Project Christine V2.0

[Free Candy Inside]

How much did everything cost to do the impala rear discs?

[Mjminino]

Originally Posted by Free Candy Inside

How much did everything cost to do the impala rear discs?

1994 Impala SS Duralast Reman/Brake Caliper (C422 Drivers, C423 Passenger) - Rear - $66.99 x2 = $133.98 - Auto Zone
1994 Impala SS Duralast/Brake Rotor (55017) - Rear - $35.99 x2 = $71.98 - Auto Zone
Captian's Impala Brackets 70.00

[Mjminino]

Well ran into a problem.

Here is my problem, I acquired CPP's Deluxe Trac Bar Kit for my 64' (http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...k/6062DTBK.htm) in that big parts deal.

The instructions mentioned nothing of cutting rivets and re-welding the frame mount of the trac bar. Putting everything together the trac bar is no where near the upper mount. The trac bar is a double adjusting one. I am also using CPP's shock relocation kit, which you see beneath the silver bracket. Looking at picture 3 you might say that it looks tilted, which I can agree from the picture it kind of does look like that, but I assure you it isn't. Actually it can't be, I had the factory trac bar was in place so that's where the rear end had to be (left and right and tilted correctly). The springs are in place so the trailing arms are where they need to be which makes the rear end where it needs to be (front and back). Is there something I am missing?


I saw that CPP sold a bent trac bar that I was interested in and someone mentioned to me to just move the top frame mount to accommodate the trac bar. In the pictured scenario below, it is not hitting the factory trac bar mount on the rear end and mind you, we are not forcing the bar at all. That is simply where it goes when we lifted it up to the frame. Which is extremely weird because CPP's instructions mention using that mount and nothing of cutting or welding. (I know broken record right )

My question is: Is that a good thing to do? It puts it a pretty crazy angle. I am not opposed to doing that, it is just that the factory mounts are straight across from each other and I don't know if the trac bar can be at that far of an angle and still be efficient. Here are some pictures of my situation.

[Mjminino]

Here are some more pictures of my debacle I mean If I can just weld the upper bracket to accommodate the trac bar, I'm cool with that. I Just need someone knowledgeable on these bars to let me know If it being at that crazy of an angle is good, bad, $hitty, ETC

Thanks for all the help everyone through out my build so far, y'all are amazing!

[bj383ss]

Mike when I put my bar back on with poly mounts it wasn't as far off as yours but maybe half that much. My rearend was switched to a 70' but I think the bar is still the 64'. When you look at my bar mounted it is not parallel in the bracket on the frame. I didn't know at the time that the 64' had a different type of mount on the rearend. So I plan to order the bar you have there as I will be lowering the rear 4"

[Free Candy Inside]

I would just weld it up and mount it and then try and cycle the suspension to see if anything binds or if there is a problem. That or what about cutting the inside tab of the mounting bar at the trailing arm, bending it in and re welding it? Just change the angle of the dangle

[NevEno]

Been there done that brother, I ordered the deluxe bent bar from CPP for my 64. They claimed it would work. It seemed to fit the same as yours. I called Jeff, sent him pictures. Don't they say all their products are tested. I just gave it to my buddy that’s been helping me on my truck for his 65. I figured the only way to make it right was to get the trac-bar mount off a 65-72 frame or order a Porter built trac-bar. I went with porter built.

[Mjminino]

How much was the pb one?

[NevEno]

http://pbfab.com/shop/63-72-fully-adjustable-trac-bar

[NevEno]

Comes with the frame mount.

[Mjminino]

When you install it is it at a funky angle?

[NevEno]

Here is the instruction sheet they sent me.

[aggie91]

I have never used the CPP track bar, but from what I do know, the 65-72 frame bracket is in a bit of a different location/angle on the frame than the 64.

Short less expensive answer is: yes, you can cut off the frame bracket and move it to where the CPP bar needs it to be. The whole idea of the CPP bar is to get it longer then the factory bar to reduce the side to side movement as the suspension cycles up and down. Since you already have the CPP stuff, just cut off the frame end mount and reposition it to work with the bar and weld it in. IF this was my project, that is what I would do.

THE PBFab kit is great, but if you don't really want to spend the money, you can make what you have work.

[NevEno]

page 2

[Mjminino]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I have never used the CPP track bar, but from what I do know, the 65-72 frame bracket is in a bit of a different location/angle on the frame than the 64.

Short less expensive answer is: yes, you can cut off the frame bracket and move it to where the CPP bar needs it to be. The whole idea of the CPP bar is to get it longer then the factory bar to reduce the side to side movement as the suspension cycles up and down. Since you already have the CPP stuff, just cut off the frame end mount and reposition it to work with the bar and weld it in. IF this was my project, that is what I would do.

THE PBFab kit is great, but if you don't really want to spend the money, you can make what you have work.

Yeah I'd like to get out of this problem as cheap as possible which welding would be free, and like most people... I like free, plus I already have the bar.

My next problem since I got all of that new stuff is I don't know what years everything fits. The guy I purchased everything from said the setup came off of his 63 (everything was already on it when he bought it). None of the linkage he sent me has any part numbers on it and I called Western Chassis who makes the drop spindles and he said ball joints from 63-70 would work.

As far as the inner tie rods go, were they the same from 67-70? I found this picture



on chevy_mike's for sale page and the idler arm bracket that I got with the parts looks EXACTLY like that one, which leads me to believe that the linkage stuff he sent me was for a 68, but as to the original question were 67'-70' all the same?

Trying to narrow down the years everything was for so I can order nice fresh parts. Without knowing anything and no references to go off of I was SO DAMN tempted to order CPP's grand slam kit (ANOTHER 1300 dollars) and be done with it. Wasting my money on this suspension is slowly pissing me off Once all of this is done the suspension will finally be complete with everything being brand new. I would just order up the inner/outer tie rods, nice adjusting sleeves and upper/lower ball joints.

[chevy_mike]

Yeah, I think '68 (maybe '67) and later use this style mount and idler arm. '66 and earlier uses a different idler arm/mount but I think if you drill the correct holes in the frame, you can use either style. Make sure your center link is level and parallel to the cross member.

FYI - I realized long after that picture was taken, I have the upper control arms swapped side for side. The hole with the bump stop should be to the rear, not the front. Doh!

[Mjminino]

Well, I got it all situated. I just ended up relocating the factory mount and removing the rear ends mount. What a B%$ch it was to remove the rivets!!!! Look how far I had to move it though! What I did was went and measured how far the differential cover stuck out on my other 64 and clamped and re-clamped etc the newly relocated bracket. Factory is roughly 2.5 inches from the flange (not the cover itself). I added half an inch just to be on the safe side. I don't think I will have a problem because I am not going with anything fancy for a cover. BUT guess what!?!?!?!?! Christine's @$$ now has a trac bar!!!

Now that her a$$ has the trac bar I can finish putting the shim and shock relocation bracket on the drivers trailing arm and then that will be all squared away outside of the new axles, posi, 3.73 gears and Captain's impala disk brake set up.

[Mjminino]

On a side note, the other day when I was messing with the cab corner, I filled the gas filler hole up! I forgot to take a finished picture, I'm sure y'all get the drift.

The other picture is some hardware I got with the shocks, does anyone know what the fork looking thing is?

[Mjminino]

Talked to chevy_mike through email the yesterday and he helped me determine the years on my front steering linkage. We both determined that the linkage is 67-70. He's got a 68' for sale and as mentioned above I saw that my idler arm looked exactly like his. I will be ordering the whole shebang (idler arm, pitman arm, inner/outer tie rods, upper/lower ball joints. Western Chassis mentioned that their spindles will accommodate 63-70 ball joints. It'll be nice to have everything the same years for future repairs. The only thing I am out is the $100 for the 71' rotors and the $30 for the 71' factory height spindles. Since today is Friday I am going to a fish fry after work so I wont't have any time to dedicate to Christine. Tomorrow after work on the other hand I am going to clean up the spindles and center link/drag link and get them coated in por15 so everything is ready to go when the new parts show up. Upon doing this everything will be done except for the 5" rear springs that I still have to order.

[aggie91]

Looks like you and Mike got your front steering parts figured out. I looked at my info too, your steering components are 67-70.

Glad to see that you got the track bar issue solved...

The "fork looking" thing in your shock harware is for some style of mounting that uses it thru the upper or lower eye of the shock to mount it. Most likely the shock that you have fits other years/models and the hardware for all applicaitons is included. Kinda like new windsheild wipers, you end up tossing the parts you don't need once its mounted on the vehicle...

[Mjminino]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Looks like you and Mike got your front steering parts figured out. I looked at my info too, your steering components are 67-70.

Glad to see that you got the track bar issue solved...

The "fork looking" thing in your shock harware is for some style of mounting that uses it thru the upper or lower eye of the shock to mount it. Most likely the shock that you have fits other years/models and the hardware for all applicaitons is included. Kinda like new windsheild wipers, you end up tossing the parts you don't need once its mounted on the vehicle...

Thanks for the information Aggie! I appreciate it!

[earl84]

Originally Posted by bj383ss

Use a cup brush on the grinder and then finish with 80 grit on orbital sander and then 220. Its what i do now. Also get a right angle die grinder and some roloc discs. 36 grit and 80 grit for hard to get to places and stubborn rust

Nice work on your truck, and you have great hair, haha.
Something that works REALLY well for paint removal is those fiber discs at Harbor Freight. Takes paint off easily, much faster than the wire wheels, in my experience. And they leave no gouges to repair later. These things
http://t.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-hal....google.com%2F

[Mjminino]

My parcel from the UK arrived today thanks to Rian aka The Grizz. 2 license plates, my very awesomely awesome handmade ashtray and a beanie that he surprised me with! Too damn cool. Thanks a lot Rian!

[Mjminino]

Originally Posted by earl84

Nice work on your truck, and you have great hair, haha.
Something that works REALLY well for paint removal is those fiber discs at Harbor Freight. Takes paint off easily, much faster than the wire wheels, in my experience. And they leave no gouges to repair later. These things
http://t.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-hal....google.com%2F

Thanks for the tip Earl! I will have to get a couple for my buddy, he was going bat $hit crazy using the 80 grit on a DA... Kept complaining it was too slow HAHA

[Grizz1963]

Originally Posted by Mjminino

My parcel from the UK arrived today thanks to Rian aka The Grizz. 2 license plates, my very awesomely awesome handmade ashtray and a beanie that he surprised me with! Too damn cool. Thanks a lot Rian!

Glad it landed.

Could not let you work out in that cold with your shaved head, without a beanie.

Glad you like the ashtray Mike.

Did nothing tonight, but may just sneak into the garage tomorrow morning.