67-72 rear axle widths

[68GMCCustom]

If this has be post somewhere, I guess I can't find it.

I'm looking at some new late model rear axles and nned to verify the width of what I got w/o pulling it apart. I understand there were two different rear axle widths, basically early and late. What are those widths? Are 1/2ton and 3/4ton late model truck and van rear axles considerably wider or could they be used? I realize I'd need to change the axles to get the right bolt pattern.

An ebay dealer has some new late model GM, Ford and Dodge axles w/brakes as well as rebuilt. I want to have a tough rear end to handle slicks at the track with 450-500hp, and still get me back home. I'm building an LS powered truck and plan on having some torque with a tough tranny, trying to twist the driveshaft and rear axle into breakage. Was thinking GM 9.5" 14 bolt or a Dana 60?

an example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[ERASER5]

The 70 1/2 and earlier width is 62-3/8" from wheel mount to wheel mount.
The 70 1/2 and later (up to about 78 or so) width is 63-3/4" from wheel mount to wheel mount.

1/2 ton was the same width as the 3/4 ton. A GM12 bolt is a tough setup. A D60 6 lug semi float is bigger and stronger, but it seams the axle shafts are more brittle. New axles would fix that.

The rear end shown in the link is a 6 lug. The bolt patten will be the same as your original 68 lugs, but the lugs are metric and a bit bigger. I would bet a chicken dinner that Dorman has a lug that would replace the metric lug with an SAE 7/16" lug. I cannot advise on the width of the newer rears, but backspacing and/or spacers, you should be able to make it work. The price seems good considering the brake parts you will be getting.

Good luck

[68 TT]

What rear end is in your truck now and how much does the truck weigh? What rear suspension is in your truck?

No point in putting a heavier rear axle into it than you need and slowing the truck down in the process.

Chances are the stock 67-72 truck 12-bolt with a set of good axles, big bearing housing ends with press-on bearings and a spool (or good clutch type posi if you street drive it too) will take more power than you are making. It will lose less power to the wheels due to pinion location vs. a 9" and will weigh less too. The Dana 60 is overkill and weighs a ton more.

I know a 3200 pound car that has been running high eight second quarter miles for years with a car 12-bolt so it can take quite a bit of power. With the truck 12-bolt the smaller pinion diameter will be your limiting point but not too limiting. I would bet it can take 3/4 of what a car 12-bolt can due to it. If you have about a 4000 pound truck and 800 hp or less it should be OK.

[68GMCCustom]

I have a 12 bolt truck rear end that has already been rebuilt w/3.73 posi but since it had a spun race that had to be addressed I'm not sure I'd trust it with the horsepower that my genIV 6.0L will be making with stickies at the track...

here's another example, he has a bunch:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/07-08...Q5fAccessories

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I have a 12 bolt truck rear end that has already been rebuilt w/3.73 posi but since it had a spun race that had to be addressed I'm not sure I'd trust it with the horsepower that my genIV 6.0L will be making with stickies at the track...

Did it spin a race on the carrier or the housing?

Do you have the truck arm suspension or leaf?

[68GMCCustom]

I want to say the carrier. The guy at the counter at the place that rebuilt it told me they had to use "axle saver bearings" or something like that. I figured either the guy didn't know what he was talking about or I was getting back a "weak" rear end. Its got probably 5-6k miles on it and chirps 2nd just fine. I'm just not sure I want to try it with a new LS motor and tranny with a higher stall convertor, then add slicks or at least drag radials at the track.

Its a coil now on this '72 chassis. The old '68 chassis was leaf.

[Captainfab]

The "axle saver bearings" are wheel bearings that are used when the bearing surface on the axles are worn. This should have no effect on your housing at all. A new set of axles would eliminate the need for those bearings.

The differential widths I have are close to what ERASER5 posted. The '63-'early '70 are 62 1/8" wms to wms. The late '70-'87's are 63 1/2"

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I want to say the carrier. The guy at the counter at the place that rebuilt it told me they had to use "axle saver bearings" or something like that. I figured either the guy didn't know what he was talking about or I was getting back a "weak" rear end. Its got probably 5-6k miles on it and chirps 2nd just fine. I'm just not sure I want to try it with a new LS motor and tranny with a higher stall convertor, then add slicks or at least drag radials at the track.

Its a coil now on this '72 chassis. The old '68 chassis was leaf.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I want to say the carrier. The guy at the counter at the place that rebuilt it told me they had to use "axle saver bearings" or something like that. I figured either the guy didn't know what he was talking about or I was getting back a "weak" rear end. Its got probably 5-6k miles on it and chirps 2nd just fine. I'm just not sure I want to try it with a new LS motor and tranny with a higher stall convertor, then add slicks or at least drag radials at the track.

Its a coil now on this '72 chassis. The old '68 chassis was leaf.

To add to what Captainfab said: You don't want C-clip axles in there at all if you are going to go drag racing with sticky tires plus I believe if you run slicks they require aftermarket axles anyway.

There are two options for you. Big bearing housing ends installed onto your housing that will allow the use of press-on axle bearings & retainer plates or install a set of C-clip eliminators.

Most C-clip eliminators have ball bearings for minimal friction so they won't work well on the street but you can find some designed for circle track and street use that have tapered roller bearings. I know Strange makes a set.

I would go with the Strange small GM big bearing housing ends and a set of their axles suited for how much street and track time this truck will see.

Package P1008 will get you the axles, bearings, retainer plates and wheel studs if this is primarily a drag vehicle.

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/081.html

H1143 is the small GM housing end that fits the big bearings.

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/090.html

I have used these several times and was very happy with the products.

If you run drag radials and spend most of the time on the street you can use stock axles with the C-clip eliminator kit but I would recommend aftermarket axles either way you go, especially since yours has worn out wheel bearing surfaces.

A1100 is the part number you want.

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/082.html

Street axles are a different creature than drag race axles so go with the S/S series of axles.

http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/005.html

[68GMCCustom]

Thanks for all the great info. I got a Strange catalog a month or so ago and have been looking through it. The truck will be a weekend show/cruiser with regular trips to the track for fun. I want to drive it home w/o worrying about breakage (which I know happens anyway).

[Glenn53]

Will my 67 C10 fit on my 16 ft trailer dual axle?

[GASoline71]

7 year old thread that really has nothing to do with how a truck will fit on a trailer. If you asked this question in the open 67-72 truck forum it would get more looks and a better answer.

I know it's your first post... but it sounds like a tape measure would solve the problem. Just measure the truck width and then the trailer bed width. No idea of knowing what kind of trailer you have without more info.

Gary

[phat69]

Just to be clear, when y'all say wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface you do mean from the face of the drums correct?

[Captainfab]

That is correct.

Originally Posted by phat69

Just to be clear, when y'all say wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface you do mean from the face of the drums correct?

[joeydirt]

Does anyone have the width from flange to flange for the purpose of identifying one that does not have the brakes attached?

[Captainfab]

The axle flange to axle flange dimension will only be about 3/16"-1/4" less than the given measurements

Originally Posted by joeydirt

Does anyone have the width from flange to flange for the purpose of identifying one that does not have the brakes attached?