Pulling dents?

[svr]

My TF drivers door that has had the inside front corner between the hinges pushed back about 3/4". No good way to get inside to hammer back out so am wondering about the welded pin and back hammer approach. It is a fairly tight bend and is about a foot long. Will probably tale a bunch of pins maybe every 1/2" or so to get it pulled. Have no experience with this method so wave me off the track if i'm missing something. Another approach may be to drill some 1/4" holes every 2-3" and make a backup piece for the inside that i can thread a bolt to through the hole and back hammer that, pulling more even on the panel bend. All thoughts and ideas appreciated. Thanks

[nsb29]

A little heat can help not to much you don’t want to pull your metal apart pictures help

[B. W.]

Once you use a stud puller you'll wonder how you lived without it! You can pull some bad dents on panels that should have been cut out & replaced.

[BAM55]

Originally Posted by B. W.

Once you use a stud puller you'll wonder how you lived without it! You can pull some bad dents on panels that should have been cut out & replaced.

Yep, I agree

SVR the great thing about a stud puller is no welding holes after you've pull the dent. You simple cut the stem and grind it flush when done. Just take you time and do a little at a time. They work great I have a cheap Harbor Freight one it gets the job done. The only thing I don't like about it is the puller slips sometimes so what I did was modified some grip pliers to screw into the puller now its a winner.

[ryans69chevy]

Originally Posted by BAM55

Yep, I agree

SVR the great thing about a stud puller is no welding holes after you've pull the dent. You simple cut the stem and grind it flush when done. Just take you time and do a little at a time. They work great I have a cheap Harbor Freight one it gets the job done. The only thing I don't like about it is the puller slips sometimes so what I did was modified some grip pliers to screw into the puller now its a winner.

What's the trick to using it? I have a harbor freight one as well and I have horrible luck with it. The studs always break off when I go to pull. I've tried a few different ways and nothing works. Finally just put it away and welded screws with washers to pull with.

[sick472]

The cheaper guns will have a smaller transformer that produces the "heat". A long or light duty extension cord will reduce the gun's ability to create the butt weld. Make sure the metal is free of paint and rust, eliminate long or light duty extension cords, and hlod the trigger down longer if needed.

[B. W.]

Go with the biggest diameter studs you can use. These trucks have real metal. The small studs work great on newer sheet metal. I had to switch to 2.5 mm studs.

Also, play around with the "trigger time". It won't hold well with too short of a burst.

[BAM55]

Originally Posted by B. W.

Go with the biggest diameter studs you can use. These trucks have real metal. The small studs work great on newer sheet metal. I had to switch to 2.5 mm studs.

Also, play around with the "trigger time". It won't hold well with too short of a burst.

This and good, clean rust free metal helps.

[svr]

I bought the HF stud gun. Took a bit to figure out the proper time to hold the button. I used the bigger studs that came with the gun and had to hold the button for about a 4 count to get them welded good. It worked, i welded studs about as close together as i could and started pulling. Just worked my way up the line a couple hits on each one and then come back and do it again. I popped some of the studs off pulling on them, had to reweld several. In the end i got it out about as far as i could with the puller. The dent was right on the corner of the door so i used a big hammer to hit on the opposite side of the studs and it fell right into place. Trying to fine tune the places the studs pulled small rises in the metal i couldnt get a dolly inside the door behind them so i tapped them down and rewelded studs in different places to pull the low spots. The gun came with a hundred studs and i used over half of them doing this. I did pull a hole in 1 place when i wanted just abit more so i know it can be done with the little back hammer it comes with. Sorry didnt take time to get any pics as i went. A little putty and will look like new.

[B. W.]

I also use a Steck stud lever a lot. It allows you to control the amount of pull. Use with a hammer (like off-dolly work) It helps prevent "over pull". There may be some better ones out there, the Steck feels cheap, sometimes slips & I'll pry so hard at times I worry about breaking the handle.

I've also taken some 1" square stock, drilled a large hole in one side, small hole in the other & used it as a standoff with a pop rivet gun. (the rivet gun fits in the large hole, stud pin goes through the small hole.) I use wood blocks to get the correct working height. It gives you a lot of control & you can really work the surrounding area with a hammer.

I have pics of it on my work computer, I'll post some later.

One other thing, the studs I use have a little bump on the very end of them. They weld on much stronger than the round head studs especially down in the lowest part of the dent / crease.

https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Shot-110...motive&sr=1-18

[pwdcougar]

I picked up a Shoot Suit stud puller and love it. It seems to be a modified pop rivet gun.