Need an experts opinion !!

[72longstepper]

Getting ready to fix the typical rusted out door bottom and have drilled out the bottom spot welds. Most of the damage is at the bottom as pictured. Was thinking of cutting out at the bottom of the "raised hump" area at the bottom but was wondering about the grinding etc. at what would be a valley. I have never welded before and bought a Mig welder and using 023 or 025 wire.

[mongocanfly]

im not a expert but have done my share of rust repair and body panel welding...
do your self a favor...dont try to learn how to weld on that.....
1st learn how to weld before attemping body panel welding
then get yourself some old body panels from a body shop to practice on
and those door panels will not be a easy fix even for a experienced fixer upper...itll take some skills to do it right...
i think youll be money ahead finding some better doors

[nsb29]

I made my door bottoms but I believe you can buy them looking at what you have makes me wonder what the outside skin is like and as said don’t learn how to weld on those doors

[72longstepper]

Yes I bought new inside door bottoms and I will get some crash panels and practice before trying to repair doors. TY for your input. Outside skins are not bad. Just one patch needed along with some touch up.

[mongocanfly]

Get a copper backer to use when welding the thin stuff...itll help alot..just do spot welds and move around when you weld trying not to overheat the panel...itll be tuff to hammer and dolley that ...make sure your seams are nice and tight

[1971Stepside]

I've done an extensive amount of welding on body panels. No expert by any means, but I attempted a lower inner and outer door repair and ended up buying a new door. Not an easy place to start.

[72longstepper]

Have cut out both doors just under the bottom raised section and will hopefully get some crash panels soon to start practicing my welding "skills". Wish me luck.

[LH Lead-Foot]

With you smaller wire size, it will allow you to weld the door and patch. If you are not buying a patch panel, make sure you find the same gauge metal for the repair. Make extensive use of patterns to re-create the curves and steps down to the skins pinch weld fold. A photo with measurements helps, but for a pattern, I use a roll of cheap "Red Rosin" paper for use under hardwood floors. It cuts, feels and lays like a construction paper. I use it for sewing seats too.

The problem you may run into, is the front door skin almost touches and will have bad rust inside on it as well. So get a light inside, look around and make a choice that works for you.
The "Copper Backer" is an excellent idea if you are getting burn-thru during the weld.
My advice, like other is practice. Have a hand on the wire speed will help a bunch. I you can get a helper, try small changes in different speeds once the heat is dialed in. Slower, too high and less penetration. Too fast and you won't get the time to move side to side for good overlap.
Change heat as needed to get good max penetration without burn-thru. Make sure you have good gas flow and 75% / 25% (125 Cu Ft) for mild steel is best. Less gas flow if indoors out of the wind. I use a box fan for fumes, but in-direct flow and use my glove to shield the weld. I have never used other MIG's, but once mine is dial in, it has very little splatter and just hums while welding.

HF sells a pneumatic flange tool that can create ledge for parts to fit into flush. the other side has a punch to create plug welds to tack down once getting started. The head of this tool can be moved away from the air handle if you get into a bad location. This flange will not work everywhere and should not be used in certain spots, if you choose to use it. Just handy to have for patches as butt weld are harder and having a shelf.

My MIG is 155 Amps and new in 1984. It is a commercial type and holds 30lb. spools. I have run a lot of wire thru it and not made for sheet metal, but I have to drop down to 0.030 wire to reduce heat, but I have to use a copper backer. I had to make an adaptor for smaller rolls. Tip: When not in use, place you spool of used wire into a zip-lock bag and one of small bags of "Do Not Eat" desiccant in the bag to keep from rusting over time.

You definitely picked a hard place to start, but practice, practice, practice.
Best of luck! ASE Master since 1978