how can I fix this

[Rickysnickers]

My driver's door sticks out about 3/8-1/2" on the rear part of the door. I tried adjusting the striker plate on the cab side of the jamb, but that didn't do anything. Thank you.

[gigamanx]

If it helps, I have a thread from a week ago asking a questions very similar.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=757421

What I've been able to determine for mine is that the strike plate needs a spacer to push it out towards the door just a little more. The latch isn't going into the second position, so the door ends up sitting about where yours is.

[Rickysnickers]

Mine is a '57. Are the striker plates and whatnot similar enough to the ADs that this will work? I read your thread and it says something about a two position latch. When you close the door, there should be a "second" catch of the latch?

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Mine is a '57. Are the striker plates and whatnot similar enough to the ADs that this will work? I read your thread and it says something about a two position latch. When you close the door, there should be a "second" catch of the latch?

Ahh, not sure if they are similar for the 57. The first latch is the bottom one the second latch is the big L shape piece on the top. My drivers side, the second latch doesn't engage leaving the door about 1/2" open. The passenger side works and I noticed this weekend it has a couple of shims behind it. Thinking I need to shim mine on the drivers side.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

When you close the door, there should be a "second" catch of the latch?

yes. there is a second catch of the latch
you can try latching the door manually with it open to see the second position
if you have newer door rubber it may be preventing the door from fully latching
a hard slam with follow thru of the hand pressure may latch it :caution: it may be very hard to unlatch

this is under the assumption you have newer repop latches
if you have the original latches they may just be worn slap out

[dsraven]

like ogre says, inform us as to what you have there.
new door rubber is a common problem with the door latch not catching on the secondary part. the rubber is fairly hard from some manufacturers and doesn't let the door close tight enough because the rubber won't compress enough. check to see if the latch is actually making it to the secondary position and if not then remove the rubber and set the door up to latch properly. re-install thr rubber and if it is keeping the door slightly open then it is a rubber issue. try sofseal for some squishy seals.

[mr48chev]

Had to save the photo and turn it upright to see what the heck I was looking at.

I'd check for wear in both parts of the latch before doing much trying to adjust anything. My 77 is doing about the same thing and the latch is worn out.

[Rickysnickers]

I have newer seals. They are Steele seals (say that three times fast ). With that said, the door was the same, before I put the seals on. I will do as Orge says and report back. Thank you all.

[Rickysnickers]

The latch is working properly. I held the door open and both detents in the latch are working. I held the door open and checked that way. There is some wear on the door side of the latch but it seems odd that the door won't close all the way just due to a little wear.

[dsraven]

slowly close the door and listen to see if you are actually getting to the secondary latch. the initial latch detent is like the hood safety, not meant to drive around like that. you should be able to get the door to latch so the body lines up on the outside, if not then remove the rubber and adjust the door so it closes properly, then install the rubber. if it doesn't latch after the rubber install then you may need some softer rubber. my buddy had the same issue with a '54. he ended up with softseal rubber and it made all the difference in the world.
-check hinges for wear and repair as required
-adjust hinges to get the door gaps consistent to your standards. leave the latch/striker out for this part to ensure the latch is not drawing the door up or down upon door closing. also leave the door rubber seals out for this section because they can impede the door fitment process
-check the latches, striker plates, linkages and handle mechanisms for wear and repair as required, assemble to the doors and pillars
-adjust the strikers to get the door to close properly and completely on the secondary latch
-install the door rubber seals

that is the system that works for me. getting the door to fit minus all the hardware so it simply swings easily in the opening and the gaps are appropriate to my standards, without latches holding anything. then the latches go in to adjust the door closing fitment, then the rubber goes in to seal the whole thing. sorta like installing a door in a building, you would get the door swinging in the opening properly first then put the latch, stops and seals in.

[dsraven]

if the latch is worn out you may be hitting the secondary part but then the mechanism, being worn, is allowing it to move backwards so the door opens slightly. this would allow the door to appear like it isn't totally latched even if it is hitting the secondary. maybe something to check as well? just because you can feel 2 detents doesn't mean the latch isn't worn out.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

The latch is working properly. I held the door open and both detents in the latch are working. I held the door open and checked that way. There is some wear on the door side of the latch but it seems odd that the door won't close all the way just due to a little wear.

If your latch is working, why are you buying new ones?

You mentioned you have new rubber, does the door shut hard like it isn't "mashing" the rubber in properly? If you simply remove the striker and push the door shut closing up that gap, does it do it easily or are you having to PUSH real hard to get the door in where it belongs?

If that is the case the rubber may be the biggest reason, either improperly installed or it simply isn't mashing down because it's more dense rubber than originally and I have found that to be the truth many times.

When I install new rubber I do so AFTER the door is aligned. I then if the rubber is denser and not allowing the door to close easily I move the striker out or just let it close on the first latch and leave it there a few days mashing the rubber a little bit, then after a few days close it all the way to mash the rubber in the rest of the way. Then a few days later the door opens and closes properly because the rubber has been compressed a bit.

But honestly, if the latch works properly why replace them, something else is wrong.

Brian

[_Ogre]

the repop door latches and striker plates are reasonably priced
if your dealing with original equipment your better of replacing them

[Rickysnickers]

Thank you all!!

[dsraven]

did you get it figured out? latches, strikers, hinges, rubber?

[Rickysnickers]

Going to mess around with it this weekend and see how it turns out. At this point, I'm thinking about a new latch and striker plate.

[dsraven]

found the write up I was looking for on the hotrod network

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1205c...-door-install/

maybe help? too late?

[dsraven]

here is another explanation of gaps and door adjustment

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1304c...it-sheetmetal/

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by dsraven

found the write up I was looking for on the hotrod network

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/1205c...-door-install/

maybe help? too late?

Never too late! I found that one as well. Thanks!! BTW, after fiddling around with it, I just decided to order some new latches and striker plates. They should show up next week.

[_Ogre]

good place to start
no sense making worn out parts fit
back in the 70s and 80s we only had junkyard parts available

[Rickysnickers]

Valid questions Brian. When I got the truck, it had old rubber. The door still did not close all the way. I looked at the latch and there was some wear in the middle where it was catching the striker plate. Even though I was able to get the latch to work in both positions with the door open, I am not confident that it's working properly when I close the door. As Ogre said, they aren't horrendously expensive so I thought I would give the ones a shot. I will take a photo of the old latch tomorrow and let you guys tell me what you all think.

[dsraven]

if you close the door really slow and listen you can likely hear the latch click once for the first phase and again for the second phase. after it clicks past the second phase then the door should not come back outward very much. if it does then look to see what is worn out.

[Rickysnickers]

I wanted to update this thread. I purchased the new latches and striker plates. Ogre is the winner!!! I put them on and the door no longer requires slamming and it is completely closed. There is no more gap.

[_Ogre]

thanks for the update
probably didn't realise how worn out the latches and strikers were until you compared the 2