab mount. Sucked doing this outside. Fought surface rust until I got it primed with Eastwoods rust inhibiter.
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68 c-10,91 sportside bed,350 .030 over,4 bolt,10-1 comp,2.05 intake/1.94 exhaust,1.6 Harland Sharp roller rockers,edelbrock rpm cam and intake w/750 carb, 700r4, 3.73 gears,Jacabbs Electronic Igntion w/Accel HEI distributer and super coil. ZR-1 roll pan, filled tailights. Blazer tank. Hidden hitch. 2 1/2" Flowmaster 40's. Parts bought but not installed>> ford 9" posi with disc. CCP front and rear lowering kit 4/5. Cab corners,foor boards,rockers, cab braces, Phatom grill, Painless wiring kit. |
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02-28-2003, 10:59 AM
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#10 |
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Car Knocker
Join Date: May 2001
Location: jefferson,arkansas
Posts: 664
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back together, although not primed yet
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68 c-10,91 sportside bed,350 .030 over,4 bolt,10-1 comp,2.05 intake/1.94 exhaust,1.6 Harland Sharp roller rockers,edelbrock rpm cam and intake w/750 carb, 700r4, 3.73 gears,Jacabbs Electronic Igntion w/Accel HEI distributer and super coil. ZR-1 roll pan, filled tailights. Blazer tank. Hidden hitch. 2 1/2" Flowmaster 40's. Parts bought but not installed>> ford 9" posi with disc. CCP front and rear lowering kit 4/5. Cab corners,foor boards,rockers, cab braces, Phatom grill, Painless wiring kit. |
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02-28-2003, 11:10 AM
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 8,855
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Here's mine right now. I am using the entire patch on this one. Looks like I need some new cab supports too.
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
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02-28-2003, 02:35 PM
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 952
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I had to rebuild this whole rear cab support piece (shown here upside down relative to its position when installed).
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02-28-2003, 04:34 PM
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#13 |
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Almost Satisfied
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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hobby, do you have any more pics of that? I need to rebuild mine as well and was wondering how you took it out and what you did to the floor above it.
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1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
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02-28-2003, 05:39 PM
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 2,410
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Use what you need. Here are some step by step pics of how I did mine.
http://groups.msn.com/Alsplac/corners.msnw?albumlist=2 Now is a good time to work on rear cab supports if needed. I can't think of any other way to replace rear supports with the corners still on.
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1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first. |
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02-28-2003, 06:12 PM
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Gulfport Ms
Posts: 401
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I replaced mine a few years ago. The aftermarket fit was
so poor that I had to replace the part that was rusted. I managed to find NOS rocker panels and they went in like a breeze. NOS is rare so I guess we are stuck with doner panels (rare on cab corners) and aftermarket. I have some panels that look good for my drivers door. They are from Rolling Steel. I haven't tried them yet. There seems to be a lot of difference in the manufacturing process from original and aftermarket. I guess my question is what is the best source for aftermarket? EdB |
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02-28-2003, 06:26 PM
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#16 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 147
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Do a search
Do a search on Cab corner replacement and alot of good info comes up along with panel replacement.
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Ken Smith 99 C5 Torch Red Coupe 85 Chevy Candy Apple 70 Chevy 1/2 in process.Semi-gloss black powdercoated frame & suspension, disc brakes up front, 3" drop spindle(Beltech) 5 lug 3.73 rearend, ZZ4, Sanderson headers, 700R4, Air Ride system, Summitt 16 gal fuel cell, Holly mech. fuel pump, |
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03-01-2003, 09:53 AM
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#17 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 952
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1971 Stepside, I do have a few more pics of this piece, but I'll have to find them and scan them into the computer. I'll try to find them and do that if you still want to see them. To remove that main piece I had to drill out about 70 or 80 spot welds. The outriggers were almost completely rusted away where they attach to the support piece so I didn't have to fight them in the removal process. I then cut pieces of plate steel slightly heavier than the original and just slowly rebuilt it. At the ends I did use the after market outer cab support pieces and even re-inforced them. I went slow and checked measurements all thru the rebuilding process - took more hours than I care to think about. I've been on this board over a year and have never seen posts from anyone else who has done this. I don't think my cab was rusted worse (I know it wasn't 'cuz I have seen pics here of much worse ones) than most. I just wanted to rebuild as solidly as I can. Hope this helps and if I see a reply I'll get those pics on. One other thing - when reinstalling I used some fairly heavy angle iron pieces to fill in where the outriggers were rusted away. I kind of just had to figure that out by the seat of my pants, but it did come together.
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