refinishing underneath floors

[BlackedOut67shorty]

I want to paint the underneath of my cab, I just got the bottom of my cab blasted and rust free, what would work better in the long run. Kinda don't want anything to fail under there and start rusting. It isn't going to be a trailer queen and it will be driving fairly frequently. So what's the best choice guys. Would you epoxy prime with undercoat, would you epoxy prime paint and undercoat, or would you por 15 and would you undercoat over por 15 or could you just leave it?? Any other choices or options? Thank you for your replys.
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[hugger6933]

I would apply some epoxy primer then if you want pretty some paint like the rest of the truck or if you want to quiet it down a little bit I would under coat it. some of the over the top resto or the absolute people that are perfectsonist might not stop until they had epoxy primed then base coated and clear coated[or maybe son of them would cut a corner there by a single stage] then under coat. it all boils down to how far you really want to carry that thing . The main thing is I would def put at LEAST some epoxy primer on it so that you can seal up the metal under there as it will still get wet from time to time. I personally like the later model look and will paint mine on the under side and then put some sort of mat on the floor on the inside to hold down the road noise. Jim

[BR3W CITY]

I tried to leave as much e-coating on my patch panels as I could to prevent the flash rust. After I welded them in I rattle-can primed all the seams with sealer, then I put all of my sound deadening over it.

on the under side, there is no replacement for truck bed liner. If you are considering a rubberized undercoat, skip it and go bed liner instead.

[problazer]

Spray in bedliner. I do it all the time on both sides of a belly pan (floor pans). Works spectacular. Sound deadens to some degree. Resists abrasions,rocks,etc. Easy to spray. Sprays direct to metal. Can do epoxy sealer first if you want but not needed. Cheap and readily available. Since you have blasted the cab, simple to spray and go. However you choose to go, make sure any needed bolt holes have bolts threaded into them to prevent build up on the threads. Use a catalyzed, two part kit. The single part (air dry) is typically weaker and will not stand the test of time. You can get bedliner kit that is tintable, (in the event you want something other than black). Good luck

[BlackedOut67shorty]

what kind of bedliner did you use, i used hurculiner in the back of my bed but i didnt care for the results, it showed through in about two months and a small part peeled off.

[problazer]

Raptor kit seems to work well. The peeling most likely came from improper adhesion. AKA not good enough prep. You would not have the same problem since you will have a blasted surface. Don't try and get complete coverage in one pass. two lighter coats with a final tie coat will net you wonderful results. You should only have to let it flash for a few minutes between coats. In the last coat, I like to add about 10-15% lacquer thinner. It cuts down on the sheen if you have put to much on in one spot at once. It also helps all three coats melt together thoroughly. I have had great results thus far. The oldest one I have done is about five years old and shows no significant wear or damage. Standing brake fluid will wreak havoc on just about any finished surface. Short of that it seems to stand up well to gas,oil, etc.. Good luck

[BigDan3131]

DIY BedLiners are no better or worse than using an undercoating. Real actual spray in bedliner from either Rhino or Line X will last a thousand times longer and it is a better sound deadener. Spray the underside and spray the inside too to completely seal everything. You can paint over it while its still fresh or if you need to wait shoot some Bulldog adhesion promoter when your ready.

[problazer]

Dan I gotta disagree with you. I agree that line-x is better than DIY kits. But Raptor bedliner has worked wonderfully for me for years. From a $10,000 truck to a $60,000 Chevelle. All of my work is warranted and as of yet, Not a single bedliner issue. I would suggest you do a little research and not assume it is crap without trying it for yourself. Raptor is made by Dominion. Do you know what else Dominion makes???? Line-X. The components for line-X are made by and at Dominions plant. So.......add heat to a raptor kit and you have Line-X?? Not quite but not that far off. Give it an honest try for yourself. You might be surprised if you keep an open mind.

[BigDan3131]

Maybe so...Then the only real difference is that I can shoot Rhino smooth no texture and it dries in seconds.

[problazer]

You can cut Raptor kit with lacquer thinner to get it to lay flat as well. You can cut it with basecoat reducer to reduce the sheen to a near flat finish. The dry time in 70 degree weather is 30 minutes, dry to the touch. So your theory is 30 seconds vs. 30 minutes justifies buying a 7,000.00 to 11,000 dollar machine?

[BigDan3131]

No not really, the machine costs about 25K with the first two drums of material and its dry in 3 seconds. Having the machine just allows you to be bringing in extra cash when the shop is slow and we have ours setup in a truck to do onsite spraying of anything the customer wants. We had it paid for in about 6 months of spraying so minus materials its mostly profit.
Oh and the no texture is glossy like a rolled on paintjob.

[problazer]

You still have not defined why you feel DIY kits are worthless. Congrats of having the ability to wheel out a machine and get it done how you want it. But how does this help with the average guy?? Load the cab on a trailer (if they have one) bring it to you and pay you to do it? That is not helping him to do it himself

[BigDan3131]

Okay, this is why. I have used all of them except the one you use, for the most part they are fine if you never really drive anywhere except on the highway and city streets. But, there are quite a few people who off road and by having it shot by us or another dealer you wont have to worry about it coming off unless your dragging the body across rocks.
As far as using it on your bed its the same thing, unless its a show truck or one that never sees anything other than dust they are fine. But if you decide to use it on your truck and think your getting the same amount of protection you get from us your dead wrong. Why? I've had had hundreds of beds and parts shot with DIY stuff that came off when someone thought they would get by and cheap out. That's even with them either sanding the whole bed down with 36 grit or after blasting and primering. Inside the cab is probably the only place I would use it. But that's only if I couldn't get this: http://3mcollision.com/dynatron-dyna...ing-00544.html The Dynatron stuff works great, I use a Shultz gun and if I keep air pressure high it comes out like a bedliner look or if I turn it down low it goes on really heavy. I used four gallons of it to cover the insides of two doors, two fenders and inner fenders, under the hood and the inside and outside of a cab.

In the long run it makes sense to have some things done by a professional, it might cost a bit more up front but...

Admin close this thread were long past what the OP wanted to know.

[notsolo]

I also like the Raptor tintable bedliner.... worked well...did what I wanted it to do for a reasonable price.