Moody's Utah 58 Apache

[_Ogre]

that hornet nest is what nightmares are made of...

i suggest you throw the front fenders on to check alignment to the doors. everything can be shimmed and typically was from the factory. you can shim the rad support with washers, or either cab mount. a couple years ago, martinsr posted a pic from the 57 of factory adjustment method of closing the door on a piece of oak before going into the paint shop.

if the top back of the door is jammed to the frame while everything else works, you can jack the door pillar/firewall forward. my cab was dropped on the firewall, luckily we had an old school body guy working in the shop at the time. he'd jack a bit and then go around the frame with a 5lb hammer relieving stress. any impact to the front can do the same.

if you've removed the trans mount x-member, this can also lead to the front cab mounts sagging down and pinching fenders to doors gap.

[alexMoody]

Well, long time no post, I moved into a much larger house and have space and do not have to pull the truck out of the covered area to work on it. I actually have a garage now that I can work in. I had to run a new sub panel so I could get my welder working.

I did some more rust repair on the cab. There was a surprising amount of old newspaper behind the bondo on this side. It went up in flames quickly. I also got 16 gauge steel to do the inner cab corner delete. I have seen a few post pictures and it just looks classy, and also because the inner cab corners are bad too. I have to do the front passenger cab corner, the part where the front fender mounts to the cab was to far gone on that side. Parts are ordered along with door hinge bushings and a few various other items.

I was also given a 305 motor that is complete. I should be getting that by the end of the month I'm not sure if the transmission will come with it or not but I can at least use the sm420? Or at least from other threads I have read I can with a different bellhousing.