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Old 05-10-2005, 10:00 PM   #51
Rollie396
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nice work 1low1967!I love all the round tubing.
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'72 C-10 Proud owner of a million new and used pieces that used to be and will once again be(god willing) a testament to the term "they don't build em like that anymore.
'80 LWB 2wd beater
'67 GMC long fleet (cab donor)
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Old 05-10-2005, 10:33 PM   #52
DM310
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well I did not think I was going to get around to it till this weekend but when I got home I decided to start Z'ing the frame 2" here are some pics. Now I know I still need to plate it in and all but not bad for 30 min job. I will finish it off this weekend
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles

Last edited by DM310; 05-10-2005 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 05-11-2005, 07:34 AM   #53
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pictures look good jordan!! lets throw the cab on and drive it around we can put my motor in until yours is done lol!!!!
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Old 05-11-2005, 07:47 AM   #54
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Soon enough it will be railn like the taco used to...I miss that truck but this one will be better
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Old 05-11-2005, 07:35 PM   #55
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just fyi for anyone thinking about doing this, it was pretty easy so far. The only thing I had removed were the frenders. Engine and trans were still installed (292 3 speed). I did not have to do anything to the trans tunnel w/ the 2" Z. Now if you have a 3 speed w/ shift on the column like I do you may run into some probs. I am not going to worry about it b/c I am putting in a turbo 350 trans. But if I did decided to keep it I would have to mod the clutch linkage and shift rods. I think if I went any more than 2" and wanted to keep that trans, you could not use the shift on the column. You would have to put the shifter on the floor. You would still be able to use the clutch w/ some mods. Hope this info helps
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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Old 05-12-2005, 01:40 PM   #56
bagged69c10
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I have a 350 with a turbo 400 auto. on the floor, do you think I will have to mod. my tunnel?
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1969 c-10, bagged, Zd, 20" Boyds SOLD!
1964 Suburban COMING SOON Build threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=304726
1965 c-10 long bed
1993 Sierra x-cab
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Old 05-12-2005, 02:57 PM   #57
loweredd
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Depending on how much of a Z you do; I had to with a 4 inch Z
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:47 AM   #58
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i z-ed mine 4" like loweredd, and ive got a 327 with a 700r4 all moved ahead 3" for dizzy clearance on the firewall, and i had to mod mine. Something neat though, a 92 buick roadmaster wagon driveshaft fit perfect with a different rear u-joint. And, the 12" tailshaft shifter from lokar fits great too.
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Old 05-17-2005, 12:07 PM   #59
bagged69c10
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Is a 4 inch Z really neccesary? That seems kinda extreme.
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1969 c-10, bagged, Zd, 20" Boyds SOLD!
1964 Suburban COMING SOON Build threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=304726
1965 c-10 long bed
1993 Sierra x-cab
1999 tahoe-4/5 on 22s
2005 Chevy work truck
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Old 05-17-2005, 12:08 PM   #60
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I needed it with the tire size I was running.
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Old 05-17-2005, 01:38 PM   #61
bagged69c10
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This may be a little off topic but how hard was it to install your york compressor, and how much did it cost?
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1969 c-10, bagged, Zd, 20" Boyds SOLD!
1964 Suburban COMING SOON Build threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=304726
1965 c-10 long bed
1993 Sierra x-cab
1999 tahoe-4/5 on 22s
2005 Chevy work truck
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Old 05-19-2005, 01:44 AM   #62
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how much should i z it for 22's?
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Old 05-19-2005, 10:58 PM   #63
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What tire size are you running?I just set mine up for 265/35/22 and it lays rocker.I would post a pic but don't know how.
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Old 05-20-2005, 01:43 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFabShop
What tire size are you running?I just set mine up for 265/35/22 and it lays rocker.I would post a pic but don't know how.
same size tire as you....i dont know how to post pics either but how much did you have to z yours to lay?
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Old 05-20-2005, 01:49 PM   #65
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To post a pic click on POSt REPLY.....not post quick reply. Then go click on manage attachments.... from there it should be self explainatory.
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Old 05-21-2005, 05:13 PM   #66
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I have a 3.5" z.I still can't figure out the posting part 68 I am kind of a dumbass at computer things.I will post a link to my SSM profile there are pics in there.http://www.streetsourcemag.com/im/vi...?id=TheFabShop
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Old 05-21-2005, 08:17 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFabShop
I have a 3.5" z.I still can't figure out the posting part 68 I am kind of a dumbass at computer things.I will post a link to my SSM profile there are pics in there.http://www.streetsourcemag.com/im/vi...?id=TheFabShop
That country squire is smooth.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 05-21-2005, 09:26 PM   #68
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The blonde with the orange visor... and not much else... is also pretty smooth.
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Old 05-21-2005, 10:04 PM   #69
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Am I the only one that doesn't understand how that z was done with the engine still in?
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Old 05-21-2005, 11:42 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaird
Am I the only one that doesn't understand how that z was done with the engine still in?
I wouldn't attempt it . . .... but there's alot of stuff I wouldn't attempt that others don't think twice about.

I guess if you measure & square everything it can work out ok.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 05-22-2005 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 05-22-2005, 12:15 AM   #71
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I had the engine pulled.It isn't that hard to get them out of these trucks.
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Old 05-22-2005, 07:13 PM   #72
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Are you talking about me w/the pics above that show the z? Yes I did still have the engine in it. It wasn't that hard to do. Tell me what would be the difference if I had it out? The only thing I can think of is to gain better access to the inside of the frame but thats about it. There is nothing wrong w/ keeping it in unless its in your way.
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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Old 05-22-2005, 08:11 PM   #73
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i'm not saying there is anything wrong with it. I just cant comphrehend how you did, but you did, so all the more power to ya.
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Old 05-22-2005, 08:23 PM   #74
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actually could you elaborate on how you dit it with the engine in? im going to be attempting this very soon i need more drop! thanks -kyle
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Old 05-22-2005, 08:23 PM   #75
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well its a lot easier that I have a inline 6 in there. If you have a v8 then you might have to remove it. thanks
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66 C10 (under construction)
1.5" crossmember drop
2" Z'ed frame
8" rear notch
Watts-link
Bagged
DJM 3" spindles
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