Attempting my first build 72 K5

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Hey Mike - I think we are using the same AED throttle cable bracket. I am struggling to get the cable to fit, have broken two trying to 'bend' them into an S shape to make the angle back into the firewall. It also looks like you went back to the factory kick down bracket versus the one you fabbed up.

Thanks!

Heres the pic I noticed:

What cable brand/part number did you use and any issues with making that angle?

I haven't installed it yet. Was planning to do it next couple days. I plan to use Mr Gaskets universal (cut to fit) throttle cable. Part # MRG-5657

I got the idea from this guy's build I found on Instagram.


Also, did you switch back to the factory kick down bracket?

Yeah, I did. I'm using Lokar's kick down cable which was made for stock factory length. With the higher intake rise and the spacer between the carb, it was putting too much of an angle / bend on the TV cable. If I was to do it again, I would use a universal (cut to fit) TV cable.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Didn't get a chance to turn the motor over this weekend. One of the battery terminals I ordered from Summit arrived damaged. Going to send it back and have a new set delivered.

I managed to get the interior all completed minus the door panels. Waiting on a pair of new window regulators before I tackle the door windows, latches, etc.

I had seat warmers installed both front and rear. The main harness runs through to the center console and had it designed to be hidden with a front aluminum plate that can be slid in and out as you can see here.



Controls for the front and rear bench seat

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

More pics. The Tcase shifter ring came from member DeadHeadNM and the Jacking instructions label from member IronCanine. I've been sitting on these two parts for a while now and couldn't wait to put them on.

[Tom Vogel]

Who redid your seat belts?

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I haven't installed it yet. Was planning to do it next couple days. I plan to use Mr Gaskets universal (cut to fit) throttle cable. Part # MRG-5657

Yeah, I did. I'm using Lokar's kick down cable which was made for stock factory length. With the higher intake rise and the spacer between the carb, it was putting too much of an angle / bend on the TV cable. If I was to do it again, I would use a universal (cut to fit) TV cable.

Thank Mike - I really appreciate the detailed response.

After reading it, I started some research and I think I'll use the Lokar TC1000U for my throttle cable - saw some reviews on the Mr Gasket one that gave me pause.

And for the rest of your update, it's AWESOME. Great work!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

Who redid your seat belts?

Python Restoration out of Texas

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

Thank Mike - I really appreciate the detailed response.

After reading it, I started some research and I think I'll use the Lokar TC1000U for my throttle cable - saw some reviews on the Mr Gasket one that gave me pause.

And for the rest of your update, it's AWESOME. Great work!

"saw some reviews on the Mr Gasket one that gave me pause."

Lol.. Me too, I ended up using Lokar XTC-1000HT. I would make sure to add a washer on both sides of the bracket coming off the carb and at the firewall. The ferrules could slip inside and it will help keep in centered.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

"saw some reviews on the Mr Gasket one that gave me pause."

Lol.. Me too, I ended up using Lokar XTC-1000HT. I would make sure to add a washer on both sides of the bracket coming off the carb and at the firewall. The ferrules could slip inside and it will help keep in centered.

Great minds!

And thanks for the pic & advice!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Having an electrical issue and this one has me stumped. Spent the last week searching the board and web for any help but there doesn't seem to be any one right answer.

When I turn the ignition to either ACC or ON the power remains on even when I turn the ignition switch out and remove key. I have to disconnect the battery so it won't drain.

What I have done so far:
Disconnected alternator - power remains on
Took each fuse out one by one - power remains on

To give you some context of what I'm working with.. here goes:

I'm using M&H complete electrical wiring harness front to back. It was converted to HEI and Internal regulated alternator. This kit is about 90% plug & play.

Grounds: 4 gauge wire from block to frame, other ground wires include frame to inner fender, frame to cab, 2 from engine valve cover to firewall, back of body to frame.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Found the culprit.

The darn brake light switch was staying activated. I disconnected it and there is no more amp draws from the battery. The brake light switch wasn't plunging in so I'm not sure why it was being activated. I'll try cleaning it to see if that helps and if not I'll just order a new one.

All switches seem to be in working order now. ow it's time to turn this motor over.

[tjsblazer]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Found the culprit.

The darn brake light switch was staying activated. I disconnected it and there is no more amp draws from the battery. The brake light switch wasn't plunging in so I'm not sure why it was being activated. I'll try cleaning it to see if that helps and if not I'll just order a new one.

All switches seem to be in working order now. ow it's time to turn this motor over.

The brake light switch closes the circuit when the plunger is Extended. This then turns on your brake lights. The plunger should be fully depressed when you are not using the brakes. I would assume the switch is not adjusted far enough in (screwed in far enough) to fully seat the plunger against the metal tab in the brake pedal.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

The brake light switch closes the circuit when the plunger is Extended. This then turns on your brake lights. The plunger should be fully depressed when you are not using the brakes. I would assume the switch is not adjusted far enough in (screwed in far enough) to fully seat the plunger against the metal tab in the brake pedal.

Yep.. you're right.Just tested it by hand.. I didn't have the switch adjusted far enough. I thought it was the other way around.. I don't know what I would do without this board.

[SeventyOne]

yeah but.....


did you start the engine yet???

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

yeah but.....


did you start the engine yet???

Sort of.. It came on for a slight second with starter fluid, (and it sounded SICK!) but the fuel pump is not pulling in gas. I checked the push rod and it slid down when I installed the pump.. Took it out and got the push rod in the right place.. Went to turn it over and it still wouldn't pull any gas. I only tried turning it over for about 10 seconds after I fixed the position of the push rod. The starter was starting to sound like it was getting tired so I called it day.

Tomorrow, I'm going to flush out any air in the lines and if that's not the reason then I'll try manually pumping the fuel pump to see if it's working or not.

Open to any other suggestions

[SeventyOne]

Did you fill the fuel bowls on the carb? Here's a little how to: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...ur-engine.html

Also I hope you primed the engine oil with a drill before trying to fire it?

My guess is it may take a few times of starting it to get all the air out of the fuel lines?

[jaros44sr]

very nice detail, the way we all should build them, nice progress

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Did you fill the fuel bowls on the carb? Here's a little how to: http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/...ur-engine.html

Also I hope you primed the engine oil with a drill before trying to fire it?

My guess is it may take a few times of starting it to get all the air out of the fuel lines?

I assuming this means building up the oil pressure? I first disconnected the terminal battery wire on the distributor and cranked her over until the oil pressure built up

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

very nice detail, the way we all should build them, nice progress

Thank you, Jaro. As always, I appreciate the kind feedback you and others who have been following along. Helps keep up the motivation for sure

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

I assuming this means building up the oil pressure? I first disconnected the terminal battery wire on the distributor and cranked her over until the oil pressure built up

He means this way - -

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.c...-engine?Page=3

[SeventyOne]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

He means this way - -

http://www.autoserviceprofessional.c...-engine?Page=3

Correct. Thats just to make sure the engine isnt turning over dry. You've already spun the engine with the starter to get the oil pressure up, so likely some of that was a little dry/without oil.

Let us know if adding fuel to the carb bowls gets ya going!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Correct. Thats just to make sure the engine isnt turning over dry. You've already spun the engine with the starter to get the oil pressure up, so likely some of that was a little dry/without oil.

Let us know if adding fuel to the carb bowls gets ya going!

Each time I had fuel to the carb bowl it starts up for about 1 second.. Should I keep do this a few more times or until the fuel pump starts pulling in gas?

[SeventyOne]

I've never actually done it but from reading a few things the engine should idle for a good 30 seconds on just the fuel in the carb bowls. They say to add about 1/4 cup of gas. Are you adding that much?

Also in the reading it says that within that 30 seconds of idle if the fuel pump hasnt pulled gas from the tank to the carb you have other issues.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

I've never actually done it but from reading a few things the engine should idle for a good 30 seconds on just the fuel in the carb bowls. They say to add about 1/4 cup of gas. Are you adding that much?

Also in the reading it says that within that 30 seconds of idle if the fuel pump hasn't pulled gas from the tank to the carb you have other issues.

Yeah, def at least 1/4 cup of gas.

What if it's not even idling for 30 seconds? Could the distributor have anything to do with this? I know the distributor got moved around from where it was set originally from the place that built the motor. If the timing was really off, could that cause it from not being able to hold an idle?

[SeventyOne]

Might as well make sure/double check the engine is at TDC on #1 with the distrubutor set to fire on the #1 cyl. Should get you close enough to twist the dizzy around as you need to get her going.

Other than that...make sure the idle screw on the carb are not closed??

[SeventyOne]

I had another idea on you trying to start the engine.

Get the fuel bowls full and use fuel hose to hook the fuel pump to a gas can. If you can get it to run from the gas can it might be another issue down with the tank or fuel lines.

Make sense?

Lastly going back to the carb adjustment - might want to up the fast idle screw. Could keep it idling vs dying.