1963 brake booster

[redlands]

Let me start by saying I'm brand new to the forums. I have started a father /son 1963 C-10 stepside project with a 6 cyl and 3 on the tree. I am upgrading from single bowl no booster to a brake booster and a dual mc with drum drum brakes. After reading as many forum pages my brain can handle I purchased a mc combo from the auto parts for a 1967 c-10. There have been many recommendations to use a bracket from Capt Fab but my question is do I need the bracket at all and can I predrill the holes in the firewall without using an additional bracket. Any help would be great, thanks

[60-66]

Welcome to the group Redlands . Here's some pictures although not everything described but I did a similar swap. I used a 1966 Impala brake booster because it looks like the factory setup but it doesn't stick out from the firewall like the factory truck units. Basically I just centered the booster and marked and drilled the 4 holes in the firewall. Then had to adapt the rod to the pedal. Most of the early boosters accept the disc brake or dual reservoir master cylinders. My opinion is it looks cleaner and hugs the firewall.

[vinco]

Looks nice! As a follow-up question, How is the system split when you go from single to dual master cylinder? Do you route the back reservoir to the back axle and the front reservoir to the front axle, or something like that?

[markeb01]

Welcome to the forum. The Captfab bracket is an optional convenience for those that don’t want to drill the firewall. I believe the following thread is the benchmark for splitting brakes and should prove helpful. Good luck on your father/son project.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...it+brake+lines

[redlands]

Originally Posted by 60-66

Welcome to the group Redlands . Here's some pictures although not everything described but I did a similar swap. I used a 1966 Impala brake booster because it looks like the factory setup but it doesn't stick out from the firewall like the factory truck units. Basically I just centered the booster and marked and drilled the 4 holes in the firewall. Then had to adapt the rod to the pedal. Most of the early boosters accept the disc brake or dual reservoir master cylinders. My opinion is it looks cleaner and hugs the firewall.

thank you , this is exactly the kind of help I was looking for.

[redlands]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Welcome to the forum. The Captfab bracket is an optional convenience for those that don’t want to drill the firewall. I believe the following thread is the benchmark for splitting brakes and should prove helpful. Good luck on your father/son project.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...it+brake+lines

thank you for the info and the link on brake lines

[60-66]

Sorry Ive been out buffing my 63 all day, heres the pictures of how I routed my brakelines.

[60-66]

I should note, please do not think I'm trying to stear you away from Captain Fabs bracket, I did all this before I ever new about Captains stuff. I've since bought his power steering bracket and really like the quality.

I should note here to, I went with late 70s disc brakes on my truck and needed a proportioning valve. Inline tube in Michigan supplied that and all the correct size brake line ends, I made and bent all my own brake lines. Its pretty simple once you get going but much easier if its all apart. The disc brakes are a night and day difference but drums still work fine. Jon

[jayoldschool]

60-66, your upper ball joint nut/bolts are in upside down. Should be bolts from the bottom, nut on top.

[60-66]

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

60-66, your upper ball joint nut/bolts are in upside down. Should be bolts from the bottom, nut on top.

Hmmm, never liked having my nuts exposed................but I will bite, what the difference in strength ?

[jayoldschool]

No difference in strength, difference in length. More sticking out the bottom to tear that boot that expands with grease.

Same question answered here

MOOG specifies that nuts go on top:

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/moo...s/AXCF3616.pdf

This might make sense:

[Trsmotrhed]

I install mine the way you do so you don't see the nuts. There is no strength difference. There is nothing wrong with your bolts.
Posted via Mobile Device

[redlands]

thank you for the clarification

[redlands]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Welcome to the forum. The Captfab bracket is an optional convenience for those that don’t want to drill the firewall. I believe the following thread is the benchmark for splitting brakes and should prove helpful. Good luck on your father/son project.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...it+brake+lines

Thank you for the clarification

[Trsmotrhed]

Yes, thanks for clarification. Time to swap mine around. Hate when I'm wrong. Lol.
Posted via Mobile Device

[60-66]

Point taken and uploaded to the memory bank Jayoldschool. Thank you. I had to go look at my ball joints, may be a different design than yours as the nuts are not even close to the rubber seal, truck has 2000 miles on it so far.

[jayoldschool]

Is there any grease in that? That boot should be much more filled than that. Was that taken after first assembly (no grease)?

I'm sure that one can run with the nuts upside down. I just wanted to point out that they are spec'd to install from the bottom.