1955 big back window named RUSTY cummins to be......

[bowmans_army]

and i ditched the idea of grafting firewalls and just made my own out of 10G steel will post those pics when i get a chance and it stops raining
when i get home

[bowmans_army]

went out tonight and spent some time got a little farther
here are the pick of what i did last weekend
this is what i started with after cutting this is what i was left with


then i had to make the ac/heater assembly stick out of the firewall to be able to fit under the dash



the i cardboarded the trans tunnel and made the pieces its all 10g




ended up with this the tunnel is off to the passenger side because the motor and tranny in the 88 is like 3 inches over to that side



here is a good pic of how far over it is from normal


and this is how far up the motor sits under the hood


the hood shuts with room for air cleaner and everything


to finalize the firewall i need to make a few smaller plates for all the gaps left and then i wan mount the front of the cab and finish the firewall tunnel it is going to have to be raised at least 3 inches all the way out because right now the shaft rubs bad. I'm happy because besides the 4link in the rear this is the last big fabrication job on this truck then it is all the small stuff which will be nice instead of engineering everything will post more this weekend.

[bowmans_army]

I've got a question what are you guys using to seal all the seams on your cabs what kind of seam sealer i should say i need one that i can paint over after i seal up all my replacement panels

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by bowmans_army

I've got a question what are you guys using to seal all the seams on your cabs what kind of seam sealer i should say i need one that i can paint over after i seal up all my replacement panels

get everything all cleaned up and treat with metal conditioner then prime with epoxy primer then seam sealer/body filler then high build primer k2 or simular block sand and paint.
I am sure I missed somthing.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by bowmans_army

and i ditched the idea of grafting firewalls and just made my own out of 10G steel will post those pics when i get a chance and it stops raining
when i get home

Is 10ga going to be strong enough?
I am just starting on my floor but I only had 18ga sitting around so that it will be. ya know how that goes

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by mknittle

Is 10ga going to be strong enough?
I am just starting on my floor but I only had 18ga sitting around so that it will be. ya know how that goes

I would think 10 gauge is plenty thick. As the gauge number goes down the steel thickness goes up.
Kim

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Kim57

I would think 10 gauge is plenty thick. As the gauge number goes down the steel thickness goes up.
Kim

I know. I was just kidding

[bowmans_army]

ya 10g is extremely thick almost to thick. I'm not talking about body filler and all that stuff the whole body is spot welded from the factory then all the seams are sealed with sealer like caulking a window so they wont rust and you don't have to weld them complete which is overkill. to clarify I'm not talking about paint sealers or priming on any paint related tips just wondering if there was a type you all use if not i will just make and educated guess.

[buggy5872]

I use Lord Fusor (FUS800EZ) adhesive seam sealer. It's the same stuff they use at the factory these days. It does not shrink, sag, or crack. Its not cheap but in my opinion, its worth it. I think it is around 25 bucks a tube.

[bowmans_army]

thanks buggy i was looking at the same one but the price is a little off putting but i want to do it right so thats what im leaning towards

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by bowmans_army

ya 10g is extremely thick almost to thick. I'm not talking about body filler and all that stuff the whole body is spot welded from the factory then all the seams are sealed with sealer like caulking a window so they wont rust and you don't have to weld them complete which is overkill. to clarify I'm not talking about paint sealers or priming on any paint related tips just wondering if there was a type you all use if not i will just make and educated guess.

I mentioned SEAM SEALER that is what you asked about. and I know how a car is welded together as I have ben working on them for 35 years. I was just kidding about the 10ga not being thick enough. 10ga is a tad over 1/8"

[bowmans_army]

i know i was just implicating that i also know what im doing i was just looking for specific brand you guy use i think i like the one from east wood has good reviews and is only 12 dollars a tube.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by bowmans_army

i know i was just implicating that i also know what im doing i was just looking for specific brand you guy use i think i like the one from east wood has good reviews and is only 12 dollars a tube.

I havent used eastwoods but i have had good luck with the other things that I bought from them.

the last tube I used was 3M on my jeep dash about 5 years ago.I used rustolem etching primer first.then put the seam sealer on and smoothed it with a wet finger. it worked good and hasn't shrunk or cracked and the tube was about 10 years old when I used it. got it at the local paint store.

[87Lowrider]

Nice Thread! - It made me get off my butt and get in the garage and work on the '57 today. Inspirational.

Congrats on the xfer to Bragg!

Ken

[bowmans_army]

finished the firewall/trans tunnel here are the pics














and this is the reason for the drive shaft tunnel since i put the body as low on the frame as i could the drive shaft hits the complete bottom of the cab


so other than the little pieces i need to finish on the passenger side it is all done and i am very happy with it looks good and will work great. i will mount the cab and do the front core support and mount the fenders need to get this thing moved into the garage before i leave for a few days to airborne school. It feels good to have that huge part of my project done so i can move on its a great feeling.

[Kim57]

I know how you feel when you get a big part finished. Good luck on the school.
Kim

[bowmans_army]

thanks kim ya it is awesome it looks like i never get anything done on it for all the time that i work on it but now i feel like i can make some headway with this huge modification out of the way.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by bowmans_army

thanks kim ya it is awesome it looks like i never get anything done on it for all the time that i work on it but now i feel like i can make some headway with this huge modification out of the way.

yeah It always feels good to finish one job and move on to the next.looks good.

[bowmans_army]

well made it through airborne school now i can jump out of airplanes for the army im about 30 days out from moving to North Carolina for the rest of my training so im trying to get the 55 completely mounted to the frame need to do the front core support and the bed but first it needs 4 linked so i started that last weekend and here are the pics.

frame after i took the leafs out and the leaf spring brackets







then i cut the frame off for my first idea of what i wanted to do with the back half of the frame only to conclude that im just going to keep it the same so i didnt have to cut it in the first place but cant change it now just drive on



i then started the c notch it looks big but the bottom of it is one inch off the original frame rail all the notch material is 1/4 i got for free from work gotta love my work









here it is with the bed on since the 90 frame goes up in the back and the original does not i am going to have to raise the floor in the bed now by a foot but that will give it a lot more room for a fuel tank and air tanks



you cant really tell in this picture but the pinion is pointing right at a spot about 3 inches up the front bed plate because of the raised motor and tranny so that trans tunnel i built will come into play for the drive shaft



here is were i shortened the bed at turned out great



here are the pics of the truck with the bed on its right at ride hight about 6 inches off the ground









that was all i got done last weekend my wife was sick and i had to watch the baby

so far this week end i built the 4 link that is going in it and man i have to tell you i wonder why i just don't buy things sometimes what a pain it took me a good half a day worth of fabrication to build this thing but it turned out nice everything is 1/4 have it all set up to get installed tomorrow axle frame and brackets all ground and ready to weld thats all my progress as of now need to get this on it own 4 feet so i can move.



the links are 1.5 inch DOM 1/4 inch with cromolly hiems the pan hard is going to be 2 inch DOM 1/4 inch with polyurethane bushings.





all bolts are 5/8 GRADE 8



it is getting welded in not bolted the holes are for extra welds im also going to brace it with some DOM





there will also be a bottom part to the cross member that i will have to measure for when once i have it in



and in case you are wondering the rear end is a simi float 14 bolt 3/4 ton axle it is a C clipped 9.75 i think ring gear 6 lug rated for the light duty 3/4 tons they also come with 8 lugs its a strong axle

[Kim57]

You've made a lot of progress. looking good.
Kim

[bowmans_army]

thanks kim57 i wish i could get it running and driving before the move but i wont have enough time so im shooting for getting the body mounted and steering hooked up

[mknittle]

Looks good.

[bowmans_army]

well got the 4 link and bags on the back about 90 percent done last couple of days, the pan hard bar is not on so the rear isnt perfectly centered and the airbags need bolted on but will be by tomorrow.



i do plan on plating the frame the rest of the way for added strength





here is the crossmember i made turned out nice and strong



the rear part of the frame is not welded on just sitting there until tomorrow took forever to get the truck perfectly level







then moved it into the garage next to its big brother so i can work on it at night and when it rains since its that time of year here



plans are tomorrow install the panhard bar, finish welding all the mounts that are tacked, finish rear of frame, mount the bed to the frame, bolt the air bags on they are just sitting there right now, weld in the bed supports in the new raised position, paint the rear frame and throw a piece of plywood for right now over the bed for the trip to its new home.

[GMCNUT]

OMG - if anyone reading this needs help finding a truck like this that can be had for the 400.00 range needing equal to possibly less work, let me know. I just returned from the deep woods of NW Georgia where a guy has about 15 of these 55-59 GMC's, a couple 47-53's, a 55 Chevy Panel and a 59 Chevy Apache all down in the woods and all have been sitting there rotting forever and he is going to start pulling and crushing them this fall when it gets cooler. He sent me links to shots of them - cool trucks for parts or to build as a rat rod etc for just over scrap value. I agreed to buy two 58 GMC's and one has the 336 Pontiac V8 in it....most of them are no engine no trans but a few have 270 6's in them (GMC's) and not sure what was in the two Chevy's. PM if interested - these are in and must be retrieved from NW Georgia so if you are too far away don't think you can send transport - these are in the woods - you have to come fish them out yourself although he will help with his tractor....

[Kim57]

Looks like you're making good progress on it.
Kim