99 OBS crew cab short bed and need advice on replacing the cracked dash

[1774btcrew]

I just picked up a really nice 99 OBS crew cab short bed but the dash is cracked really bad. I pulled a replacement dash at the wrecking yard but it was a nightmare to do. Would like any pointers anyone has on putting this new one in.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by 1774btcrew

I just picked up a really nice 99 OBS crew cab short bed but the dash is cracked really bad. I pulled a replacement dash at the wrecking yard but it was a nightmare to do. Would like any pointers anyone has on putting this new one in.

Mine has a 12" square hole above the head unit, beat that!

So basically I'm in the same boat. I'm dying to find an unripped tan leather rear bench and new dash for my '98 extended cab. Thus I spent days looking for helpful videos and tutorials online about how to handle the dash swap, so I could then try to find a crack-free dash to swap in. And that's what I'll share with you, the cream from that hunt, right here:

Dash removal threads:
http://www.gmt400.com/threads/dash-replacement.17137/
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/c...hboard-removal

"Easy" dash removal video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jK82gX_SKQw

I hope it helps! Now if I could just find a crack-free dash and unripped rear leather tan folding bench seat to fit a 96-98 Sierra....

[SCOTI]

Thanks for posting the links. My 99 has the same exploded dash & requires replacement. Unfortunately.... it seems every freakin post-97 truck/Tahoe/burb w/this style dash I come across for parts here in the DFW area of TX is just as bad.

[speedygonzales]

Stop wasting a bunch of time with a dash that is just as warn out as your old one, it just looks better and get one of these to put over you old one.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cd/full.aspx?Page=59

[1774btcrew]

Originally Posted by speedygonzales

Stop wasting a bunch of time with a dash that is just as warn out as your old one, it just looks better and get one of these to put over you old one.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cd/full.aspx?Page=59

Thanks but I like to stick with OEM when I can.

[95 S_Trucker]

Get one from up north. I did an interior color change on my 99. The dash I took out wasn’t cracked, and the one I put in wasn’t cracked.

Changing the dash isn’t hard on these. The worst part is all the wires by the brake booster. Trucks with hydro boost are easier.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=681746

[sntrym95]

I had to swap the dash on my 95 Yukon (twice). It came from Texas like shifty's - with big square hole in it because some genius wanted a double DIN radio.

The dash is held in place by 4 nuts and 3 screws. It's easy to get out if you either a. remove the driver's seat or b. remove the steering wheel. I vote driver's seat since it's 4 bolts and a wiring harness (assuming power seat).

The 4 nuts that need to come off are 2 on the outside by the under dash lights and two on the steering column. Make sure you put the crossbar support back in after you remove it, otherwise you'll crack the dash. Ask me how I know.

Obviously the bezel, gauge cluster, radio, and HVAC controls have to come out, as well as the glove box. Once you have all that out, remove the nuts and 3 screws near the vents and the dash should tilt forward. The wiring harness is encased in a plastic conduit and it comes out somewhat easily.

The key is to get the dash to tilt all the way so it pops off the plastic bushings. Installation is the reverse of removal, and while you have it off clean the air ducts, they are dusty.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by speedygonzales

Stop wasting a bunch of time with a dash that is just as warn out as your old one, it just looks better and get one of these to put over you old one.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cd/full.aspx?Page=59

If there was a clean break between the cap & dash, I would potentially consider one. But to me, the caps typically look like a bad toupee and similar to the cheap carpet/headliner material looking 'covers'.

[speedygonzales]

Comparing the molded plastic covers to the carpet covers is like comparing tires to wagon wheels.

Carpets laid on top and you could see the edges. The molded plastic covers go all the way to the edge and you can't see the old piece beneath it. And since it can be (if you want the color to match) painted, it can also be protected from the suns rays.

The idea of replacing an old top with one just as old seems a bit futile to me.

The idea is to give the OP different ideas on how to deal with what he terms, a difficult task.

We now return control of this thread to the OP.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by speedygonzales

Comparing the molded plastic covers to the carpet covers is like comparing tires to wagon wheels.

Carpets laid on top and you could see the edges. The molded plastic covers go all the way to the edge and you can't see the old piece beneath it. And since it can be (if you want the color to match) painted, it can also be protected from the suns rays.

The idea of replacing an old top with one just as old seems a bit futile to me.

The idea is to give the OP different ideas on how to deal with what he terms, a difficult task.

We now return control of this thread to the OP.

Every single molded cover goes seemlessly to the edge & hides all damage? Every manufacturer?

The idea of replacing a factory dash (entire dash, not just the top) that is sun-damaged or broken w/another factory dash that has not been exposed to sun damage or other damages seems pretty logical to me. You know the OE dash is going to look, work, & fit just like your old broken OE dash.

With that said, I will again say thanks for the info & links provided during the discussion about "replacing a cracked dash".

[Tom]

Get the used good dash. Cover it in something. I went with Alcantera, because I'm fancy. Install covered dash. Never worry about cracks again, because you won't be able to see them under the wrap. Tada.

[shifty]

I've seen the dash overlays in person at my local high-end upholsterer's shop, wasn't impressed by the color and texture. Talked to the guy running the shop, he tells me people still ask about dash swaps instead because the skins are mediocre and just a bandaid for the larger problem.

When they get as bad as mine, we're beyond overlay terrain, it'll come off in weeks when the few pieces glued to the overlay come apart...

(I'm not exaggerating when I say I really, really need a new dash...!! The carpeted dash cover only does so much )

[1774btcrew]

There has been some good info posted here. I already have a good replacement dash. It was removed at a wrecking yard where I could cut the wires. I was looking for an easy way to unplug the fuse box so I can swap with the dash in hopes of it not cracking the replacement dash. When I pulled the wrecking yard one, there seemed to be quite a bit of tension on the wiring. To me it seems it would be easier to swap wiring with the dash out on the ground(I could be wrong)

[1774btcrew]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

Get one from up north. I did an interior color change on my 99. The dash I took out wasn’t cracked, and the one I put in wasn’t cracked.

Changing the dash isn’t hard on these. The worst part is all the wires by the brake booster. Trucks with hydro boost are easier.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=681746

I really like your truck. Mine is optioned about the same.

[95 S_Trucker]

When I pull the dash on these, I unhook all the wires by the convenience center/bulkhead connector, and push them on the interior side. I pull the dash with all of the wiring attached. That’s also how the service manual instructs as well.

[1774btcrew]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

When I pull the dash on these, I unhook all the wires by the convenience center/bulkhead connector, and push them on the interior side. I pull the dash with all of the wiring attached. That’s also how the service manual instructs as well.

Where is the plug? I thought I would have to unbolt the fuse box at the firewall

[flashed]

I have a dash for a 90 and up truck , I sold the truck before I used the dash .

[95 S_Trucker]

Originally Posted by 1774btcrew

Where is the plug? I thought I would have to unbolt the fuse box at the firewall

It’s a lot of plugs, 6-8 of them on the engine side, then the bulkhead connector gets unbolted and all the wiring gets pushed through to the interior. I think the fuse box stays with the dash when you pull it.

I’ll try to check again on Monday.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by flashed

I have a dash for a 90 and up truck , I sold the truck before I used the dash .

The dashes changed so "a 90 and up truck" isn't enough info. Need to know what year model range the donor vehicle was....

[1774btcrew]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

It’s a lot of plugs, 6-8 of them on the engine side, then the bulkhead connector gets unbolted and all the wiring gets pushed through to the interior. I think the fuse box stays with the dash when you pull it.

I’ll try to check again on Monday.

That sounds pretty involved actually! I guess I may be better off leaving the wiring attached

[KQQL IT]

If you ever get into the back brakes, a 1 ton dualie wheel cylinder helps the pedal and stopping.

[95 S_Trucker]

Originally Posted by 1774btcrew

That sounds pretty involved actually! I guess I may be better off leaving the wiring attached

This is what I do. Not necessarily in the exact order.


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s).
2. Disable the SIR system. Refer to Disabling the SIR System See: Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > Procedures.
3. Remove the three relay center bolts from the underside of the wheel opening.
4. Remove the bulkhead connector.
5. Remove the following components from the bulkhead connector:
- The screws from the convenience center to the cowl
- The cruise control harness (if equipped)
- The forward lamp harness
- The SIR system harness
- The relay center
6. Remove the coolant reservoir. Refer Coolant Recovery Reservoir Replacement See: Coolant Reservoir > Procedures.
7. Disconnect the antenna lead-in and the grommet.
8. Remove the knee bolster. Refer to Knee Bolster Replacement See: Knee Diverter > Procedures.
9. Remove the steering shaft pinch bolt.
10. Remove the left and the right sill plate front screw.
11. Remove the left and the right hinge pillar trim panels. Refer to Body Hinge Pillar Trim Panel Replacement See: Trim Panel > Removal and Replacement.
12. Remove the brake release handle from the cable.
13. Remove the reaction plate assembly.
14. Remove the tie bar.
15. Remove the knee deflector bracket.
16. Disconnect the 8-way column connector.
17. Disconnect the 48-way connector retainer in order to access the two lower column nuts.
18. Disconnect the shift cable (Automatic transmission).
19. Remove the steering column from the vehicle.
20. Remove the shift levers.
- Remove the transfer case knob by pulling the knob straight up. S4WD models must be in the 4-LO range.
- Remove the manual transmission shift lever (if equipped).
21. Remove the front floor console, if necessary.
22. Remove the left and the right lower IP pivot bolts.
23. Remove the IP storage compartment door.
24. Remove the IP storage compartment.
25. Remove the two IP attaching bolts through the storage compartment door.
26. Remove the center support screw.
27. Remove the three IP upper support screws.
28. Remove the IP from the front of the dash.
29. Disconnect the park brake lever. Refer to Parking Brake Lever Replacement See: Parking Brake Lever > Procedures.
30. Disconnect the following electrical connectors as necessary:
- The sensing and diagnostic module (SDM)
- The Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning module (HVACM)
- The 22-way engine harness
- The stoplamp switch
- The vehicle speed sensor (VSS) calibrator module
- The clutch or brake release switches
- The electronic accelerator (Diesel)
- The HVAC control cables (if equipped)
31. Remove the IP from the vehicle.

[Tom]

I've never had a problem removing or installing the dash on our trucks. Fuse box doesn't get removed. Had to do it 3 times due to various unrelated problems when putting my new wrapped dash in.