Roller Cam in non-Roller SBC block

[C20-67_N_MO]

Has anyone used a kit like this converting to a Hyd. Roller camshaft?


http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...Fe4-Mgodlh8A8g

Should just require some minor modifying like drilling and taping but not sure how extensive this will be. As the cost of a Hydraulic roller retro-fit lifters are well over $350+ for the older Gen I blocks.

[Bigdav160]

Most of the older blocks do not have the bosses to tap out.

The rib down the middle of the lifter valley is a main oil gallery

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by C20-67_N_MO

Has anyone used a kit like this converting to a Hyd. Roller camshaft?


http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...Fe4-Mgodlh8A8g

Should just require some minor modifying like drilling and taping but not sure how extensive this will be. As the cost of a Hydraulic roller retro-fit lifters are well over $350+ for the older Gen I blocks.

If the block is 87 and up it will work. Earlier will not you would need a different kit

[Bigdav160]

It doesn't always work that way. I don't have a camera here or I'd take a picture.

I have a 350 block (casting 10054727 suffix TDF) from a '92 Truck. One piece main seal and it has no provisions for roller cam at all.

I have another 350 (casting 14010207 suffix FMC) from an '85 (perhaps car?). It has a two piece main seal but bosses (undrilled) in the valley for the roller lifter hold down.

[storm9c1]

Right, passenger cars started getting roller cams around 1987, light trucks used flat tappet cams into the 90s.

The tricky part is finding a block with roller cam provisions (best bet is a car block) and mechanical fuel pump (if you need that). Plan on running an electric fuel pump unless you get lucky. And finally, be careful of the lifter bores if you convert a block -- be sure to check those as well. If they are stepped from the factory, you will have trouble with stock roller lifters.

[Marv D]

WELL into the 90's even. Many of the 90's blocks had the boss, but wasn't drilled. I have only known one guy whom I can say could drill the boss for the spider. my MACHINIST. It seems to me even a few thousands of mis-alignment would be invitation for odd wear and eventual failure.

[C20-67_N_MO]

So in other words it would be wise not to attempt this and just go with a mid 1990's block.

That already has this done and it is a true roller camshaft block.

[cableguy0]

Originally Posted by C20-67_N_MO

So in other words it would be wise not to attempt this and just go with a mid 1990's block.

That already has this done and it is a true roller camshaft block.

You got it.. That or use the proper link bar retro fit lifters in an old block. The newer block is the better/cheaper option plus you get a 1 piece rear main out of the deal.

[C20-67_N_MO]

Originally Posted by cableguy0

You got it.. That or use the proper link bar retro fit lifters in an old block. The newer block is the better/cheaper option plus you get a 1 piece rear main out of the deal.

Yeah I wanted to use the block I have but not worth the risk of making my block a paper weight.

I'll just use it for now and find a block that will support a roller camshaft later.

Thanks for all the replies everyone!

[mongoose]

Originally Posted by Marv D

WELL into the 90's even. Many of the 90's blocks had the boss, but wasn't drilled. I have only known one guy whom I can say could drill the boss for the spider. my MACHINIST. It seems to me even a few thousands of mis-alignment would be invitation for odd wear and eventual failure.

drilling the hole's wouldn't be that hard really.. all the tray does is hold down the guides.. the tray does have room to move a bit before it interferes with anything.