Questions on paint products

[custom10nut]

I’m only asking for Advice/Opinions on Paint, because it’s been a LONG time since I last painted a vehicle (1982-83 timeframe), and I know technology has changed.
I’ve reached the point on my truck that I need to start looking for paint products,
So I could use some insight.
Are there any GoTo paint Brands?
Are there any “Stay Away From” products? (Problematic)
Is Single stage ok to use?
With these “New” paints, Can I do the gradient mixture technique? Meaning: Start with 100%color coat, then 80/20 (base/clear) 60/40, 40/60, 80/20, then color sand and finish with 100% clearcoat. It kinda a version of painting “Candy Apple” colors back in the day. When done right, the paint finish looks like it’s 12 inches deep.
To “Break all the cobwebs loose” and get my skills back in line, I’m going to repaint my 91 3500, for practice, before I paint my 70:smoke
I’m not expecting a “House of Kolor”, National Show winning paint job, but just a nice looking finish, that I can say “ I did that myself”.
ANY advice, insight, or suggestions are encouraged.
Thanks in advance

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I'm no expert, but the painter hit mine with the following, and I couldn't be happier:

Nason GM Corp. 521 White and 511 Ochre. The paint and inner grille are clear coated with Avalta Clear 72500.

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I'm no expert, but the painter hit mine with the following, and I couldn't be happier:

Nason GM Corp. 521 White and 511 Ochre. The paint and inner grille are clear coated with Avalta Clear 72500.

Thanks, I’ll look into this.

[hugger6933]

Onmi plus[ or is it pro?] it is a budget friendly line form PPG and your technique Is a solid Idea but I would start the base with the proper ratios, normally 50/50 and cover up real good like three coats then you could start playing and getting fancy

[LS short box]

Can't speak to the materials. But my body guy gave me some good advice many years ago. He said drive over to your local car dealership and scope out all the stock car colors. Pick one out one you like and its so easy to match if needed in the future. Some really cool stock colors out there today.
The other thing is use materials from one manufacturer. Don't mix and match.
Oh and get ready for sticker shock in regards to materials cost. I was helping my body shop guy today and he just got a 1 gallon can of 3M premium body filler in today. Just under $100 his cost.

[cornerstone]

I'm also getting ready to begin painting. I decided to go with single stage Nason paint, in the original GM 521 linen white and 510 medium blue. The cost for my paint was around $650. In the paint and bodywork section of the forum you'll find some very good threads to point you in the right direction.

Edit: scratch that, there are no more threads in the paint and bodywork section anymore. I guess someone cleaned house and took down many older threads?

[Orefactory4x4 swb]

Good to know.
Getting mine out of primer on my factory tuxedo black 72 swb Cheyenne 4x4 so I’m wanting to keep it that, but any help and pointers are sure helpful.

[Steeveedee]

I used to walk in and ask for a gallon of GM #11 white acrylic lacquer, which was already mixed, and just needed shaking, back in the day. Last time I bought paint it was for the roof of my truck after I took the old camper shell off and cleaned up the rough spots. One quart of some Delfleet Delthane, hardener and reducer (plus clear) was well over $300. I'm trying to figure out what I'm going to do for the orange, if I ever do that. I get orange, when red and yellow are the most expensive colors- and I have to add them together! At least I have enough of the white left to repaint the lower back to original, once some dents are pulled out.

[nightrider388]

Anything metallic and or pearls is high now no matter if its red or not. Even the omni plus reds with metallic can be $800 per gallon that is color alone, no clears, primers . Just colors. The fancy blues with limited use toners are off the charts high. A lot of painters I know have turned to sort of off the radar brands to make paint afforadable. There is one in mountain home arkansas called RE supply with their line of paint that is made in Tennessee. Another painter I know uses URCHEM. Both have said they are between top of the line and the middle of the pack and haven't had any issues to speak of.

[HO455]

I'm not a painter but, I have learned a lot from the SPI website. They also seem to have a devoted following of both professional and DIY painters across many forums.

I find it impressive that the owner of the company will chime in regularly on their forums.

Again I'm not a painter.

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.ph...posts/2252862/

[custom10nut]

Wow!
Thanks for all the responses.
I’ll do further research into EVERYTHING that y’all said, and I’m definitely going to scour the Paint and body forum

I’m painting my truck the original 534 Medium Olive with the White Roof.
Way back when I bought the truck 30 years ago, the Fad was to paint tricks all kinds of weird colors, but it didn’t take long to become fond of “The Green Truck”

I do have one additional question.
What is the Color Code/Name for the WHITE on my cab?

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

Onmi plus[ or is it pro?] it is a budget friendly line form PPG and your technique Is a solid Idea but I would start the base with the proper ratios, normally 50/50 and cover up real good like three coats then you could start playing and getting fancy

Thanks for this advice.
As I said it’s been a LONG time since I’ve painted anything so I’m using my 91 3500 as a “Lab Rat” to get my technique back on line,

On detail I didn’t mention is what I’m going to do with the bed strips (Wooden Bed).
I have the bed wood stained to match the color of the Faux Wood accents in the cab, so I’m going to paint the metal strips body color and use polished hardware,
Then use clear Bedliner to protect all the paint surface inside the bed

[suville]

If you're not going with stock colors take a look at Kirker brand paints good quality I use it a lot !

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by suville

If you're not going with stock colors take a look at Kirker brand paints good quality I use it a lot !

Thanks, but I’m going to repaint with the Factory Code 504, Medium Olive.
However, the Company you mentioned will probably have factory coded colors, so I’ll be looking into it.

[mongocanfly]

I no painter...but a diyer..
I used Nason paints on several trucks. I'm not sure where else to get it , but it's at my local oreillys..
I've not been pleased with the colors.. it may circle back to them not selling tons of paint.. and it sitting on the shelves for long times
But the final results leave alot to be desired.. the colors always had to be tweaked after they mixed them..my blazer I painted faided out bad after a few yrs....
But on my IH I knew I didnt want nason..
I checked into ppg, but they kept pushing me towards bc/cc..
not what I really wanted..i was wanting single stage..
next on the list was Sherwin Williams.. this is who I used.. I've been more than pleased with the results..even with my lack of experience it sprays really good..
As mentioned, the spi forum is a great source of info..

[Richard]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I'm also getting ready to begin painting. I decided to go with single stage Nason paint, in the original GM 521 linen white and 510 medium blue. The cost for my paint was around $650. In the paint and bodywork section of the forum you'll find some very good threads to point you in the right direction.

Edit: scratch that, there are no more threads in the paint and bodywork section anymore. I guess someone cleaned house and took down many older threads?

All of the threads are still there. Scroll to bottom of page and change display options from "last month" to "beginning" Every so often I see some the of the forums defaulting to month instead of beginning. Also check your settings if logged in to show forums that way.