Details for 350 to 700 swap in 72 K2500

[PropMan]

I'm in the process of swapping my 350T for a 700r4. I'm keeping the NP205 in the original location and moving the engine forward(looks like 1.75" by my rough measurements tonight). Also measuring the shifter output of the 700, it will be .75" forward of the original 350T location.

For those who have done this, what was your remedy? Move the bracket on the frame or is there a kit for the shifter?

I've searched the site, but no luck. If this question has been answered, please point me in that directon.
Thanks

[Bigdav160]

I moved the shifter bracket on the frame. IIRC I had to remove a rivet from the body mount.

Lots of things get shifted. Exhaust moved forward, fan shroud didn't fit anymore, radiator hoses changed, transmission lines shortened, A/C lines massaged.

I still recommend the swap. I changed the way the truck drives for the better.

[YoungPup1977]

Are you planning on changing the output shaft in the 700R4 ?

[Captainfab]

I just don't understand wanting to go to all the work of moving the engine rather than just shortening one driveshaft, lengthening one driveshaft and moving the TC shifter and the trans shifter.

[PropMan]

Originally Posted by YoungPup1977

Are you planning on changing the output shaft in the 700R4 ?

Yes sir, that was done during overhaul, you actually gave me advise back in February on that. just now getting to the install part.

[PropMan]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I just don't understand wanting to go to all the work of moving the engine rather than just shortening one driveshaft, lengthening one driveshaft and moving the TC shifter and the trans shifter.

For me it made more sense to move the engine, more clearance for the distributor, i can do all the needed fab work, plus i dont have a shop nearby to do the drive shaft work.

[YoungPup1977]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I just don't understand wanting to go to all the work of moving the engine rather than just shortening one driveshaft, lengthening one driveshaft and moving the TC shifter and the trans shifter.

Have you done this before ?

[YoungPup1977]

Originally Posted by PropMan

Yes sir, that was done during overhaul, you actually gave me advise back in February on that. just now getting to the install part.

Glad to see your progress, I have some pics of the shifter linkage from the frame to the trans. I will try to find them and post them if you need them.


Use the stock pan on the 700r4, the front driveshaft can come real close to the pan....don't use a deep pan.

Make sure you use the transfer case mount that bolts to the frame on the passenger side of the frame.

You will have to shorten the upper and lower radiator hoses and the cooler lines should not be a big deal, bending them to take up the length.

How are you planning on engaging/disengaging the TCC ?

[YoungPup1977]

Originally Posted by PropMan

For me it made more sense to move the engine, more clearance for the distributor, i can do all the needed fab work, plus i dont have a shop nearby to do the drive shaft work.

By keeping the transfer case in the stock location is really less fab work, no cutting of the floor pan for the transfer case shifter moving, no driveshaft work, transfer case side mount does not have to move. plus its cheaper to do and looks better when completed. the cross member that supports the engine will need the holes drilled in the upper and lower frame rails, easy stuff that can be done and like mentioned no cost of driveshaft work and distributor clearance from the firewall

[PropMan]

Originally Posted by YoungPup1977

Glad to see your progress, I have some pics of the shifter linkage from the frame to the trans. I will try to find them and post them if you need them.


Use the stock pan on the 700r4, the front driveshaft can come real close to the pan....don't use a deep pan.

Make sure you use the transfer case mount that bolts to the frame on the passenger side of the frame.

You will have to shorten the upper and lower radiator hoses and the cooler lines should not be a big deal, bending them to take up the length.

How are you planning on engaging/disengaging the TCC ?

I'm considering using the Lokar shift linkage, it has good reviews on Summit. Have you had experience with it?
Have the stock pan, so should be good there and bought a painless kit for the lockup.

[YoungPup1977]

Originally Posted by PropMan

I'm considering using the Lokar shift linkage, it has good reviews on Summit. Have you had experience with it?
Have the stock pan, so should be good there and bought a painless kit for the lockup.

I normally use the factory trans linkage most of the time, the Lokar is real proud of their products.

As far as the TCC, you are wiring the TCC solenoid up to the 4th gear oil circuit. So when 4th gear is achieved, the TCC solenoid will be engaged at the same time. Is that how you are setting the TCC up ?