Lowering ?

[panhead59]

What's best, as in cost and performance, for obtaining a 4/6" drop? Background info- 1968 swb, 350ci, original 3-speed on column ( not hot rodding it- for now) stock rearend. Doing a pretty complete (meaning doing everything but taking the cab completely off the frame, but will replace rubber cab mounts/bushings) restoration but want it lowered. I am doing spindles w/disc brakes and new "power" master clylinder. Obviously not concerned about keeping the stock "look". Will get new wheels with correct backspacing down the road toward end of build. So- most here agree that a c-notch is not absolutely (or at all) nessisary ( where the heck is spell check ?!!!!!). I will most likely go with one of those kits that has ball joints, tie rod ends etc. Plus I might as well go with springs and shocks to complete the front end. So the question seems to boil down to this- 4" drop spindles on front or should I mix/match the spindle drop with a shorter spring ? Just guessing I would say WHY? - Just do the 4" drop spindle, use stock spring and shock and be done with it. Correct logic ,or not ? Thanks for any relies!!!!

[tinydb84]

Necessary*

They don't make 4'' drop spindles. You will need a combo of springs and spindles.

[hewittca]

I'd like to get a set of these 4" drop spindles you speak of. Unfortunately, I don't think anyone makes them. For the '68, you can find model year correct 2.5" spindles, or you can change out your balljoints and tierod ends and put '73-up 3" drop spindles on. Also, there are 1", 2", 3", and 4" springs you can add to get your desired height up front. The 3" and 4" springs will require a little cutting to bumpstops and possibly modifications to the wheel wells when coupled with the drop spindles. For the rear, there's up to a 6" spring. Most people use a 2" drop block first and then add the appropriate spring to get where they want. I've seen some people go up to a 6" drop with no notch, but that's pushing it.

[PGSigns]

2 1/2" spindles, 2" front springs and a set of 5" rear springs, shock relocators for the back, long panhard bar like the ECE super track bar, drop shocks like the beltech street performance shocks. This will allow you to run 15" wheels on the truck if you want.
Jimmy

[71cheyennesuperlongb]

ECE 2 1/2 drop spindles 1 1/2 drop springs from ECE . 1 1/2 drop blocks 3 inch springs shock relocator kit and panhard bar from NO LIMIT and you wont be sorry. This will work great for a daily driver. No bottoming out ; cut your snubbers in half and your good to go!

[71cheyennesuperlongb]

Sorry meant to say 4 in rear springs.

[Kudzupatch]

I don't know the clearances on your truck, but I had a 2" spindles, 2" springs and the front tired scrubbed the fender wells on a hard bump. So I put a 1" spacer (lift) on my springs and went with 2" smaller diameter tires. Same drop and LOTS more clearance. So keep your tire size in mind when working out your drop.

[71cheyennesuperlongb]

On my 71 lwb super I really haft to be pushing it to ever get it to bottom out. I have 15/7 truck ralleys 235/70 15 front 255 /70 rear.

[panhead59]

"Necessary" Got it!!!! Probably won't remember it past today but hey..... Thanks!!!! Obviously it seems like saving all the space you can for suspension travel is the way to go. Using the 3" drop spindle and 1" drop spring saves you another half inch for travel, compared with a 2 1/2 spindle - 1 1/2 spring set up. Would that 1/2" matter that much? Couldn't hurt I guess.

[tinydb84]

I prefer the longest spring you can fit. When you shorten a spring often times you have to increase the spring rate to compensate for the shorter height.

Just FYI 3'' drop spindles might have interference issues with clearance depending on your backspacing.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

What type of investment range are you trying to stay in?

[panhead59]

Of course I am trying to do it as cheap as possible but here's the plan. I've got a 68 swb c/10 that I want to lower, most likely 4/6. 2/4 just doesn't seem low enough by pics I've seen. I want to convert to disc on the front while I am at it and need a new master clyinder w/power booster. I need to either buy axles or find a 5 lug rear. (540-520-3418 if anyone has one) Will need springs, pan bar, shocks and mounts for rear. Not building a show truck, just a nice sunday driver. Not even "hot rodding" it. Not interested in used parts mainly to make sure everything works together and long term dependability. I don't want to ever have to touch this stuff again. ( I'm 60 yrs. old) Front end kits with tie rod ends, ball joints, spindles, spings, etc. look like the way to go. So the cheapest combo,, but not new/junk, will be my investment range. Will buy new wheels when the time comes. Just 15" Craegers most likely, nothing modern looking like big wheels. So wheel choice is also under consideration doing this front end.

[panhead59]

Thanks for all the relies so far. I am learning a lot and I'm sure many others have these same questions.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

I understand completely. I'll attach a link below that Id like you to check out. Its a super nice kit, easy to install and will give you the 4/6 drop you are looking for. Check it out and let me know what you think.
http://www.ridetech.com/store/1963-1...ip-system.html

[panhead59]

Way outta my price range. Not building a show truck. Most ofThese trucks are only worth 15-20 grand when finished, unless you really go over the top. I can't see spending 5 just on suspension. Even if I had it to spend. It's to drive ,not to look at.

[TCCGRIZ]

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