Lift kit install suggestions

[Blazerowner]

I’m installing a lift kit from Offroad Deaigns in my 72 Blazer and have run into an issue with one of the rear springs. The passenger side front hanger for the spring is nearly impossibly to get the spring in. It’s the solid front and I have the rear in no problem. I have it about half way up and it just won’t go any further. The other side was a bit of a pain but finally popped in with a mallet and some side to side motion. I’ve used a transmission jack to try and get it in but that starts to lift the truck. I’ve beat on it with a mallet and nothing. I’m using new polyeurethane bushings and it seems like the sleeve is catching. I’ve greased them as well. I know it’s a tight fit but man it’s a pain. Any suggestions to get it in?

[mongocanfly]

Might try grinding the end of the bushing just a touch...

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Might try grinding the end of the bushing just a touch...

Yep.I had to grind off a bit of the bushing sleeve on one (possibly both.... I can't recall) of the front springs when I installed my Softrides many years ago.

[Blazerowner]

What about the inside of the perch? I noticed it is notched around the hole for the bolt. Is this to prevent the original sleeve from spinning? I was thinking about grinding the sleeve, you don’t think this would compromise it?

[Stocker]

It's been years since I did my front springs but I don't recall the perches being notched.

If we're talking about the same thing, grinding the sleeve won't hurt a thing. Sleeve is a bit too long to fit into the hanger, so you shorten it but it should still fit tightly. You won't remove enough metal to allow the bushing itself to contact the hanger. I probably shortened the sleeve by ~1/16", maybe a bit more.

[Zoomad75]

Over-tightening of the previous spring eye bolt can cause the sides of the spring mount to squeeze in just a little bit. Add a sleeve that's a touch long and it would be a bear to shove it in the mount without serious persuasion.

If that's the case, a porta-power would be the slick/quickest way to spread that mount out enough to slide the spring into it. But if you can't do that, you should be able to come up with a way to spread the sides apart enough to allow the spring eye to slide into it.

[Miller's Metal]

You could use a chunk of all thread and a couple of nuts and washers. With the nuts and washers inside the spring hanger tighten them to force it apart.

[Blazerowner]

Definitely good ideas. I may have to try the all thread idea.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by Miller's Metal

You could use a chunk of all thread and a couple of nuts and washers. With the nuts and washers inside the spring hanger tighten them to force it apart.

This is what I did! It was about 1/16-1/8” narrower then the stock width. It probably got loose at one time since the stock bushing shrank so they just retightened it which shortened up the width.

[Blazerowner]

I’ve owned it for about 5 years so who knows what happened in the years before. All the springs are original so it wouldn’t surprise me something was tightened at once. I think if I can get another 1/16 or even 1/32 I can get it in. I’ll be running to the store in the next few days to get what I need.

[Blazerowner]

Well I didn’t have all thread so I got a 3 1/2 bolt and cut the head off. Put some washers and nut on and after about 2 turns it opened it up just enough to slide the spring in. Still a tight fit but much easier. Thanks for the help guys.

[Stocker]

That's a neat trick, glad it worked for you! Wish I would have known about that years ago when I put in my Softrides.

[Benjamin]

Originally Posted by Blazerowner

Well I didn’t have all thread so I got a 3 1/2 bolt and cut the head off. Put some washers and nut on and after about 2 turns it opened it up just enough to slide the spring in. Still a tight fit but much easier. Thanks for the help guys.

What springs are you installing? I'm thinking about getting some 4-inch lift ORD custom leaf springs.

I'm currently running a Tuff Country 4" lift, front and rear springs, SX8000 nitro gas shocks, and it is too stiff of a ride for the pothole-ridden South Louisiana streets.

[obijuan]

Change your shocks out first. You might be surprised.

[Blazerowner]

I bought a set of custom springs from Offroad Designs. It is a 3 inch kit with the shackle flip. I have heard good things. I got everything but the shocks (bilstein) which I sourced from Summit racing as they were cheaper. I purchased some custom spring plates for the front and rear. I am also flipping the rear u bolts so the plate is on top of the spring.

[Benjamin]

Originally Posted by Blazerowner

I bought a set of custom springs from Offroad Designs. It is a 3 inch kit with the shackle flip. I have heard good things. I got everything but the shocks (bilstein) which I sourced from Summit racing as they were cheaper. I purchased some custom spring plates for the front and rear. I am also flipping the rear u bolts so the plate is on top of the spring.

Cool! Let us know how you like it.

[Blazerowner]

Picture of the front with 33s. Lifted the truck a lot. I didn’t measure before but it looks like 5-6 inches.

[GSP7]

Did your CST blazer come with a 396 BB? Nice looking blazer

I had a '69 396 CST, turbo 400, 1/2 ton. short bed . I should never have sold that thing


,

[Blazerowner]

Thanks for the compliment.
No blazer came with a big block is my understanding. Of course anything is possible but I just have never seen one. Mine was originally a 350 but I have an LS3 sitting in it right now.

[GSP7]

Lets see pics of your LS3

Did you have to install a computer , ECM, and controls or is it mechanical ? Im not savy on what's needed

[Blazerowner]

I’ll try to get a picture of the engine. I’m using a Holley terminator kit to run the engine and 4l80e. I haven’t wired anything up yet. It’s some work but I want it to run like a new truck.

[Blazerowner]

Heres the engine

[GSP7]

Cool , Work in Progress