Info needed Re: How to custom chasis?

[pgf545]

Errrrrrr...yeah,,,,I made a mistake...oops...I did have it in there upside down but it was only tacked. Seems like I can't read directions, but I got it all taken care of before I totally screwed it up. That is why I am not a professional....

I am not sure about the 4 link setup cause we are running leaf springs. If you are serious about the progressive setup then I would give them a call and see if they make anything that you could add to accomplish that. Other than that I would look at others builds on here and see what they have done. The best part about building one of these trucks is someone on this great site has either done it or is about to so it so you are in good company. Even if you don't copy someone else's idea exactly it will inspire your own ideas and that is the fun part.

Bernie

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by pgf545

Errrrrrr...yeah,,,,I made a mistake...oops...I did have it in there upside down but it was only tacked. Seems like I can't read directions, but I got it all taken care of before I totally screwed it up. That is why I am not a professional....

I am not sure about the 4 link setup cause we are running leaf springs. If you are serious about the progressive setup then I would give them a call and see if they make anything that you could add to accomplish that. Other than that I would look at others builds on here and see what they have done. The best part about building one of these trucks is someone on this great site has either done it or is about to so it so you are in good company. Even if you don't copy someone else's idea exactly it will inspire your own ideas and that is the fun part.

Bernie

You got it right in the end, that's the bottom line.
I just talked to my instructor and he advise me to use 2", .120 wall tubes.
Do you know what size the tubes are on yours?
We also figured out how to make the triangulated 4 link work by using a combination of the info you and DWCSR provided and use of some 2" Schedule 40 pipes.

For the 4 Link we'll use 1 1/4" with 1/8" wall.
I need to know the length of the 4 Link tubes? DWCSR can you get those?

Tri5

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd

You got it right in the end, that's the bottom line.
I just talked to my instructor and he advise me to use 2", .120 wall tubes.
Do you know what size the tubes are on yours?
We also figured out how to make the triangulated 4 link work by using a combination of the info you and DWCSR provided and use of some 2" Schedule 40 pipes.

For the 4 Link we'll use 1 1/4" with 1/8" wall.
I need to know the length of the 4 Link tubes? DWCSR can you get those?

Tri5

2" is going to be very large and very hard to work with. I'd suggest 1.5" or 1.75" .120 wall as the largest. I personally would use HREW tubing vs. the more expensive DOM tubing, mainly because of cost, and the fact that it won't see excessive loads or come in contact with anything that would harm the tubing. You can get a tighter radius on the bends with the smaller diameter tubing as well. I've done quite a bit of fabrication with tube for off-road rigs and custom suspensions.

I also ONLY use DOM tubing on suspension links. Here I'd use 1.5 or 1.75" .120 wall for the lowers and you could do 1.25" on the uppers. As far as how long the links need to be, that depends on a lot of things but on a truck like these, they really don't have to be very long. 20" from center to center of the joints should be plenty if it's set up correctly.

Hope this helps.

[IvelDesigns]

I am using .125" plate to box my frame. I won't be at 500rwhp, but maybe some day I will. Here's a shot of how my rear 4-link ended up. I do need to relocate the bridge cross member so it clears the pumpkin though.

Oh, and there are more pics over in my build thread. link is in my sig.

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

2" is going to be very large and very hard to work with. I'd suggest 1.5" or 1.75" .120 wall as the largest. I personally would use HREW tubing vs. the more expensive DOM tubing, mainly because of cost, and the fact that it won't see excessive loads or come in contact with anything that would harm the tubing. You can get a tighter radius on the bends with the smaller diameter tubing as well. I've done quite a bit of fabrication with tube for off-road rigs and custom suspensions.

I also ONLY use DOM tubing on suspension links. Here I'd use 1.5 or 1.75" .120 wall for the lowers and you could do 1.25" on the uppers. As far as how long the links need to be, that depends on a lot of things but on a truck like these, they really don't have to be very long. 20" from center to center of the joints should be plenty if it's set up correctly.

Hope this helps.

On my way to get the materials needed today I stopped at No Limit and talked to the guys there, told them what I wanted to do and they recommended 1.5" .120 wall tubing and 1.25" .120 wall DOM for the 4 link.

They told me that the Triangulated 4 link is not the best solution for the trucks, there can be binding based on how low I want to get.
They suggest a Parrallel 4 link instead.

What you guys opinions on the 4 link situation?

Tri5

[tubbed55]

I used 3/16 on my boxing plates also. I used the original frame rails also. My Wheels are 15X14 and the tires are 31X18.5X15.

[joeys66pickup]

dear god thats beautiful!

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd

On my way to get the materials needed today I stopped at No Limit and talked to the guys there, told them what I wanted to do and they recommended 1.5" .120 wall tubing and 1.25" .120 wall DOM for the 4 link.

They told me that the Triangulated 4 link is not the best solution for the trucks, there can be binding based on how low I want to get.
They suggest a Parrallel 4 link instead.

What you guys opinions on the 4 link situation?

Tri5

I wouldn't be afraid of the triangulated, I'm actually running that on my Jeep and I max out my 13" travel shocks with no binding...

What I would make the decision based upon would be the packaging....what will fit the best in your truck with your frame and your gas tank. One style or the other might fit better with your springs (or bags), your shocks, your exhaust, how much you can afford to lose of the bed, etc... I would also probably stay away from heim joints, as the travel they afford isn't really needed in this application and they do have some maintenance issues when they start to wear.

[newagecustom]

I build c10 chassis, 4 links, etc. I make all my 4 links from 1 1/4 .120 DOM. All my frame x-members are 1 1/2 .120. As far as boxing the frame i would use 1/8 plate, easier to weld and closer to the thickness of the stock rails.

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

I wouldn't be afraid of the triangulated, I'm actually running that on my Jeep and I max out my 13" travel shocks with no binding...

What I would make the decision based upon would be the packaging....what will fit the best in your truck with your frame and your gas tank. One style or the other might fit better with your springs (or bags), your shocks, your exhaust, how much you can afford to lose of the bed, etc... I would also probably stay away from heim joints, as the travel they afford isn't really needed in this application and they do have some maintenance issues when they start to wear.

I understand what you're saying, I know that I will not be able to run my exhaust over the axel due to the size and where the bags are going to be located, I have a 4 link on the truck now but the problem that this one presents is that the parrallel bars sits directly under the frame, so if I was to lower the chasis the frame would hit, I can't bring it on the inside of the frame because a cross bracket is revited to the spot where the 4 link front from bracket would go. So that why I want to just do the triangulated one.

I think I got it that the Trinagulated top bars need to be no more that 20" long and installed at close to a 45* angle, if that's so what length should the lower bar be? 30"?

Tri5

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd

I understand what you're saying, I know that I will not be able to run my exhaust over the axel due to the size and where the bags are going to be located, I have a 4 link on the truck now but the problem that this one presents is that the parrallel bars sits directly under the frame, so if I was to lower the chasis the frame would hit, I can't bring it on the inside of the frame because a cross bracket is revited to the spot where the 4 link front from bracket would go. So that why I want to just do the triangulated one.

I think I got it that the Trinagulated top bars need to be no more that 20" long and installed at close to a 45* angle, if that's so what length should the lower bar be? 30"?

Tri5

Can you post a picture of what you have now? That might help us in making valuable suggestions for you. I'm assuming there isn't any room outside the frame to do links, is this correct?

45* is a baseline for your uppers, I've built a lot of link setups and used a lot of different angles, and they pretty much all work to locate the axle side-to-side...there again it's mainly a matter of what fits with your setup. I actually like to make my uppers longer than my lowers, mainly because if you look at it from the side and get your old geometry notes out...equal length uppers and lowers with triangulated uppers would be effectively shorter as viewed from the side. A lot of hot rod setups use equal length uppers and lowers on parallel 4 bar setups - this results in very little (if any) pinion angle change through the cycle. This can be a good thing if you don't have an extraordinary amount of travel and you'd like to drive it at several different ride heights with bags (for driveshaft vibration reasons).

Oh yeah, and I'd use 1/8" to box the frame, any thicker than that and you're just adding weight unnecessarily.

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

I wouldn't be afraid of the triangulated, I'm actually running that on my Jeep and I max out my 13" travel shocks with no binding...

What I would make the decision based upon would be the packaging....what will fit the best in your truck with your frame and your gas tank. One style or the other might fit better with your springs (or bags), your shocks, your exhaust, how much you can afford to lose of the bed, etc... I would also probably stay away from heim joints, as the travel they afford isn't really needed in this application and they do have some maintenance issues when they start to wear.

I understand what you're saying, I know that I will not be able to run my exhaust over the axel due to the size and where the bags are going to be located, I have a 4 link on the truck now but the problem that this one presents is that the parrallel bars sits directly under the frame, so if I was to lower the chasis the frame would hit, I can't bring it on the inside of the frame because a cross bracket is revited to the spot where the 4 link front from bracket would go. So that why I want to just do the triangulated one.

I think I got it that the Trinagulated top bars need to be no more that 20" long and installed at close to a 45* angle, if that's so what length should the lower bar be? 30"?

Tri5

[Tri5Nerd]

Sorry aboutt he double post.

Here are s few pictures of my setup. Should I just try to move the parrallel bars inward?

[BlueJeep]

How low are you planning on going with it? I'm wondering how low you can go before those frame mounted brackets sit on the ground. Did you mention that you're going to be using shockwaves?

You might mock it up at the future ride height (removing upper links if necessary) and then see what it looks like. That might also dictate how the new suspension will have to go. You might have to move the links in and up on the frame end if you're going a lot lower than it is now.

I would also make that track bar longer, build a new mount on the passenger side of the axle tube and get it as long as you can within the frame.

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

How low are you planning on going with it? I'm wondering how low you can go before those frame mounted brackets sit on the ground. Did you mention that you're going to be using shockwaves?

You might mock it up at the future ride height (removing upper links if necessary) and then see what it looks like. That might also dictate how the new suspension will have to go. You might have to move the links in and up on the frame end if you're going a lot lower than it is now.

I would also make that track bar longer, build a new mount on the passenger side of the axle tube and get it as long as you can within the frame.

That is why I wanted to scrap this one and build on like this which allow me to go lower without worrying about the bracket hitting the ground.

[BlueJeep]

Yep, I see that now and would agree. Starting from scratch should get you exactly what you want.