Accuair problems

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68is4me

The Accuair system I have works great. I wouldn't go any other way. Accuair has a lot more good reviews than bad.

I also had the problem with battery draw and compressors that come on with the key off. When I called Accuair they said it will always have a draw and if it sits for over a week recommend installing a battery tender. As for the compressor coming on with key off he also said that if the battery was low when the key is turn off sometime the ecu will still have the compressor demand still active and might indeed start the comp with the key off. I just keep the battery charged and have had no issues since.

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

I have also experienced the battery drain problem. Now I just keep the battery tender on the suburban. It's been at least 2 years now of driving and I have had zero issues. I took my time a routed everything neatly. Also my controller is mounted not sliding around on the seat. I thought that the cable would eventually fail if left on the seat.

This is concerning. Always have a current draw? My dually w/the factory GM TBI ECU + stereo equipment + manual air-ride set-up could sit for a month & will pop off when the key is turned on.

I would like to switch to an automated system on my current build (couldn't afford it while building the dually & don't have the desire to pull it apart just for the automation). But, I don't want to deal w/unnecessary electrical issues because of it.

Why is there always a draw?

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

This is concerning. Always have a current draw? My dually w/the factory GM TBI ECU + stereo equipment + manual air-ride set-up could sit for a month & will pop off when the key is turned on.

I would like to switch to an automated system on my current build (couldn't afford it while building the dually & don't have the desire to pull it apart just for the automation). But, I don't want to deal w/unnecessary electrical issues because of it.

Why is there always a draw?

I was told that if you have the remote control key fob option (air up/down, with key off), that there is a 40 milliamp draw.

[AccuAir_Reno]

There are some great questions and great comments in this thread (BigMike and his Chia Pet example is my favorite).

- The e-Level system currently pulls 0.038 amps when the ignition is OFF (assuming the orange wire is actually wired properly to ignition). This current is required because we chose to leave the processor on all the time in order for the key-fob remotes to always work. This may evolve to shutting off after 24-48 hours in the future to get the current down to 0.002 amps or less.

- 0.038 amps is not enough to kill a good battery over any reasonable amount of time (months). But, when you have air compressor(s) that pull 26 amps a piece, keeping a good battery is hard to do. You can think of running your dual compressors like cranking your starter. Once you run your compressor(s) for a while without the engine running (not a great idea) your battery is going to be depleted. Alternators don't always top-off the battery charge especially at idle.

- When parking your truck for an extended period (even a week) the best thing for your batteries is to plug into a battery tender (40 bucks at any auto parts store). This will top-off your batteries from the compressor abuse and help them last as long as possible.

- In the early 2000s gel cell batteries were awesome. You could beat them up (draw them down to 9 volts or less), then charge them back to normal and they would hold it. This is no longer the case with the gel cells we have used. These days we use conventional lead acid batteries that have a good warranty and seem to get the best results.

A few of you have hit the nail on the head about air suspension in general. If you buy crappy product, then you are going to get crappy results. If you buy a great product and install it like crap you will still get crappy results. Me and my guys go to the end of the earth to help people through their installation mistakes. Unfortunately, the common attitude when people are having a problem is "your product is broken". Its best to keep in mind that we 100% test 100% of the product that we ship out the door (a rare investment in this industry). Its also good to remember that we have over 30,000 e-Level systems on the road at this point (thanks to many of you guys). No product is perfect and sxxt happens, but spend the time to do a good install, be patient if you are having a problem, and then enjoy the benefits.

Cheers

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by AccuAir_Reno

There are some great questions and great comments in this thread (BigMike and his Chia Pet example is my favorite).

- The e-Level system currently pulls 0.038 amps when the ignition is OFF (assuming the orange wire is actually wired properly to ignition). This current is required because we chose to leave the processor on all the time in order for the key-fob remotes to always work. This may evolve to shutting off after 24-48 hours in the future to get the current down to 0.002 amps or less.

- 0.038 amps is not enough to kill a good battery over any reasonable amount of time (months). But, when you have air compressor(s) that pull 26 amps a piece, keeping a good battery is hard to do. You can think of running your dual compressors like cranking your starter. Once you run your compressor(s) for a while without the engine running (not a great idea) your battery is going to be depleted. Alternators don't always top-off the battery charge especially at idle.

- When parking your truck for an extended period (even a week) the best thing for your batteries is to plug into a battery tender (40 bucks at any auto parts store). This will top-off your batteries from the compressor abuse and help them last as long as possible.

- In the early 2000s gel cell batteries were awesome. You could beat them up (draw them down to 9 volts or less), then charge them back to normal and they would hold it. This is no longer the case with the gel cells we have used. These days we use conventional lead acid batteries that have a good warranty and seem to get the best results.

A few of you have hit the nail on the head about air suspension in general. If you buy crappy product, then you are going to get crappy results. If you buy a great product and install it like crap you will still get crappy results. Me and my guys go to the end of the earth to help people through their installation mistakes. Unfortunately, the common attitude when people are having a problem is "your product is broken". Its best to keep in mind that we 100% test 100% of the product that we ship out the door (a rare investment in this industry). Its also good to remember that we have over 30,000 e-Level systems on the road at this point (thanks to many of you guys). No product is perfect and sxxt happens, but spend the time to do a good install, be patient if you are having a problem, and then enjoy the benefits.

Cheers

Is the key fob remote deal a must or can the set-up work w/o it? I have no need for such a feature.... especially one that results in a draw on my electrical system.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Is the key fob remote deal a must or can the set-up work w/o it? I have no need for such a feature.... especially one that results in a draw on my electrical system.

It's an option and it can be unplugged if you like. I'm going to try that on mine and see what difference it makes. I normally try to keep mine on a battery tender just to make sure I have no battery issues.

[AccuAir_Reno]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Is the key fob remote deal a must or can the set-up work w/o it? I have no need for such a feature.... especially one that results in a draw on my electrical system.

The draw isn't from the key-fob receiver. Its because we have to keep the ECU "awake" enough to listen to the key-fob inputs.

Again, 0.038 amps is not a large "drain", it is a very very small one. But, if having any drain doesn't work with your philosophy then you can always put a simple kill-switch in the main power wire to the ECU. The system won't loose its memory or anything like that, so we have had a handful of people choose to add a little toggle switch under the dash.

[smbrouss70]

Reno, I am about to install my E-level setup on my Blazer. Could I just run the power wire to a "Key-On" source, so that I don't have to remember to flip a toggle switch?

[AccuAir_Reno]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

Reno, I am about to install my E-level setup on my Blazer. Could I just run the power wire to a "Key-On" source, so that I don't have to remember to flip a toggle switch?

You would need to use a relay because the e-Level system pulls a maximum of 15 amps through the main power wire (i.e. the relay coil would get triggered on by your ignition 12V, the relay source would be the battery, and the relay output would be the e-Level power wire).

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by AccuAir_Reno

The draw isn't from the key-fob receiver. Its because we have to keep the ECU "awake" enough to listen to the key-fob inputs.

Again, 0.038 amps is not a large "drain", it is a very very small one. But, if having any drain doesn't work with your philosophy then you can always put a simple kill-switch in the main power wire to the ECU. The system won't loose its memory or anything like that, so we have had a handful of people choose to add a little toggle switch under the dash.

Got cha. Thanks for the explanation.

[smbrouss70]

Originally Posted by AccuAir_Reno

You would need to use a relay because the e-Level system pulls a maximum of 15 amps through the main power wire (i.e. the relay coil would get triggered on by your ignition 12V, the relay source would be the battery, and the relay output would be the e-Level power wire).

Got it. Thanks!

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by AccuAir_Reno

The draw isn't from the key-fob receiver. Its because we have to keep the ECU "awake" enough to listen to the key-fob inputs.

Again, 0.038 amps is not a large "drain", it is a very very small one. But, if having any drain doesn't work with your philosophy then you can always put a simple kill-switch in the main power wire to the ECU. The system won't loose its memory or anything like that, so we have had a handful of people choose to add a little toggle switch under the dash.

My bad on the incorrect gouge, I just thought you could unplug it and it would eliminate the draw. #footNmouth, . The new computer is working great, thanks again for all of the help, .