Radiator Chalk

[BC10]

Hi Guys,
Was changing out my old radiator hoses. I noticed some clear colored sludgy gelatinous materials on the bottom of my bucket, and some metal particles in the coolant when it was drained.

I looked inside the radiator and noticed a lot of hard white chalky residue on the inside of my radiator. Is this something to be concerned about, in regards to eventually needing to change it?
Thanks!
Brian

[toolboxchev]

Try some of this in there and see if it cleans up. I would use 2 of them as our cooling system is about 4 gallons.


https://evapo-rust.com/thermocure/

Its either that or some Muratic acid to clean that one out.

[Overdriven]

It’s a combination of corrosion and mineral deposits from the water added to the system. Use some sort of additive in the coolant to break down the junk and then flush the system. I’ve used big box auto store stuff with varying success, sorry I don’t remember what worked best.

If left unchecked it will only get worse and eventually clog the radiator. Distilled water is an option to help prevent this buildup especially if your tap water has lots of minerals. I’m not sure if 50/50 premix coolant uses distilled water, if it does that could be an option as well.

[Grumpy old man]

For the guys not used to flushing the coolant system .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s--5ft5YiHg

[Steeveedee]

Solder bloom and scale. I'd recommend taking it to get rodded out at a radiator shop.

[special-K]

I have a feeling this one won't survive rodding out. I'd try one of the products suggested and hope that clears it up. But looks already pretty corroded. Might find it's time for a new radiator. Radiator shops are falling by the wayside these days, but if you have one to use, try rodding if using the product doesn't help. A good shop will advise against rodding or try and if they find the core is too weak will abort and advise. My guy won't charge for trying, but he's a great old school radiator guy

[BC10]

Wow, thanks for all the responses!
Going to do some research today. I'm going to try flushing it first.

In the meantime, any radiator recommendations? I want to stick with one that is black. Preferably Brass and copper, close to OEM if possible. I have a shroud and clutch fan.
Thanks!

[BC10]

Ttt

So far my searches have led me to copper brass radiators that are north of $650

Anyone know of any good vendors?

[dmjlambert]

I took mine to a radiator shop and asked them what I should do. The elbow the bottom hose attached to had come loose and I wanted them to solder that back on at a minimum. The guy there said he could put it in a tank where they soak them to clean them up, and pressure test and evaluate it for $65. He said the job included minor soldering and leak fixing. When I got it back he told me it tested OK and he showed me the couple of spots he soldered to fix minor leaks. He said he would consider its condition to be marginal and it would not last for years and years. I used it for a few months and that gave me time to shop around for a new radiator. They also offered more elaborate restoration services, such as re-coring, for higher prices.

In my case I decided to get an all-weld construction aluminum radiator based on recommendations I saw from members on this site. http://www.speedcooling.com/1967_197..._Radiator.html
There are also recommendations here on the forum for Cold Case radiators, and some board vendors sell them. They are USA made and lifetime warranty, supposedly, but I don't have any experience with them.

So, if you are OK with going aluminum, there are choices. The tanks and around the edges are paintable if you want the black look.

[dmjlambert]

One more note: the radiator I bought and that I gave the link to is one that replaces the original HD 4 row radiator. There are other radiator sizes in these trucks of ours, with different brackets to hold them, so you'll have to figure out what you have or be prepared to deal with fitting it.

[HO455]

That is the reality of today. Good quality copper cores are expensive and environmental costs have driven most shops out of business as most people don't want to pay the price.
Good quality aluminum radiators are cheaper but for the most part not repairable when a failure occurs.
The cheaper generic race car radiators will require fab work to make them fit.
Pick your poison.

[BC10]

So I took my radiator out, and took it to a shop.
Unfortunately he said it was so corroded that if they cleaned it fully, the core would fall apart.

So please keep the vendor suggestions coming.
I still am leaning towards a copper brass radiators, but am open to every possibility.
Thanks!

[BC10]

Anyone every try these four core "OEM" radiators?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1967-...ent,73785.html

[dmjlambert]

That sure looks like a nice one. I think you need to be aware you can't tell from the pictures if the tank part is made of plastic or metal. You could probably ask that question to speedwaymotors.com.

[Grumpy old man]

It says Copper and brass . For $419.00, Count me in for one
No sense paying crazy money for an aluminum one .

Info
These OEM replacement style copper/brass radiators are designed to fit 1967-72 GM pickups and blazers. They feature 4 rows for efficient cooling performance and include a heater return line.

OEM style copper/brass radiator
4 row
28-1/2" x 17" x 2-1/2" Core
Inlet connection: 1-1/2"
Outlet connection: 1-3/4"
Has heater return line

[Grumpy old man]

Forgot the picture .

[BC10]

https://www.radiatorexpress.com/prod.../39186/1029743

I found an even better price!
Ended up ordering this one.

This one is a 3 core for non AC, which is what I have.

They also have a 4 core for a decent price as well.
https://www.radiatorexpress.com/prod.../39187/1029833

FYI, if you call and ask, there might be a special code for a shipping discount.