12" lift for front of 72 blazer?

[lukefalls]

Got it. Sorry for the long, unrelated response.

If your set-up works now, don't change anything. People have been running leafs w/o panhards for years. We just now know that its better to have one.

Look at 87-03 F250/F350. They have flat, stiff springs. They have a panhard.

If you do install a panhard, you may see more responsive steering and less bump-steer.

No, I would not spend the money to build it if you don't need it. Once you have one, you may realize that you did need one.

[JDeere550]

alright gotchya, makes sense about the bumpsteer and all that. probably not a huge difference with leafs but i havent tried it.. i'm thinkin about fabbin up a bolt on quick and seein how it feels with it and without it lol

[lukefalls]

If the OP doesn't want my bracket, you're next for it.

[lukefalls]

I just though of something dumb. Unless you have cross over steering, DO NOT put a panhard on. That will make the axle cycle completely different than the steering.

[mud slut 350]

Originally Posted by lukefalls

Simply put, no. Let me TRY to explain...

Here is the principal difference between cross-over and push/pull: The length of the steering linkage.

Because the steering box is fixed to the frame and the connection at the axle is moving, there are infinite changes in steering geometry. The factory chose push/pull because its smaller and puts force on the springs in the direction that the spring has the most rigidity. Therefore no panhard. It doesn't need it.

We all now know that is no the best for on or off road performance.

Look at newer Fords, Jeeps, or Dodges. They all have some type of cross-over. They all use a panhard.

Here is why:
as the wheels move in suspension cycling, they generally move up and slightly rearward (in our leaf sprung trucks). The distance between pitman arm and the connection at the axle is changing. That means that either the drag link needs to get shorter or steering parts need to move. That is why in some truck, when you hit a bump, either: wheels steer or the steering wheel moves. Hence "bump-steer" The longer the drag link is, the less change in geometry as the suspension cycles.

IMAGINE using a 12" ruler. it is fixed at one end. as you moved the other end of the ruler up 12" and down 12" (24" total), the ruler swings 180 degrees in a half circle. NOW imagine using a 36" ruler. Move it up 12" and down 12". It may only move 60 degrees.

HERE IS WHY HE USE A PANHARD: Using a panhard with cross-over steering should be at the exact same angle and length of the drag link. That will force the axle to cycle in the exact same path as the steering. That means no bump steer. Great right.

Clear as mud?

Now, using hydro assist with push/pull:
All hydro assist does in any steering system is just that, assist. It in no way makes up for steering angles or controlls axle movement.

Here is why bigger lift makes things worse:
The springs are taller. The axle is farther from the spring mounting point on the frame. Imagine your axle as your hand, and the spring a wrench. Its putting force on a longer wrench. To resist that force it take more support. Also, the panhard and draglink are no longer horizontal (or close to it), they are at a much steeper angle. This makes a much more exaggerated bump-steer.

So, on a non-lifted truck, it does not take much to limited side-to-side (driver to passenger side) movement. As the truck gets taller (or springs get softer), a panhard is required. When the cross over steering pushes or pulls it moves the axle side to side rather than steering the wheels.

The panhard provides both stability laterally in the truck AND locates the axle under the truck.

Here is a FORD Solid Axle Swap (SAS) that I did a few years ago. Notice how the panhard and draglink almost at the same angle. In fact, you can't hardly see the panhard behind the draglink.

If you want somethin that handles on the street buy a car! Im planning on lifting my 82 k10 the same way I already have the crossover and a 4 " spring lift what i bought the truck with. Im gonna get the spring hanger drop for the front and move my 4" lift 52s springs to the front 12" then for the rear get a new pair of 8" lift springs and get DIYs shackle flip will net me 12 there. for driveshafts theres plenty of high angle driveline companys out there that can make you a driveshaft that will angle that far. as for the panhard bar yes i think its a good idea but will hinder flexing and the lean is not that bad if you have good bushings. A truck lifted that high you shouldnt even think about tryin to make it drive like a dang racecar. crossover steering is a lot better than the stock bull@#%$ when you flex with the stock setup you WILL lose all steering cause of the geometry and what little travel you have on the left side trust me. try flexing the pass side up and try turning your wheel and see what happens. Since your on a safty kick crossover steering eliminates bump steering which if you hit a bump doin 60 down the road with a weak steering stabilizer will send you into a death wobble if your running a lift with the stock setup. New trucks use a panhard bar because they are made to be on the road and be a nice ride because for some reason trucks nowadays are supposed to have good street manners? If your worried about all this $#!* with lifted trucks why are you hear? Go get in your prius and drive away.

[lukefalls]

Interesting. I'll bite. I believe that you can have a freakin' awesome crawler that handles on the street (handles like a race car, no). Simple as that. Run a panhard or don't, I don't care.

It is my opinion that the panhard is absolutely necessary with that much lift.

Drive away? Okay, done.

[JDeere550]