1 ton 52's

[74CustomK20]

Anyone ever do the 52" swap on a 1 ton frame? If so what did you do for the rear hanger that goes through the frame? My 1/2 ton frame is shot so figured if I'm gonna start on another frame might as well make it ride and flex good.

[snj8198]

Are you talking about doing a 52" front spring swap? Offroad design or DIY4X as well as others have replacement hangers for the job. I think it's a nice route to go for a stable 4" lift that can handle heavier front loads while riding better as well as flexing offroad.

[1972K20]

I'd like to hear from people that have done this too. I'm curious about the road manners and body roll.

[obijuan]

Had 52s. Went back to 47s. Body roll was small but it is something to talk about. 2" 52s from skyjacker. Stock 52s are softer and roll more. But it's not unpredictable on sharp quick driving. Totally manageable.
Eventually went back to stock length 4" lift springs to push my axle further forward and in result gained back the stability on road. Lost a couple inches of downtravel but worth the approach angle.

Ride quality from tough country ez rides 4" is negligible on my 85 blazer. 396/nv4500/203/205 60/70. It rides bad no matter what.


Back in the day. Flexed and wheeled great. Drove fine.



Procomp 6" way backer in the day.

[1972K20]

So you ran 2" 52s from Skyjacker? Did you run an anti-sway bar?

['68 Newtricks]

Originally Posted by 1972K20

So you ran 2" 52s from Skyjacker? Did you run an anti-sway bar?

Most guys running longer leafs ditch the sway bar, especially when you need to go crossover to fully appreciate the added flex. With crossover, you lose the sway bar unless you custom mount a 3 piece unit in front of the axle.

If you are just looking for a nicer ride.... running longer leafs, stock steering, and a stock sway bar might be the ticket. It's just tough finding the few that have done that for a review.

[74CustomK20]

In all honesty, that is the route I plan on going. It won't really be for flexing or anything, just better road manners. Hitting the roof or back glass every bump Is getting old, And old quick. I was just looking and a lot of the guys take the rear mount where it goes threw the frame, and rotate it down farther, which can't be done on a 1 ton 4x4 frame, which is where the problem lies... was curious if others had a solution. Figured since it was a 1 ton frame, the frame would flex less than a 1/2 or 3/4 ton.

[obijuan]

Moving the front upper shackle hanger works just fine on a 1 ton. You're not changing the location of the spring eye, so it will function as is. You move the hanger forward on the frame and get a longer shackle . Just that improves ride quality a bunch.

If you're looking for softer springs, look into wagoneer front springs. Barely longer and softer.

[74CustomK20]

So I leave the rear mount alone, and I just redo the front one by the body mount for core support?

['68 Newtricks]

Doesn't that move the axle forward? Or just give you horrible approach angle?

Can we get a picture of your current shackle angle? I'll bet if you run some nice 49" springs, you get a softer pack plus a more laid back shackle angle.... which helps with compression and ride quality. Plus, you wont have to move any mounts. Deaver wants ~$800 for a pair. I'm sure Atlas would be cheaper. Call up ORD and see if they can make you want you want.

[BigRed76]

Originally Posted by 74CustomK20

So I leave the rear mount alone, and I just redo the front one by the body mount for core support?

No, I think he is saying move your shackle mount for your front springs, which is the same piece you were originally talking about. I know the 1 ton frames are bigger but moving your shackle mount shouldn't be any different than a 1/2 or 3/4 ton.

I plan on doing the same swap in the future on my 70 for better ride. From everything I've found if you run a sway bar with the 52's it will have great road manners.

[snj8198]

I'd like to know what spring pack and rates you guys are going with. Some say they get the 5 leaf packs and eliminate the over load, some say they find other number leafs and make mods as well. I would like to do this for the on road ride quality as well but my concern is ride height. I don't want 4"s of lift that typically comes with this swap, I only want 2"s. I also need the support for the big block and heavy bumper/winch combo out front without the springs being to stiff.

As for the rear; I would like to do a 56" spring with a shackle flip but again this nets 4"'s (sometimes more) of lift. Any suggestions out back that would yield 2-3"s of lift but maintain ride quality and load hauling capacity?

[BigRed76]

Originally Posted by snj8198

I'd like to know what spring pack and rates you guys are going with. Some say they get the 5 leaf packs and eliminate the over load, some say they find other number leafs and make mods as well. I would like to do this for the on road ride quality as well but my concern is ride height. I don't want 4"s of lift that typically comes with this swap, I only want 2"s. I also need the support for the big block and heavy bumper/winch combo out front without the springs being to stiff.

As for the rear; I would like to do a 56" spring with a shackle flip but again this nets 4"'s (sometimes more) of lift. Any suggestions out back that would yield 2-3"s of lift but maintain ride quality and load hauling capacity?

All of the conversions I've read have used the 5 leaf packs with no overload, and they all say it rides great but needs a sway bar for street manners. I'm sure you could take a 5 leaf pack and get rid of one or two leafs for less ride height, but I'd think that might create too soft of a spring for a big block and any other goodies you want on the front end.

And to my knowledge there is no 4" shackle flip available for 67-72 trucks, just the 2"

[snj8198]

And to my knowledge there is no 4" shackle flip available for 67-72 trucks, just the 2"

it's been a while since i searched it but i think you are right. but, IIRC, switching to 56"ers and the shackle flip netted 6"s lift.. ?? dang it, i'll have to find that info again.

['68 Newtricks]

Running 56s in the rear doesn't add height when compared to running 52s. It's all in the shackle flip.

ORD sells a 2.5" flip.
TNA sells a 0" flip that has some adjustment built in for the longer leafs, then just make or buy the length shackle you need. TNA also sells a nice front frame mount as well, to run newer 63" leafs. Both I've seen on the owners truck, nice pieces.

Running 56s normally require running 6" shackles instead of the stock (what...4") shackles. This barely lifts the truck, if any. My blazer sits just a smig higher in the back compared to my 4" lift spring front.

So, running the 2.5" or 0" flips may require the brackets be set back on the frame more than normal to get a good shackle angle without using stupid long shackles.

4" spring front, zero rate
56s, 4" flip, 6" shackle zero rate
plus 1"BL

[CrewCab59]

Here is a good shot of the B52 hanger .

[nvrenuf]

Originally Posted by CrewCab59

Here is a good shot of the B52 hanger .

Hey, that looks familiar.

[CrewCab59]

Originally Posted by nvrenuf

Hey, that looks familiar.

Thought you might like that

[obijuan]

Here's my spring setup. Tuff country 4" front ez rides. 47".
The biggest help was moving the shackle hanger forward about the one bolt hole. Keeping the front fixed hanger in the stock spot would give you a better shackle angle than mine shown. Takes the shock to the frame out of the suspension.

['63GENIII]

Hopefully this link works. I just did this swap to try and get a better ride and still retain the load carrying capabilities.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...3B+spring+swap

Ride quality is 100 x better with than the stock springs. Running without a sway bar WILL increase the pucker factor exponentially! But the ride... so damn sweet!

[1972K20]

I'm seriously considering doing this when I convert my C30 to 4x4. i want to make sure it will handle right.

[74CustomK20]

I will put the bar back on, and lower the lift from 8" front to the 4" the stock springs give when swapping. My problem originally and realistically is the front, rear spring area. When some people rotate it to compensate for the longer leaves (keep the bottom right hole and droll 3 new bolt holes with a new bushing hole) it works out good. But with the 1 tons, the body mount is RIGHT behind where it is now. I know it's dark but in a bit I'll take some pics. Hoping this can be my winter project...

[74CustomK20]

OK this is my guide,

http://coloradok5.com/52inchspringswap.shtml

and I'm pretty much going to follow what's going on into my 1 ton frame, before I get the suspension, motor, body, etc etc on, so it's easier and we'll hell, it's right there! I get the front, you undo all the rivets and move the L bracket to the other side of the body mount. Check. But included is a pic if the rear, and I have to rotate this down right?

[obijuan]

Look at my pic of my shackle above. That's what you need to do.

[BigRed76]

Originally Posted by obijuan

Look at my pic of my shackle above. That's what you need to do.

But you can't move the shackle frame mount forward with 52" springs, it has to move back.