Engine Position

[FAKKY]

So .... getting close in next few weeks to hopfeully put engine and my 1st trans rebuild (4l65e) into the 57 chevy. I already knew from a quick test fit it was tight like I had heard - mainly on the headers ..... but also tight on AC and PS pump and the steering rack and pinion.

I snapped some pics - I can take more - but a few questions.



Drivers Side header truck flange hitting



Passengers side truck flange hitting

[FAKKY]

HEADERS QUESTION
==============

If I dont want to cut frame .......
Think I have to go with something like .....

https://www.glennsautoperformance.co...ders-ram-horns

What would you do - cut top rail or switch ? Thinking about 4l60e flange clearance also.

[FAKKY]

AC clearance




Shows althought tight actually a reasonable clarance for the AC in low mount position. I think IM agoing to run the original AC compressor ....... so if I can make it work here saves money on brackets and pulleys/belts and new AC lines.

Where its tight is on the lines ...... I might have to alter the routing and/or flexible variety. you can see here.

Thoughts on this ?

[FAKKY]

Clearance for Rack and Pinion.

This might be hardest one.









Rack and Pinion Question

Here the oil cooler and PS lines on drivers side are tight with the RP steering shaft. Im guessing I will have to go with flexible lines depending on final fit?

Also - having a REAL hard time on how low I need to get the engine. I know I need to get it as far back as I can basically to give me radiator and fan clearance up front .... but how low do I bring the oil pan to the crossmember.
Reason is due to the interference with the lines and the RP shaft ....... but also with the RP itself as it has the main assembly and leaf tab ears that sit just higher than the crossmember.

You can see in the LAST pic I still have a number of inches before I'm at the crossmmeber (sitting above)
And this leads into .....

1) How low does it need to go
2) when you do the final install ....... I was planning to do it with trans to make sure it all fits with firewall and so I dont have to work on my back putting trans in. I see a lot of threads here people put in engine first though ...... and trans later.

Thougths from guys with more experience than me (zero).

[FAKKY]

Like this one looks 2+" inches off the crossmember ... middle #4

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...clearance.html

[BIGglaSS]

2010+ Camaro manifolds should fit nicely. I will try to get pictures tomorrow night. I can install my 5.3 4L60e bolted together. I mounted the engine as low as it would go. Though, ideally you don't want the pan to hang lower than the x-member.

[FAKKY]

Hey
Yep saw the camaro and corvette fbody mounts and how they hug the blocks. Was weighing those up as well versus the link I posted. Think all would work.

As I was talking in another trhead

"Biggest problem is Id like the engine to sit around 1.5" maybe 2" off of the crossmember so I have more clearance to the lines that run via the bottom of the PS pump and the AC. Thats with keeping everything in the stock location. Spending $800 to relocate everything in a high mount configuration and throwing away a perfectly good AC comrpessor just seemed like a waste.

However ...... its solves problems like this ....... and others ...... so I might just move that way."

Oil pan definately is under the cross member ..... going to have to decide on pulling that too.

[BIGglaSS]

I'm using a restomod A/C unit. They require a sanden compressor vs using the factory compressor. I went with the Holley bracket. (Wrong compressor in photo). There is 2" clearance under the pan. The Camaro manifolds easily fit between the truck frame rails, though we're using different front ends. There is 8" of clearance between the pulley and the radiator support.

[FAKKY]

Thanks - thats actually quite useful so I appreciate you spending the time to post.

I think the problem Im concerned with is the crossmember being aftermarket (dakota IFS) and concered with trans clearance.
Meaning - I ideally want ~2" of clearance from the truck pan to the member as it gives me

1) Less truck oil plan clearance issue
2) Potential to use the AC and/or PS in stocl location - less $$ with line clearance issue
3) Less interferance with the rack and pinion

What IM concerned with is eventually if I lift it too high I will have transmission clearance/driveline angle issues ........

Think Im not going to have much choice but to get the new headers in place .... then bolt the transmission back on ...... and then try and get everything back into place. If I still have issues ...... just go with a high mount AC and PS

or just go that route and not even bother ....... just its a $800 spend on brackets and AC compressor et when mine is fine.