The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-22-2002, 08:27 PM   #1
Relay
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: New Ulm, MN USA
Posts: 71
Question Frame sandblasting

Can a frame with all front end components ie ball joints etc etc...be sandblasted without ruining these parts?
__________________
71 GMC 1/2 frame up restore in progress!
Relay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2002, 08:53 PM   #2
slam33
Registered User
 
slam33's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Long Beach, Ca
Posts: 1,432
Post

I wouldn't want to. Best thing to do is build a stand so you can roll it around. Pull that stuff off, unless your going to rebuild everything when you get it back

------------------
71 basic C-10 350. The only option is the rust.No nothing on it, but thats all about to change. <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

</A>
__________________
71 LWB 350/350still working on it but it's going tp be sweet. www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html

" TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

</A>
slam33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2002, 08:56 PM   #3
wlee
Just an Old Mr Goodwrench
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Green Ridge, MO USA
Posts: 259
Post

You can . . . but the rubber boots on all the joints will collect sand & should be thouroughly cleaned after the blasting process. You'll need to curl up the boots and use a high pressure spray cleaner (Brakleen works great). I just finished a major blasting job and was able to get all the sand out without any problem. You should grease the hell out of the joints when you're finished & this should push out any sand you've missed.

Another, and probably better, option would be to use black slag for your media. It's as abrasive as sand, won't get wet & sticky in humid weather, and it's not as much of o problem if you don't do a good job on your clean-up. Happy blasting! Lee

------------------
1969 Custom 20 Longhorn
1970 CST 20 Fleetside
1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe
1991 Jaguar Sovereign
1992 Mazda Miata
1969 Triumph Bonneville
1964 Harley Sportster
__________________
1969 CST 20 Longhorn
1970 CST 20 Fleetside
1991 Jaguar Sovereign
1992 Mazda Miata
wlee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2002, 09:10 PM   #4
da-burb
"Ochre Ogre"
 
da-burb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Springfield, MN
Posts: 3,558
Post

Years ago I had a 65 Impala frame sand blasted. The guy doing the work kept away from all of those areas. Even if you don't blast the rubber boots to pieces you can end up with sand in the grease which will make a short life for ball joints and tie-rod ends.

Is this something you will be doing with a home blaster or are you taking it to a pro? I think you could do some finesse blasting with a home sized blaster by using duct tape and strips of tin to shield the rubber. parts.

------------------
1971 C-10 Suburban
1972 C-10 Suburban
1969 XL Galaxie Fastback
1968 Galaxie 500 Fastback
1974 SCOUT II

Montrose, Minnesota


__________________

Bowtie Truck Stop Inc.
Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier
Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn,
and Goodmark dealer.
like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop

1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre)
1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre)
1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre)
1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!)

Springfield, Minnesota 56087
da-burb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2002, 09:15 PM   #5
hobby67stepside
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 952
Post

I think you will be much more satisfied if you take the time to disassemble everything. The blasting will get all components clean, you can paint, and then reassemble and you will like the results.
__________________
  • '05 2500 HD Silverado 6.0 liter
    '97 2500 4X4 454 eng
    '92 2500 4X4 350 eng
    '78 K20 4X4 400 eng
    '70 Boss 302 (owner for 27 years)
    '57 Ford shortbox 383 stroker TH350 tranny
    '23 T-bucket (built in '78)
    '02 Explorer
    '67 C-10 short step
NW Iowa
hobby67stepside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2002, 09:30 PM   #6
busterwivell
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA
Posts: 2,033
Post

I don't think I'd try to shortcut it. If you are doing a frame off, you're going to go through everything anyway, right? You'll be a lot happier in the end if you take them off before the fun begins. JMO
__________________
Bill - Tucson, AZ
47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan
56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan
66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed
71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn
86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold)
01 Chevrolet Tahoe
IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com
busterwivell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2002, 10:28 PM   #7
Gee_Emm
Account Suspended
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
Post

I wouldnt risk it either, it would be next to impossible to remove all the sand from inside of the joints once its all done.

------------------
1969 Chevrolet Custom Camper 20 350/400 70k original miles

They have the Internet on Computers now? --Homer Simpson


Gee_Emm's Page

Help me get my truck on a soda bottle!!!!!


Gee_Emm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2002, 11:31 PM   #8
BubbaGreen
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 686
Post

Ya, my vote is to take it apart....
Just think, if you decide not too, then have
the parts fail early...and you end up back
in there doing it all again. Not Fun! It
doesnt take much sand in a grease joint to
wreck havock...Do it once....Do it right!
you be *very* glad in the end!
Cheers!

------------------
71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside WAS:307w/3-on-the-tree NOW:350TBI/700R4/3.73
See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich

__________________
71 Chevy C-10 SWB Fleetside RamJet-350/4L60e & Compushift/3.73Posi
See it at www.prismnet.com/~grzanich
BubbaGreen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2002, 11:49 PM   #9
69 longhorn
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: rock island,il,usa
Posts: 5,382
Post

I vote take it apart also,sand & grease make one h#ll of a grinding compound.....69 longhorn.
__________________
http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn
69 longhorn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2002, 03:43 AM   #10
Relay
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: New Ulm, MN USA
Posts: 71
Wink

Taking it to the local "pro" sandblasting shop in town. Guess I shouldn't try skimping and cuttin corners and go ahead and replace them. Thinkin bout having them Blast then replace parts and then paint!
__________________
71 GMC 1/2 frame up restore in progress!
Relay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2002, 09:01 AM   #11
Gee_Emm
Account Suspended
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 4,002
Post

And if powdercoating is available in your area I would highly recommend that since you have the thing sand blasted already.

------------------
1969 Chevrolet Custom Camper 20 350/400 70k original miles

They have the Internet on Computers now? --Homer Simpson


Gee_Emm's Page

Help me get my truck on a soda bottle!!!!!


Gee_Emm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2002, 12:58 PM   #12
DarkFox1
in WAY over my head
 
DarkFox1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Douglasville GA
Posts: 923
Post

I agree with everything said, break it down, blast it all, put it back together, its well worth it. Think of that rust as a cancer :P if you miss 1 little spot of bare metal trying to cut corners, it will eat into your nice clean stuff (I've lost my mind thinking about it this way.. so on second thought dont think of it that way lol)

and.. yes.. powdercoating is a great idea HOWEVER, make sure before you get it done that you have gotten all the rust. I was going to have mine done, but then noticed a large rust deposite between 2 peices of the frame (spring pads and spring "tensioners" as I call them, the rear coil pads were eaten up and the pads on the inside were too) we had to drill these items rivets off, remove them, blast them individually, and then paint them off the frame before bolting them back on with grade 8s.

hope that helps, I've got some pics on my link of my frame blasted on the trailer if you want.

Good luck, yer doing the right thing by cosidering these methods IMO

------------------
Projects
Belair '71 C10 LWB to SWB conversion:C10 project page
65Chevelle pics coming soon


DarkFox1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com