Recommendations needed for epoxy primer for newly sandblasted stepside bed

[wcstory]

I'm getting ready to have my extra long (109") longbed stepside bed dustless blasted. It has been completely disassembled for best results. I want to have everything on hand and ready to shoot before it gets stripped.

I would like opinions / recommendations on current products. It's been a long while since I was doing any automotive painting

My current plan:
Under bed supports - POR-15 2 coats and topcoat with POR topcoat (have on hand)
Bed body panels and fenders - to use U-Pol's Raptor epoxy primer because I intend to spray Raptor Liner on the inside of the stepside fenders, underside of the steps and the inside of the bed area

[Kim57]

These guys make an excellent epoxy prime.
Kim
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

[wcstory]

Originally Posted by Kim57

These guys make an excellent epoxy prime.
Kim
https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

I've seen SPI mentioned in other threads. Have you used their epoxy products? If so, at what temps have you sprayed SPI? Reading their info they say if you cant keep the shop at 65 degrees for 24 hours don't use.

Thx

[MP&C]

I think you would see better results out of any epoxy primer product by staying above 65 degrees. IMO SPI is just more "forthcoming" with application information like this as they would rather see you get it right the first time than have to repaint something due to adhesion failure.


As to the dustless blasting, there is no way I would use POR after media blasting anything. Use epoxy primer there as well, and have something when you're done. Too much hit or miss in using POR.

[Foot Stomper]

Pick your brand, any brand will do, but do not put anything on bare steel except epoxy primer. You can put whatever you want on the epoxy because it doesn't matter...it's mostly lipstick after the epoxy is on. Nothing protects rust creep better than epoxy...nothing.

[nsb29]

Yep all of the above

[Kim57]

I make sure it's above 65 when I spray it.
It's the only epoxy primer I have ever used so can't say how it compares to others when sanding but hasn't ever been a problem for me.
Kim

[MP&C]

Hypothetical.... 10 years from now you go to sell the truck, and any prospective buyers are told that you used POR products on the bed supports. Half would love it, half would walk away from it. Tell the same group of people that it was media blasted and sprayed with epoxy primer, you would have a MUCH higher level of approval of the method used, a better chance of selling the truck, and as Footstomper mentioned, less chance to find rust again.

[nikwho]

As stated above, make sure that it is 65°+, or whatever your paint manufacturer recommends. I've only had epoxy primer have adhesion issues on time, and I sprayed it at 58°, with the intention of warming the shop back up right after spraying. I applied some Rage body filler onto the hood and about a week later I could see a small crack. I picked at it a little and the later of filler came right off, pulling all of the epoxy primer right off of the metal that had been sanded with 220 grit, IIRC. I was surprised. That days temperature was the only variable between how I've applied in the past. So, I am a stickler for the minimum temperature that manufacturers reccomend.

I've been very happy with Eastwood's epoxy primer. It's made by Kirker and rebranded for Eastwood. Aside from that isolated incident where I failed to follow simple direction, it has worked very well for me!

[wcstory]

Originally Posted by nikwho

I've been very happy with Eastwood's epoxy primer. It's made by Kirker and rebranded for Eastwood. Aside from that isolated incident where I failed to follow simple direction, it has worked very well for me!

Thx. I was wondering about Eastwood’s product also.

[mikelom]

Another +1 for SPI. It offers great corrosion protection and is cheaper cost wise.