Electrical drama !! Need suppliers Help !! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

landon4421 · 03-10-2003, 01:05 PM

Ok guys I have tryed and tryed to get the problum with my dash lights figured out. Well I found somethings that concerned me.

1. I noticed that when straitened out the wires and pluged in my
auto meter gauges the lights worked. I have them linked to
light switch, so the will dim with the dash lights.

2. The I pluged in the back of the dash ( the factory plug ) When I
did that the fuse blew out? I am thinking that it is my dash it
self. I looked at all the lights, and everything and they all
looked good. I just put a new wiring harness in the engine
compartment. All the running lights work? I am totally lost,
can some one help me?

3. I noticed also when I took the dash out of the truck that the
wiring on the back of the dash was coming apart. I was
wondering if that could be a problum?

ATT. suppliers, I was wondering if any suppliers had this style dash? I will put a pic below. Price + shipping to 95023.

First pic is of the back of the dash where it is peeling apart.

Second pic is of the back of the dash I would like to buy.

The one I need is the basic dash, it has no gauges, it only has the speedometer, and fuel gauge. I'll get a pic of the front if needed. Thanks in advance, Landon.

landon4421 · 03-10-2003, 01:16 PM

second pic.

landon4421 · 03-10-2003, 05:59 PM

Still looking for some help guys. Please.

Jason71k10 · 03-10-2003, 07:01 PM

I can't tell you whether it's your dash or not that's causing the problem, but it looks like you have a whole lot of wires pliced(sp?) togther there?

When I hooked up my gauges(triple gauge&tach) i used the plug on the fuse block. there should be a plug on your fuse block that runs off the fuse as the dash lights. You can find it by using a circuit tester......it should only up when you pull your lights on. I ran a wire right to the gauges from that. No problems at all. I didn't touch the back of the dash at all or cut any wires.
hope this helps.
Jason

landon4421 · 03-11-2003, 12:42 PM

I need to know if any of the board suppiers has the printed circuit like the one in the pic above

**Classic Heartbeat** · 03-11-2003, 01:55 PM

I don't have one in stock, but I can order one in. The price is $74.95 plus shipping. Email me at wehepp@attbi.com if you want one. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

Yellow Cheyenne · 03-11-2003, 03:39 PM

If the only part that is coming apart is what you show lifted, it shouldn't be a problem. If blowing the gauge lighting fuse is the only problem you are having, then it shouldn't be too hard to find.

This method assumes that you don't have an ohm meter, which means you'll probably waste a couple fuses and use a little more time, but it should track down the problem.

1. Remove all of the lamps/lamp holders that are used for backlighting. Make sure that the flexible circuit is slightly lifted from the metal housing at each lamp location. Plug the harness in.

A. If fuse doesn't blow, either one of the bulbs is bad or there is a short where one of them plugs into the dash assembly. To determine what is happening, remove the bulbs from the little black holders. Install only the holder (no bulb) one at time with the lights on. Observe the fuse as you install each holder. If the fuse blows when you install one of the holders, look for a problem with the flexible circuit underneath that lamp. If you install all of the holders and the fuse hasn't blown, start intalling the bulbs one at a time (again with lights turned on and observing the fuse) until the defective bulb is found (not likely to find a defective bulb, but it's part of the troubleshooting process).

B. If the fuse blows with all of the lamps unplugged, the short would most likely be right where the harness plugs into the gauge assembly. If so, look at the conductive traces as they fold down into the hole where the harness plugs in. They tend to be fairly fragile there and can move around, possibly shorting to an adjacent trace. Also check to insure that there is good insulation under the traces where they fold into the plug hole. If something has damaged the insulation, it can allow a short there.

From the photos, it doesn't look like the flex circuit should have to be replaced. It doesn't have any burnt traces and doesn't appear to be hacked up. One other thing, what size fuse are you using? I don't know what is supposed to be in there, but would guess that it is around 10 amps. Just making sure that you aren't trying to use a .25 or .50 amp or something that is too small. DO NOT try to use a 30 amp or something like that, as you will cause more harm and potentially make it unsafe (fire).

Good luck,

Let us know what you find.

Randy

03-10-2003, 01:05 PM	#1
landon4421 Life is Good ! Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 1,992	Need suppliers Help !! Ok guys I have tryed and tryed to get the problum with my dash lights figured out. Well I found somethings that concerned me. 1. I noticed that when straitened out the wires and pluged in my auto meter gauges the lights worked. I have them linked to light switch, so the will dim with the dash lights. 2. The I pluged in the back of the dash ( the factory plug ) When I did that the fuse blew out? I am thinking that it is my dash it self. I looked at all the lights, and everything and they all looked good. I just put a new wiring harness in the engine compartment. All the running lights work? I am totally lost, can some one help me? 3. I noticed also when I took the dash out of the truck that the wiring on the back of the dash was coming apart. I was wondering if that could be a problum? ATT. suppliers, I was wondering if any suppliers had this style dash? I will put a pic below. Price + shipping to 95023. First pic is of the back of the dash where it is peeling apart. Second pic is of the back of the dash I would like to buy. The one I need is the basic dash, it has no gauges, it only has the speedometer, and fuel gauge. I'll get a pic of the front if needed. Thanks in advance, Landon. Attached Images __________________ '72 Chevy C10 4x4 shortbed "Project" '71 Chevy C10 2wd longbed "partsrunner" '91 Chevy Burb 4x4 "kidrunner" '14 Honda Accord Sport "commuter" Last edited by landon4421; 03-11-2003 at 12:31 PM.

03-10-2003, 01:16 PM	#2
landon4421 Life is Good ! Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 1,992	second pic. Attached Images __________________ '72 Chevy C10 4x4 shortbed "Project" '71 Chevy C10 2wd longbed "partsrunner" '91 Chevy Burb 4x4 "kidrunner" '14 Honda Accord Sport "commuter"

03-10-2003, 05:59 PM	#3
landon4421 Life is Good ! Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 1,992	Still looking for some help guys. Please. __________________ '72 Chevy C10 4x4 shortbed "Project" '71 Chevy C10 2wd longbed "partsrunner" '91 Chevy Burb 4x4 "kidrunner" '14 Honda Accord Sport "commuter"

03-11-2003, 12:42 PM	#5
landon4421 Life is Good ! Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Hollister, Ca. Posts: 1,992	I need to know if any of the board suppiers has the printed circuit like the one in the pic above __________________ '72 Chevy C10 4x4 shortbed "Project" '71 Chevy C10 2wd longbed "partsrunner" '91 Chevy Burb 4x4 "kidrunner" '14 Honda Accord Sport "commuter"

03-11-2003, 01:55 PM	#6
Classic Heartbeat Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!! Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512 Posts: 10,770	I don't have one in stock, but I can order one in. The price is $74.95 plus shipping. Email me at wehepp@attbi.com if you want one. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com __________________ On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys

03-10-2003, 07:01 PM	#4
Jason71k10 ready for reassembly Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Barrie ONT, Canada Posts: 413	I can't tell you whether it's your dash or not that's causing the problem, but it looks like you have a whole lot of wires pliced(sp?) togther there? When I hooked up my gauges(triple gauge&tach) i used the plug on the fuse block. there should be a plug on your fuse block that runs off the fuse as the dash lights. You can find it by using a circuit tester......it should only up when you pull your lights on. I ran a wire right to the gauges from that. No problems at all. I didn't touch the back of the dash at all or cut any wires. hope this helps. Jason

03-11-2003, 03:39 PM	#7
Yellow Cheyenne Registered User Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Eastern Kansas Posts: 488	If the only part that is coming apart is what you show lifted, it shouldn't be a problem. If blowing the gauge lighting fuse is the only problem you are having, then it shouldn't be too hard to find. This method assumes that you don't have an ohm meter, which means you'll probably waste a couple fuses and use a little more time, but it should track down the problem. 1. Remove all of the lamps/lamp holders that are used for backlighting. Make sure that the flexible circuit is slightly lifted from the metal housing at each lamp location. Plug the harness in. A. If fuse doesn't blow, either one of the bulbs is bad or there is a short where one of them plugs into the dash assembly. To determine what is happening, remove the bulbs from the little black holders. Install only the holder (no bulb) one at time with the lights on. Observe the fuse as you install each holder. If the fuse blows when you install one of the holders, look for a problem with the flexible circuit underneath that lamp. If you install all of the holders and the fuse hasn't blown, start intalling the bulbs one at a time (again with lights turned on and observing the fuse) until the defective bulb is found (not likely to find a defective bulb, but it's part of the troubleshooting process). B. If the fuse blows with all of the lamps unplugged, the short would most likely be right where the harness plugs into the gauge assembly. If so, look at the conductive traces as they fold down into the hole where the harness plugs in. They tend to be fairly fragile there and can move around, possibly shorting to an adjacent trace. Also check to insure that there is good insulation under the traces where they fold into the plug hole. If something has damaged the insulation, it can allow a short there. From the photos, it doesn't look like the flex circuit should have to be replaced. It doesn't have any burnt traces and doesn't appear to be hacked up. One other thing, what size fuse are you using? I don't know what is supposed to be in there, but would guess that it is around 10 amps. Just making sure that you aren't trying to use a .25 or .50 amp or something that is too small. DO NOT try to use a 30 amp or something like that, as you will cause more harm and potentially make it unsafe (fire). Good luck, Let us know what you find. Randy __________________ '72 Cheyenne. AC, PS, PB, Rear slider window, tilt. Light yellow (grapefruit yellow according to new sales literature from '72) '56 Chevy short step V-8 (My dad bought it new!!) '70 Olds 442 convertible '70 Olds Rallye 350



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