Original suspension worn out, how to tell?

[GM man]

I've posted several times about how crappy my Jimmy rides, looking for some miracle cures and to this point the consensus has been to put softer leaf springs on it but that would require at least a 4" lift on it and it would ride like a Cadillac. I've also been told I could accomplish the same thing but only do a 2" lift from rough country. But I really don't want to put a lift on my truck and now I've had a fella ask me if I just replaced my leaf springs if that would correct the way my rig rides. Well, I've never really thought about that for some reason, but it makes sense, especially since many of ya'll have told me that ya'lls truck rides good with your factory set up. I just need to know, before I order new springs using the factory height if there is a way to tell if my springs are just worn out and if replacing my factory stuff with new springs, etc.. would improve the way my truck rides. Any suggestions or recommendations are welcome.

[hemi43]

When you say "crappy ride" are you talking about how stiff the truck rides or how the truck handles going down the road? If you want a good handling truck, don't lift it. Stick with factory ride height. As far stiffness of the suspension, shocks play a bigger role than springs. If you truck is sitting level right now, try putting on a good set of shocks first before replacing the springs. I'm running Rancho 5000's in my truck and can't get over how well it goes down the road.

[GM man]

Well that's a tough one to explain. It's a rough ride for sure, which makes you think it's stiff, but if I hit any kind of dip at speed, I can bounce my kids off of the roof from the back seat, so in that regard it's bouncy. On a smooth road, it's great, but otherwise it stinks. I swapped my shocks out for Rancho RS9000's and didn't seem to make much difference. So, I sent those back...they are way too expensive to not make a difference. I planned on going back to a rancho 5000 series after I figure out how I can improve the ride. A guy at deaver springs told me it was as simple as putting softer springs on, but that I needed to lift it at least 4" to compensate for the extra travel. Another fella told me he's corrected trucks crappy ride with a little 2" lift. Said it rode like a Cadillac. I'm just wondering if I replaced my leafs with new ones if that would improve the ride?? Seems logical, if they're worn out, but I'm not sure how to tell for sure.

[chastain90]

Well in theory old springs will only get softer they don't get stiffer. Our trucks are bouncy regardless due to short wheel base and solid axles. But if you have factory springs they should be relatively flat on the front and a little arched in the back. The best leaf spring ride you will get will probably be from Alcon Springs. It will be expensive but they are built to your specifications and weight. Also will need a good set of shocks. I've heard good things on Bilstein shocks for our trucks. Only other option is a coil spring conversion and that's even more expensive. Hope this helps

[87Skier]

Mine is bouncy too. Pretty sure my springs are original and the shocks have probably been replaced. Just curious but do you have the "heavy front spring" on your spid?

[Jesse B.]

Since I've been down this road, I thought I would share my experience.

I have a 69 Blazer that has an EZ Ride 4 inch suspension lift. The lift was on the truck when I bought it and it was extremely bouncy, so I removed the Tuff country shocks and found three of them totally worn out. I could compress or extend these three with one hand. I replaced all four with Bilstein 5125 series shocks with 255/70 valving.

I drove the truck around the block and found it better, but still bouncy, especially in the front. I decided to drive the truck to work the next day and bounced all over the place. It was almost dangerous. I looked on this forum and saw how many folks just claim these trucks are bouncy because of the short wheelbase, leaf sprung, or it is just the way they were made at that time. I could not accept those explanations because I have owned or still own Jeeps, Broncos (I know Broncos are coil sprung in the front), and Scouts and have never experienced the kind of bouncing my Blazer has.

So I did a little research and replaced the front Bilsteins (255/70 valving) with a set of Bilsteins with 360/80 valving and that fixed the bouncy front end problem. It rides nice and smooth, at least what I would expect a leaf sprung truck to ride like. The higher valving means a stiffer shock.

I don't like using Rancho or other similar manufacturer because it is so difficult to find out what the valving is in a particular shock. They just tell you what fits, and I hate that. There is more to a shock than just being the right length.

The problem you might have is that Bilstein does not make a whole lot of shocks with the stiffer valving, so I am not even sure if they make one in your size. Failing that, you may have to find another manufacturer or go to dual shocks in the front with lighter valving. You could probably run two shocks with 170/60 valving each and be pretty close to what I have.

I'm only sharing my experience and you're welcome to ignore or accept. I'm just sharing what worked for me. Everyone has a different definition of a crappy ride or what is bouncy and what is smooth. Since I've owned trucks my whole life I'm used to somewhat stiffer rides, but bouncing I could not accept.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by Jesse B.

Since I've been down this road, I thought I would share my experience.

I have a 69 Blazer that has an EZ Ride 4 inch suspension lift. The lift was on the truck when I bought it and it was extremely bouncy, so I removed the Tuff country shocks and found three of them totally worn out. I could compress or extend these three with one hand. I replaced all four with Bilstein 5125 series shocks with 255/70 valving.

I drove the truck around the block and found it better, but still bouncy, especially in the front. I decided to drive the truck to work the next day and bounced all over the place. It was almost dangerous. I looked on this forum and saw how many folks just claim these trucks are bouncy because of the short wheelbase, leaf sprung, or it is just the way they were made at that time. I could not accept those explanations because I have owned or still own Jeeps, Broncos (I know Broncos are coil sprung in the front), and Scouts and have never experienced the kind of bouncing my Blazer has.

So I did a little research and replaced the front Bilsteins (255/70 valving) with a set of Bilsteins with 360/80 valving and that fixed the bouncy front end problem. It rides nice and smooth, at least what I would expect a leaf sprung truck to ride like. The higher valving means a stiffer shock.

I don't like using Rancho or other similar manufacturer because it is so difficult to find out what the valving is in a particular shock. They just tell you what fits, and I hate that. There is more to a shock than just being the right length.

The problem you might have is that Bilstein does not make a whole lot of shocks with the stiffer valving, so I am not even sure if they make one in your size. Failing that, you may have to find another manufacturer or go to dual shocks in the front with lighter valving. You could probably run two shocks with 170/60 valving each and be pretty close to what I have.

I'm only sharing my experience and you're welcome to ignore or accept. I'm just sharing what worked for me. Everyone has a different definition of a crappy ride or what is bouncy and what is smooth. Since I've owned trucks my whole life I'm used to somewhat stiffer rides, but bouncing I could not accept.

Did you keep the rear with 255/70 valving or switch to match the front?

[Jesse B.]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

Did you keep the rear with 255/70 valving or switch to match the front?

The rear stayed the same (255/70).

[PDXk5]

Originally Posted by Jesse B.

Since I've been down this road, I thought I would share my experience.

I have a 69 Blazer that has an EZ Ride 4 inch suspension lift. The lift was on the truck when I bought it and it was extremely bouncy, so I removed the Tuff country shocks and found three of them totally worn out. I could compress or extend these three with one hand. I replaced all four with Bilstein 5125 series shocks with 255/70 valving.

I drove the truck around the block and found it better, but still bouncy, especially in the front. I decided to drive the truck to work the next day and bounced all over the place. It was almost dangerous. I looked on this forum and saw how many folks just claim these trucks are bouncy because of the short wheelbase, leaf sprung, or it is just the way they were made at that time. I could not accept those explanations because I have owned or still own Jeeps, Broncos (I know Broncos are coil sprung in the front), and Scouts and have never experienced the kind of bouncing my Blazer has.

So I did a little research and replaced the front Bilsteins (255/70 valving) with a set of Bilsteins with 360/80 valving and that fixed the bouncy front end problem. It rides nice and smooth, at least what I would expect a leaf sprung truck to ride like. The higher valving means a stiffer shock.

I don't like using Rancho or other similar manufacturer because it is so difficult to find out what the valving is in a particular shock. They just tell you what fits, and I hate that. There is more to a shock than just being the right length.

The problem you might have is that Bilstein does not make a whole lot of shocks with the stiffer valving, so I am not even sure if they make one in your size. Failing that, you may have to find another manufacturer or go to dual shocks in the front with lighter valving. You could probably run two shocks with 170/60 valving each and be pretty close to what I have.

I'm only sharing my experience and you're welcome to ignore or accept. I'm just sharing what worked for me. Everyone has a different definition of a crappy ride or what is bouncy and what is smooth. Since I've owned trucks my whole life I'm used to somewhat stiffer rides, but bouncing I could not accept.

I replaced my shocks with the Bilstein 5125s. I think I'll swap the fronts with the 360/80 valving like you did. Do you remember the size / or compressed and extended lengths? Just trying to save myself from taking them off to remeasure.

[Jesse B.]

No, sorry, I do not have the lengths. You should measure yours anyway just to be sure you order the right ones.

[mister.freeze]

my 72 is pretty bouncy in front, but I've always chalked that up to 3/4 ton springs. The rear axle NEVER leaves the ground, though. Might I have a shock problem? All I know is that I have Skyjackers... The suspension kit is almost 20 years old...

[Jesse B.]

Originally Posted by mister.freeze

my 72 is pretty bouncy in front, but I've always chalked that up to 3/4 ton springs. The rear axle NEVER leaves the ground, though. Might I have a shock problem? All I know is that I have Skyjackers... The suspension kit is almost 20 years old...

At 20 years old, I do think the shocks could be shot. There are a couple ways I "test" them, if you want to call it that. One, pull off the front shocks (it's easy, just two bolts), and expand and contract them by hand. There should be a fair to significant amount of resistance. If there is a soft spot or soft spots (where it just collapses or expands with little to no effort for about an inch or two), or if they are easy to move with one hand, then I say probably shot. Two, stand on the front bumper, jump up and down to get it moving and then jump off. It should stabilize after one or one and a half bounces. (If you have a newer truck, try doing the same thing on it and compare the results.) My Blazer (before the heavier valving) bounced two or three times before stabilizing.

Other folks on this Board may have other and better ways to check, but this is how I do it.

In fact, I'm so happy with the heavier valving in the front, I'm going to do it in the rear too. On certain roads the truck can rock front to back like a boat.

[mister.freeze]

I’m familiar with the standing on the bumper method. However, like I said, I have 3/4 ton springs (plus a 6” pipe bumper) and standing or even jumping doesn’t deflect it much...