Info needed Re: How to custom chasis?

[Tri5Nerd]

So I got no answer when I posted this in the Suspension forum, I guess I must have said something wrong.

"I'll be boxing my frame in the next few months, I have access to all needed tools at school.
The frame already has a early 70's camaro clip, and I'll be installing bags all around. Already have Shockwave to install at all four corners with a Heidt's 4 link on a narrowed 9" rearend.

I want to replace all the cross members out and notch and box the frame, I've seen this done on other year trucks with tubes.

Please post the type and thickness of tubes to use, also post pics so I can get some ideas of how to really do this correctly one time.
I'll pushing ~500RWHP and torque with this setup thus it needs to be able to take the punishment."

Tri5

[Kim57]

Tri5
Not sure if this will help but my back-half was built with 2x4 rectangular stock 1/8" thick.
The round cross braces are 1.5".
When I set up for the trans I'm going to do an X frame for added stiffness.
Kim

[Tri5Nerd]

That's what I'm looking for, however I want to keep the existing frame and box it then put a X member in to replace the cross braces, something like a )=( on the inside of the frame, and notch the back half but not as big as you have done.
Is 1/8" plate good enough for boxing?

[blackdiesel]

IMO, you will have to narrow the rearend (as Kim did )to even think about hookin 500 rwhp. All you can do with stock frame and fenders is 8" rims and tires

[Kim57]

I think you will be fine boxing it with 1/8". That's what mine was done with. If you have any doubts you could do it with 3/16".
Any thicker and it starts getting real heavy and difficult to work with.
Kim

[ChuckDriver]

You can put more than a 8in rim with the stock width frame. I have 10's on the back of mine and I've seen 12's.

Here are a couple of pics of a frame from another board member, sorry I don't remember his name but he has a build thread. His frame boxing and bracing look very strong!!

[dwcsr]

These may be of help. I did this truck a few years ago. It doesn't show the C notch but thats the easy part. The bottom one is how I did the air piping and valves.

http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.c...%20suspension/

http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.c...r%20airvalves/

[blackdiesel]

My bad, 8" rims with out tubbing the bed. I was thinking of our tri-5 cars the frame and springs will hit with over 8" rims.

[dwcsr]

I think mine are 10" with a 13.5 tread width and a 15" section. As you can see I have room for wider tires. I did narrow the rear to 54".

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

These may be of help. I did this truck a few years ago. It doesn't show the C notch but thats the easy part. The bottom one is how I did the air piping and valves.

http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.c...%20suspension/

http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.c...r%20airvalves/

This is what I want to do. Do you mind me patterning my work off you? Looking at the pics, did you make your 4 link?

I like the way you boxed and brace the frame, but I want to make my brace with the hump at the top like the one from ChuckDrivr's post above or with a driveshaft loop.

What size tubing did you use? 2x4 or something smaller?

BTW: My rear tires are 15x16x31, those are some big suckers and I want to use bags, I must be crazy?


Tri5

[cajundragger]

my frame is boxed with 3/16. I think you'll be fine with 1/8 though.

[mr48chev]

One of my running buddies has had this truck for years and is building a new chassis to handle a stout big block. This back half of the frame won't work for everyone but It might give you some ideas.
His truck is a bit different than most in that it sits very low and doesn't use running boards. The bed is the back section of the bed (middle post back) off a 3/4 ton that I bought to get the cab.

http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w...y%2048%20Chev/

[bondobob]

I'm the guy doing the truck in ChuckDrivers post. I boxed with 3/16" plate and used 3/16" wall tubing. The frame is only about .140" (from what I remember) but the Fat Man front crossmember is 1/4" thick and I thought it would be better welding 1/4 to 3/16 than 1/4 to 1/8. I do wish I went a little thinner on the crossmembers but with a big block I figured what the hell. All told I would guess I added 100 LBS to the frame. Even though I haven't finished the extreme front and rear crossmembers it is very stiff. Fully assembled with motor and trans you can jack up one corner and the whole end will come up with it. (no twisting) Stiff is good. I've gone through a divorce (after 28 years) and moved to a new house so the truck will wait until this fall.

[Tri5Nerd]

Thanks guys, There is a big weight difference between 1/8 and 3/16" I have a couple 3/16" plates at home and looked at the 1/8" plates lastnight, I'm not too sure about using 1/8" to box then using a 3/16" wall tube, wouldn't that put more stress on the 1/8" plates where the tube is welded to it, once HP and Torque is applied?

Tri5

[1-ton of fun]

3/16" would be better then to match the thickness of your cross-members

my truck is a 3/4 ton, so my frame rails are 0.25" so that helps me out, but i am boxing with 1/8". if i didn't already have the steel, and was planning on putting a real monster motor in the truck, then i would have gone with 3/16"

one fyi, i got my steel from onlinemetals.com and was able to order it already cut down to fit inside of the c-channel, 5.5" wide i think, instead of the standard 6" size. that will save me some time, and i would never be able to easily cut it perfectly straight like they did.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd

This is what I want to do. Do you mind me patterning my work off you? Looking at the pics, did you make your 4 link?

I like the way you boxed and brace the frame, but I want to make my brace with the hump at the top like the one from ChuckDrivr's post above or with a driveshaft loop.

What size tubing did you use? 2x4 or something smaller?

BTW: My rear tires are 15x16x31, those are some big suckers and I want to use bags, I must be crazy?


Tri5

Feel free to use what you need. I got the boxing plates at http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/. Bob from progressive automotive some times posts here. They were reasonable in price and shipping. The 4 link was an Air Ride setup. I'll have to measure the tubing I forgot what I used.

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Feel free to use what you need. I got the boxing plates at http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/. Bob from progressive automotive some times posts here. They were reasonable in price and shipping. The 4 link was an Air Ride setup. I'll have to measure the tubing I forgot what I used.

Ideas are just flowing through my head now, that site has the round tubular setup, will that reduce weight? How would it hold up to the pressure.

See pics:

[Coronas56]

I used 11 guage, 1 1/2 tubes, boxed the chassis front to back, Strong enough for 500 hp, yet light ..........http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=260417

[Kabwe]

Tri5Nerd,

You make fun of me and my changes well welcome to the dark side.lol On this side we take 10 times longer to finish a project due to all the changes.lol We're not alone Coronas56 is also a member. I'm sure there are many more.lol

[Coronas56]

But is done right and how we want it! Right? Lol

[Kabwe]

Originally Posted by Coronas56

But is done right and how we want it! Right? Lol

Well in my case its done, I don't know about right.lol

[Tri5Nerd]

I'm sorry if I ever made fun of you! LOL. Now I see what you've been talking about. I just want it done and done right.

Coronas56, Thanks for the info..More work to do now.

Tr5

[pgf545]

I did the Progressive kit. We bought the boxing kit and also the x member. Really nice piece. I have some pictures on my build thread. If you have any questions let me know.

Bernie

[Coronas56]

Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd

I'm sorry if I ever made fun of you! LOL. Now I see what you've been talking about. I just want it done and done right.

Coronas56, Thanks for the info..More work to do now.

Tr5

You're welcome

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by pgf545

I did the Progressive kit. We bought the boxing kit and also the x member. Really nice piece. I have some pictures on my build thread. If you have any questions let me know.

Bernie

Bernie,

Checked out your build thread once more and saw what you did with the frame, great job!
In some of the earlier pics it looked like you had the kit tacked in upside down? Never the less great job and if it holds 500 HP then it might be the way to go.

How would you add say a triangulated 4 link using this kit?

Tri5