L31 assembled w/out crank stator?!?!!!

[63frankintruck]

I installed a Ramjet cam in my L31. When it came time to reinstall the timing cover, I pulled the stator from the crank.see pic

(i figured it was not needed because I'm not using a computer to control the motor - soooo no need for a stator. RIGHT??)
Now my buddy at work told me that the stator was probably used to put pressure on the cam gear at the crank. Arg...
My question- Do I need to tear this down and reinstall the stator?
Thanks in advance for any help.

[B. W.]

Yes, needs to be in there. Someone may make an aftermarket spacer? Never looked in to that.

[truckster]

I believe you can just run a standard SBC balancer and be fine. The Vortec balancer is shorter to allow room for the reluctor.

[Captainfab]

If you are using the L31 balancer, that reluctor ring, or an equivelent thickness spacer must be between the balancer hub and the timing chain gear. Without it, your pulleys will not line up. Also I'm not sure if it will positiion the seal on the balancer hub to an area where it could leak?

[Tom]

I ran a vortec pullout in my 79 and removed the reluctor ring as I ran carb. I also changed the timing cover to a standerd small block metal cover. I don't remember ever using a spacer to make up for the reluctor ring. Perhaps I used a standerd balancer.....

[63frankintruck]

thanks guys for all the feedback, I got off work today early so I decided to go ahead and remove balancer, water pump, and timing cover.
Stator is now back in place.

Anything I should be aware of now before I seal this thing back up?

[87Skier]

Originally Posted by 63frankintruck

thanks guys for all the feedback, I got off work today early so I decided to go ahead and remove balancer, water pump, and timing cover.
Stator is now back in place.

Anything I should be aware of now before I seal this thing back up?

I did the same thing...

The worst part is that you have to drop the pan at least an inch to get the cover back in place.

I would say make sure you seal those corners (where block, pan and timing cover meet), and I've heard of people using rtv all along the bottom lip of the timing cover. Mine leaks but I only did the corners, next time I'm putting rtv along the bottom as well.

['63GENIII]

Did you replace the timing chain when you installed the cam? If so, which kind did you use? Reason I ask is that I found that there were 2 different timing chains for the Vortec that I just built. One was for use with a reluctor and one for without. Difference was 1/4" thicker for use without reluctor. Same balancer used in both applications.

Had I used the wrong timing set (which I ended up returning), the balancer would have stuck out 1/4" if I were able to get the cover on. Never tried to install it. Just happened to notice the difference between the old and the new one when they were both sitting on the work bench together. Otherwise would have never known.

[63frankintruck]

Can someone verify where the timing marks are supposed to be ( the cam mark in relation to the crank mark) before I button this thing up?
by the way-
I did not change the chain ( all original equipment)
and I will be using a bead of high temp silicone for me gasket to pan.

[James the III]

A buddy asked me what the crank bolt size and thread pitch was on the vortec..And I wasn't 100% sure..
any idea

[63frankintruck]

Originally Posted by James the III

A buddy asked me what the crank bolt size and thread pitch was on the vortec..And I wasn't 100% sure..
any idea

looks like 7/16 x 20

[63frankintruck]

anybody on the timing marks?

['63GENIII]

Should be pointing directly at each other if stock. Only time it might be different is if you have a set that is keyed for advance or retard of the cam. If its a stock set, point them at each other.

[fleetsidelarry]

I've never read anything to suggest anything different than what we're used to on a GEN I small block. with #1 at TDC (of course) you can install the sprockets at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock (dot-to-dot) or 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock. remember dot-to-dot is firing #6 cylinder, the other is firing #1. can make a difference when setting valves

[63frankintruck]

Originally Posted by fleetsidelarry

I've never read anything to suggest anything different than what we're used to on a GEN I small block. with #1 at TDC (of course) you can install the sprockets at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock (dot-to-dot) or 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock. remember dot-to-dot is firing #6 cylinder, the other is firing #1. can make a difference when setting valves

confused.... With #1 on compression stroke (TDC) is it dot to dot 6 o'clock and 12 o'clock or 12 o'clock and 12 o'clock
It can not be both can it?

[Bigdav160]

dot to dot is compression stroke #6

Cam and crank at 12 o'clock is #1 on compression.

[fleetsidelarry]

Bigdav did a better job of explaining than I did, sorry. if you start out adjusting your valves thinking that, because the damper and the timing tab show you're at TDC, you're good to adjust #1 cylinder, you may be wrong. I keep this saved to my favorites:

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...?post/2071722/