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Old 09-23-2018, 07:16 AM   #51
Myoldtruck
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Re: gauge cluster rebuild/restoration

Here is what I did with my gauges. I installed new auto meter 2 1/16" gauges in the lower 4 spots. Replaced the amp gauge with a voltage gauge and installed a vacume gauge. Installed a late 1980s mercedes dash clock.

On the autometer gauges, I removed there name off of the face of the gauge, its only a sticker. Repainted the needles to orange. Removed their factory glass and installed behind the factory dash glass bezels. Looks stock and works very well.
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Old 09-23-2018, 08:43 AM   #52
68 TT
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Re: gauge cluster rebuild/restoration

Quote:
Originally Posted by darrellyates View Post
I used the new Dakota Digital VHX gauge package. Modern, but with needles.
I was considering those as well so I could run the 4L80E without an expensive cable speedo conversion tail housing or cable-x type speedo drive box. Doesn't hurt that I have them in my Camaro already too

They aren't just gauges either. They have performance monitoring features too like 0-60 time, 1/8-mile time and MPH, 1/4-mile time and MPH, top speed recall and highest RPM recall. It also has an adjustable mileage countdown timer for service so you can set it for when an oil change is due or anything else you want or you can do like I do and use the resettable hour meter to monitor how long since the last oil change. It even has an adjustable RPM shift output to connect to an external shift light.
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Old 09-23-2018, 04:45 PM   #53
plastercracker
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Re: gauge cluster rebuild/restoration

like that clock. looks good
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Old 09-23-2018, 05:37 PM   #54
chevysonly
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Re: gauge cluster rebuild/restoration

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coley View Post
I have a set of instructions on how to fully, quickly remove the dash and/or re-install it that is in pdf form if any members are ever interested in taking this on.
It outlines the preferred tools required and probable time each step by step event should take as well as what not to do.
I think the first time I tried this it took me a couple of hours and a bucket of sweat to finally get the thing out.
Now, it's out and on the bench in about 10-15 minutes.
All of that said tho'...TBone does very nice work so you should get some good info and response from him on these dashes.

All Good
Coley
I'd like that link to instructions on cluster removal, please!
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Old 09-23-2018, 11:30 PM   #55
lutronjim
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Dunwoody,Ga
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Re: gauge cluster rebuild/restoration

Didn't have much time. Table were converted to text hopefully OK

1967-'72 Dash removal and Tach Dash Installation Instructions
Rev 8
Tools required
1 Small slotted screwdriver (1/8" or equivalent) removal
2 3/8" Ratcheting (Socket) Driver removal
3 3" lg (3/8") socket extension or 1/2" 'Deep' socket removal
4 1/2" socket (3/8" drive w/ 6pt. or 12 pt.)or 1/2" 'Deep' socket removal
5 Small phillips screwdriver removal
6 Medium/Large phillips screwdriver Helpful removal
7 5/16" (small) combination wrench Needed removal
8 1/2" combination wrench Needed removal
9 Mid size needle nose pliers Helpful removal
10 Flashlight or 'camping headlamp' Helpful removal
11 1/4" Hand Socket Driver Helpful or1/4" combination wrench
disassembly
12 5/16" Hand Socket Driver Helpful 5/16" combination wrench
disassembly
13 Patience and consistently clean hands Needed

ALL READ THIS FIRST: General Initial Comments & Guidelines a Patiently following these instructions will allow removal of the existing dash/gauge system within 20-25 minutes...as fully assembled/removed, complete and 'on the bench'. Read all instructions before beginning b Patiently following the re-installation instructions will allow complete installation of the new tach dash
in approximately 30-45 minutes. c Prepare a clean flat workspot with a smooth/soft cloth or towel to rest the dash system down on
upon removal. (ideally well lit workshop bench or equivalent). d If re-installation includes a 'new' dash bezel then be prepared to wash/clean your hands at least once or
twice during the removal and installation process to minimize scratching of the bezel front. e Be prepared to spend a few minutes under the dash on your back on the floor of the truck while you
patiently work on some of underdash assembly & dis-assembly requirements. f Handle the dash/gauge cluster carefully to ensure no damage to the vulnerable back printed circuit
\
RECOMMENDATION: It is highly recommended that you quickly 'field' test your tachometer on your engine prior to undergoing a full installation process. (3) individual wires are required & alligator clips facilitate this: As follows:
-Hook up (1) wire to the (+) terminal on the back of the tach directly to a 'hot/power' wire on the vehicle. -Hook up (1) wire from the (-) terminal on the back of the tach to the - terminal on the coil. -Hook up a simple ground wire to the tachometers metal housing directly to the vehicle chassis. Ensure all connections are tight. Start your vehicle and ensure the tach 'runs up' correctly. .....ok, here we go..... Specific Instructions- (existing) Dash System: REMOVAL time

1 Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery using the 1/2" combination wrench (or equivalent) 2 min.

2 Reach up under the dash with your right arm and find the back....and then top of the light switch assembly. 30 sec

3 Locate the spring loaded 'button' on the top of the light switch assembly and depress it down. 30 sec

4 Pull the light switch out with your left hand while continuing to depress the light switch button with your right hand. With some jiggling the light switch stem should come out. Set the switch aside (top of dash) 1 min.

5 Insert the small slotted screwdriver into the small set screw on the bottom of the windshield washer knob and loosen (do not remove) the set screw. Then, remove the the wiper/washer knob, set aside 1 min.

6 Loosen/undo and spin out both light and windshield wiper switch round chrome bezels and set aside. 2 min.

7 Using the small 5/16" wrench loosen off the oil line fitting located just behind the oil pressure gauge under the dash. (note: you will probably have to lay under the dash looking upwards to do this) 3 min.

8 Carefully (slowly) reach up behind the left hand (drivers) side of the dash cluster and locate the speedometer cable. Unscrew it from the back of the speedometer housing and carefully pull it out and leave it free 1 min.

9 Very carefully reach up behind the (drivers) right side of the dash cluster and locate the dash unit's main plug-in electrical harness. (Note: It is approx. 1-1/2"lg. and is held into the back of the dash cluster with 2 compressible side tabs) 2 min.

10 Compress the (2) side tabs of the cluster harness connector and carefully pull and 'jiggle' it free of back of the dash cluster unit and push it aside. Be careful not to overpull or you might compromise the printed circuit 30 sec.

11 Locate and remove the (2) large phillips screws located directly under the steering column that are holding the lower column cover plate in place & then remove and set the cover & screws aside 1 min.

12 Pull the rubber 'column to dash' cluster boot up the column until it contacts the main/upper body housing 30 sec.

13 Locate the (2) 5/16"NC angled hex bolts holding the steering column up in place from below and install the 1/2" socket w/ extension and driver on them and loosen them fully one at a time. (Note: the bolts should be turned out almost completely or at least leave (1) bolt partially intact. However if you decide to fully remove them thus allowing the column to pull down complete, reinstallation is not difficult 3 min.

14 Carefully pull the steering column down until it bottoms on the loosened support bracket. (as ,mentioned above: the further the column comes down the easier the gauge cluster can be installed)

15 Locate and remove the (6) front/outer phillips trim screws that hold the front bezel tight to the main dash metal 2 min.
DISCONNECTION PROCESS COMPLETED- ready to remove Max Time: 20 min.

The Dash/Gauge cluster should now be free and clear to (carefully) pull out and (fully) remove from the dash area. Carefully, pull..move and test that it is free for removal. 1-5 min
- Place the dash/gauge cluster face down on a very soft, clean surface ready for disassembly.
(Use a cotton towel, shirt or equivalent) - The 1/4" & 5/16" hand socket drivers are used for bench disassembly of the dash/cluster unit in order
to replace or remove gauges and/or the printed circuit unit.

Specific Instructions- Tach Dash/Gauge Cluster:
INSTALLATION
Assumption 1: the (new) gauge cluster is fully bench assembled
Assumption 2: Your hands, prior to the following activity, are very clean Assumption 3: The dash/opening is ready with the steering column all (or near) the way down and clear.
Assumption 4: All aforementioned tools are ready for use in the truck's cab/dash area.
1 Carefully tilt and insert the lower part of the (new) gauge cluster into the lower opening of the dash area

2 Using the small slotted screwdriver as a sliding 'shoe horn' or top assisting guide, slowly tilt the gauge
cluster inwards being VERY careful to ensure the printed circuit does NOT grab, scrape or catch any dash metal work or the dash pad as it positioned up into place. WARNING: Do not FORCE the printed circuit past/through obstructions!! It is delicate. Important Note: At this point it may be possible to plug-in the back harness through the remaining gap available with the gauge cluster started in position. As well, it may be possible to 'start' the speedometer cable into the speedometer housing and plug the tach harness connections onto the back of the tach. Do not attempt to install or tighten the oil line at this point.

3 With the gauge cluster in its 'loose' correct position & in place, install (2) of the front mount phillips screws
loosely!! .......to hold the new gauge cluster temporarily in place.

4 Lift the steering column up into place and slide the rubber boot down the column until it gently contacts
the new gauge cluster.

5 Re-install the (2) 5/16" steering column support bolts. You will probably have to do this from below
while laying on your back. Take your time, start them one at a time and do them up equally & snug.

6 Carefully reach up behind the right side of the new gauge cluster and locate the (loose) main
plug-in' harness/connector & VERY carefully plug into the back of the new cluster. Note 1: the harness/connector probably is very close to being in position and at the right angle for reinstallation. Be patient, don't force it and it should re-install and plug-in successfully. Note 2: Some people have had luck plugging it in during the installation/tilting procedure of the new gauge cluster. (see initial 'important note')

7 Reach up behind the left side of the gauge cluster and locate the speedometer cable and carefully install it into the back of the speedometer housing and hand tighten snug (no wrenches or pliers!!).

8 Reach up behind the centre of the gauge unit and locate the tach plug-in connectors and carefully
install onto the back of the tach's (2) plug-ins. Make special note of which tabs are for which function ie: 1 is for the power (+) and the other goes to the signal (- post on the the coil). Note 1: refer to 'important note' above regarding possible early 'start' insertion of tach plug-in

9 Reach up behind the lower right side of the new gauge cluster and locate the oil line and hand thread
and 'start' the fitting in by hand. Then use the 5/16" to tighten and 'snug' the fitting up.

10 Finish installing the remaining (4) front bezel phillips screws....loosely NOT Tight!!!!

11 Re-install the bottom column cover with the (2) larger phillips screws and tighten/snug into place.

12 Locate and re-install both the windshield wiper and light switch round chrome bezel and 'snug-up'.

13 Using the previous left & right hand method (mentioned above) push in and install the light switch.

14 Locate and install the windshield wiper button and tighten the bottom, small slotted screw.

15 Carefully snug up the (6) outer bezel screws...DO NOT Overtighten or you will crack the bezel!!!

16 Locate the tach harness wiring under the dash and feed the brown 'signal' (-) wire through the firewall
up near the main fuse/terminal box.

17 Locate the (-) negative terminal on the 'coil' located near the distributor on the back of the engine.

18 Install the (tach) signal wire onto the small negative post connection on the coil and tighten.
(note: ensure that the other ignition connectors attached to the same 'post' remain connected when finished)

19 Locate a ignition switch 'hot' or 'positive' connection under the dash near or at the main fuse box.
(note: test with a test light or electrical tester to ensure you get a 'hot' signal)

20 Connect the positive (+) power/red wire from the tach/harness to these (above) hot/positive connection.

21 Check all previous connections listed in the instructions and ensure they are now all intact, complete
and finished.

22 Re-connect the main battery connection and you are ready to go. 23 The truck should now successfully start and show a full functioning tach and dash/gauge
system.

TROUBLESHOOTING:
1 If the gas gauge, ammeter or temperature gauge do not show a 'normal' function:
Check the main back harness plug-in connection for full and proper insertion and connection.

2 If the speedometer does not work or runs in a 'jumpy' way:
Check and re-install the speedometer cable and make sure it is fully and correctly inserted into the back of the speedometer head.

3 If there signs of oil dripping from the lower right side of the gauge cluster:
Check and tighten/re-tighten the oil line fitting up fully and re-test.

4 If the tachometer does not show 'rev function':
Check the back upper harness connection onto the tach and make sure it is fully/correctly 'seated'. or Check the positive tach harness wire with an electrical tester to ensure power is being supplied or Check the brown/signal (-) wire to ensure it is fully and properly mounted onto the correct coil connection.
Notes:
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:30 AM   #56
chevysonly
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Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 11
Re: gauge cluster rebuild/restoration

Wow! That is very detailed. Thank you.
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