Help with new disk brakes and what/how to property grease

[ncsurveyor]

I received my disk brake conversion kit and i'm trying to learn how to property install them. I've watched some videos on how to property pack the outer bearings with grease but I haven't seen much about the inner bearings? Will I also need to pack them as well or do they usually come already greased?

[lolife99]

They will need to be packed also.

[Steeveedee]

No, the inner bearings need to be packed as well.

[68Stepbed]

Yes, pack them all. The new bearings will have assembly lube on them. I like to soak them in laquer thinner to remove that lube as it can usually be contaminated and dirty. Then I pack them. I use a Lisle grease packer like this. -->https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-H...3096406&sr=8-4

[ncsurveyor]

Thanks for the help guys. What about the spindle itself, do I need to grease it before putting the rotor on it?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by ncsurveyor

Thanks for the help guys. What about the spindle itself, do I need to grease it before putting the rotor on it?

No.

[RichardJ]

The caliper pins need a light grease (high temp is best). The caliper floats and self aligns on the pins.
The back of the disc pads can use thin smear of Anti-Squeal Grease. I use "Disc Brake Quiet". New replacement disc pads usually come with a small packet of their own grease plus new spring clips.

[68Gold/white]

I DO put some grease on the spindle, where the inner bearing races set and on the surface where the seal rides. I use a bearing packer, and put a LOT of grease inside the hub/rotor. Making sure the outer bearing races in the hub are WAY coated with grease, and a LOT of grease inside the rotor between the 2 races. I also lubricate the seal surface with grease, AND put as much grease as possible at the inner and outer recesses of the bearings...

After you clean the insides of the rotor thoroughly, BEFORE applying ANY grease, try to twist around on the races in the rotor, make sure they do NOT spin in the rotor, IF the y do spin, it's telling you that a bearing was getting close to locking up!!! A new rotor maybe needed.

When you get the rotor (or hub with a drum on it), you do NOT torque the spindle nut to ANY spec, and leave it there!!! You do spin the rotor (or drum) until the spindle nut will NOT turn any more. No need to bear down on the spindle nut, spin the rotor/drum until the grease has completely compacted. THEN, back the spindle nut off about 1/8 of a turn. THis is NOT an exact thing. THe bearings will obviously heat up going down the road, and need a little room for expansion. Use good grease. synthetic grease is not needed. Grease used to say on the container if it was for disc brakes. I don't think that's something you need to look for these days. The grease needs to be high temperature, high pressure grease!!!

If you think this is overkill, tell me. I have no need for a bearing problem, EVER!!!

[1-PU70]

Didn’t read everything previous
To lazy
My 2 cents
If u clean the bearings do not dry them with compressed air or spin them with compressed air when clean
U can damage them that way
Good luck
Posted via Mobile Device

[ncsurveyor]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

I DO put some grease on the spindle, where the inner bearing races set and on the surface where the seal rides. I use a bearing packer, and put a LOT of grease inside the hub/rotor. Making sure the outer bearing races in the hub are WAY coated with grease, and a LOT of grease inside the rotor between the 2 races. I also lubricate the seal surface with grease, AND put as much grease as possible at the inner and outer recesses of the bearings...

After you clean the insides of the rotor thoroughly, BEFORE applying ANY grease, try to twist around on the races in the rotor, make sure they do NOT spin in the rotor, IF the y do spin, it's telling you that a bearing was getting close to locking up!!! A new rotor maybe needed.

When you get the rotor (or hub with a drum on it), you do NOT torque the spindle nut to ANY spec, and leave it there!!! You do spin the rotor (or drum) until the spindle nut will NOT turn any more. No need to bear down on the spindle nut, spin the rotor/drum until the grease has completely compacted. THEN, back the spindle nut off about 1/8 of a turn. THis is NOT an exact thing. THe bearings will obviously heat up going down the road, and need a little room for expansion. Use good grease. synthetic grease is not needed. Grease used to say on the container if it was for disc brakes. I don't think that's something you need to look for these days. The grease needs to be high temperature, high pressure grease!!!

If you think this is overkill, tell me. I have no need for a bearing problem, EVER!!!

I really appreciate the detailed advice. I think I follow on the greasing part. Just to make sure I understand the spindle nut part. When I slide the rotor onto the spindle and put the nut on the spindle to hold it on, you’re saying don’t tighten it down? Spin it until it stops then back it off an 1/8 turn and leave it there?

[BigBird05]

Tighten the nut down to take the free play out of the rotor. You may need to tighten it down and spin the rotor more than once to get all of the play out. Then back the nut off till it just becomes loose. Now hand turn the nut till it just takes the slack out of the free play. If the hole for the cotter pin is ligned up with the hole in the spindle your good to go. If not back off the nut to align the 2 holes so you can install the cotter pin. NEVER tighten it to align the holes.

[Steeveedee]

Here are the bearing lash instructions from the service manual-

[68Gold/white]

Originally Posted by BigBird05

Tighten the nut down to take the free play out of the rotor. You may need to tighten it down and spin the rotor more than once to get all of the play out. Then back the nut off till it just becomes loose. Now hand turn the nut till it just takes the slack out of the free play. If the hole for the cotter pin is ligned up with the hole in the spindle your good to go. If not back off the nut to align the 2 holes so you can install the cotter pin. NEVER tighten it to align the holes.

Yes!!!
I left some of that detail out...LOL, was focused on grease...
Another tip. I clean the bearings as good as possible in solvent, THEN rinse them with starting fluid. Sounds odd, but the either leaves NO residue, and is cheap...of course it is mucho flammable...

[Bigdav160]

and a LOT of grease inside the rotor between the 2 races.

That's just wasting grease as it does nothing.