Help me value and decide wether to buy this truck

[John H.]

My guess with the second vin, the title is "rebuilt" or branded.

Ask the owner.

[orville]

I'm just gonna put out there that I have looked at three others of this vintage for sale in the greater Seattle area and all three have been very rusty, clapped out motor and interior type rigs, ranging in price from 5500$ to 7500$
If a guy could get this truck for 10,000 of 12,000 I would have bought one already.
That body and paint alone is worth a big portion of that ten large, plus a purchase of 5000
big block swap several thousand
coated headers and new custom exhaust 1500 easy
new interior, all new stainless lines, new shocks, radiator, mastercylinder. good brakes, good tires, absolutely no rust???
If anyone out there has a comparable truck to this for 12,000 I'll be at your door in ten, just PM me.

[Sicklajoie]

All I know is, that is one beautiful truck!
With the workmanship and it being a bb 4x4, it's easily 20k.

[ETsC10]

Originally Posted by orville

Thanks for commenting on the second VIN Tag, I didn't even think about insurance purposes of that, my first thoughts were about value and originality,
How do I tell if it is a branded/marked title? would the title/registration say on it? or have verbage in that regard?
Or is the new vin tag a clear indicator that the truck was a lost title/totaled rig and a complete state patrol inspection had to be performed?
It is possible that this truck had a different cab put on the frame and therefore didn't have a matching vin number.

Call the DMV or State Patrol. It appears it has had a new title issued.
Not a bad thing as the paperwork has been already done on a vehicle
that has major parts combined on a new rig & documented.

i.e. maybe had a vin-stamped cab added to a frame that is also vin
stamped; from two different vehicles...done all the time and quite legal.
They build a new title and re-tag the cab (& the frame too..not sure).

The title should always indicate it as a rebuilt/re-titled truck.
I suggest you run a carfax on vin to be sure. A retitle should show up.

You may never know the trucks heritage but if it is well put together
and you want to buy & drive it...go for it!

Very, very nice BTW.

Just my 2¢

[coueshunter]

Very nice truck. Only downside is tires are old. Easy 18-20k truck

[Grumpy old man]

Nice truck, Looks like good work , But the title issues and questionable insurance coverage would stop me from paying anything over $12,500.00 and for myself I can build it cheaper than that . But for a shop to build it for someone I would think you'd be in the $25,000 - $30,000 range done and finished right .

[coueshunter]

Some if these answers are cracking me up and people literally have no clue what it really cost to build one of these trucks.

If you paid a shop to do thigs right:
Body work 3-4k starting with good metal
Paint 3-5k
Motor build 3-5k depending on parts
Interior 3-5k depending on parts
Tranny 2-3k
Wheels an tires 2k
Chassis rebuild 5k replacing everything
Exhaust 1k
This is prices to get parts with no labor on most of this. Your minimum into this truck for $50k paying someone to build it for you. That's not even buying top of the line or exotic type stuff either. He'll rebuild an A/C set up with good quality parts and see where you are at.

[72freak]

The VIN tag issue is not an insurance issue. They will insure it as long as it has clear legal paperwork. If the state will tag it, they will insure it. The last guy up hit it on the head. It probably cost 40K+ to build it. Is it worth that...NO! Do you ever get your money out of a build like that...no. Long bed hurt it....maybe...but in this situation...NOT REALLY. Does this economy hurt it...YES!! What would it sell for at Barrett Jackson or Fast N Loud...who cares...that's not accurate or realistic. If you really want it, have money to waste and are never going to have to sell it...pay what you want. If you really want it but don't want to loose money...pay under $15K. If you really want it and don't want to get hurt too bad when you sell it...stay under 20K. These 67-72 trucks, although nice and great looking, are not a cash crop.

VERY NICE BUILD and anyone would be lucky to have it.

The above represents an OPINION only along with 25 years of buying, building and selling 67-72 trucks in the S.E. of this great country.

[orville]

I'd estimate the cost of this build well into the thirty thousand range,
the engine has a warranty,
Yeah those tires could be replaced for sure
and it has to much lift for my liking, I'd like to lower it about two inches.
It's hard to get into and the steering wheel is close to the seat for me so a tilt column and a smaller wheel would be in order right away,
also a gear vendors on that tcase to the rearend would help tame that big block I'd bet, the online calculator says 2700 at 65 or so with 4.10's and 33's
and a bed liner spray in would set it off nice too.
thanks for all the replies.
Orville

[Hawghauler]

It's a beautiful truck, no doubt, Are you going to keep us in suspense?
How much?
I'm not a red fan, but that one looks great.
Let us know your plan.
Good luck

[ho70]

20k all day long

[WH0DAMAN]

Originally Posted by coueshunter

Some if these answers are cracking me up and people literally have no clue what it really cost to build one of these trucks.

If you paid a shop to do thigs right:
Body work 3-4k starting with good metal
Paint 3-5k
Motor build 3-5k depending on parts
Interior 3-5k depending on parts
Tranny 2-3k
Wheels an tires 2k
Chassis rebuild 5k replacing everything
Exhaust 1k
This is prices to get parts with no labor on most of this. Your minimum into this truck for $50k paying someone to build it for you. That's not even buying top of the line or exotic type stuff either. He'll rebuild an A/C set up with good quality parts and see where you are at.

X2. You beat me to it. Even doing that yourself you are going to be in it more than 15K. I know, im in the process of building a big block 70 suburban right now. I do this for a living and if that were my truck, it wouldnt go for any less than 20k.

[FirstOwner69]

The truck looks really nice, but a big turnoff for me, and something that causes me to question the quality of the bodywork, is the body color door strikers. If the painter was too lazy to remove them before painting the body, what does that say about the rest of his work? I'd look it over very carefully for body filler and other shortcuts before purchasing. Perhaps he just didn't know better.

[oldspowered67C10]

Looks like a nice truck, alot of nice work done on the resto but really hard to value without standing right next to it. If I had to guess Id think that it would go something like this. Hed want mid 20s for it youd offer 15k and you settle somewhere around 18-20k.

[big_al_71]

15k-18k all in..

[orville]

heres the facts folks,
I put up a wanted ad on craigslist for a 68 to 72 K20 in good original shape or a restored one. All I could find thus far up here is either pretty rusty and tired, or jacked up and I assume beaten on. There are or were at least six 70 to 72 K20's in the greater Seattle area and I looked at three between 5000 and 7500 all three were pretty shot.
the owner of this truck, responded to my craigslist ad and sent all those photos to me and a statement of a 30,000 dollar rebuild cost and he wants 25,000.
We have settled on 20,000. I haven't paid for it or fully commited, I went and viewed the truck once but didn't get a drive due to four inches of snow, I'm going again to get a drive and if I like it I may buy.
Its a sweetheart for sure but I am weighing my options on price points for older and newer trucks and what I need a the truck for. 20 large buys a pretty nice couple year old 3/4 ton rig some with a diesel.
I've asked all my car buddies for advice and most say to buy a newer truck, so it will just be a tool not to worry about with the modern amenities of air conditioning and good window defrost and such.
Plus like was stated that big block will drink like a fish!!!
Can anybody venture a guess as to the actuall freeway and town mileage a truck like this will get?? with 4.10's and 33's and four inches of lift even with a soft touch to the long pedal? I have size 13 boots and they weigh a lot. And what I mean is I often put it on the floor and pull on the steering wheel for extra leverage, while envisioning my foot pressing on the back of the headlights, then I ask "please, just a little more, all I need is a little more"

[orville]

a couple more photos of the actual build process the only ones the new owner has, the owner has had the truck since 2011,
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

[orville]

How can I tell if the truck has a body lift as well? Maybe a simple question but I need to know how tall the stock mounts are, andhow much frame your supposed to see from in the inner fender wells. I don't like body lifts much and this truck needs to go lower a bit for my tastes and a body lift may compromise the big block if it was removed.
If you have dimensions of body mounts and there positions please advize me, or better yet pictures.
thanks
Orville

[67_C-30]

You mentioned buying a newer truck - is this going to be a daily driver? If you are buying this as a your primary vehicle, then I'd think long and hard about buying a truck that nice that will only depreciate with the wear and tear of daily use/wear. 7 - 10 MPG is probably the range (and less if those boots get heavy) with 4.10's and a 454 with no OD.

I say this as a guy who drives old trucks most of the time. I had a newer Z71 that I ended up selling because I put less than a 1000 miles on it over the last 3 years I had it. I have a '97 S10 that I use for my company truck, but I drive either my M1009 military Blazer or my '68 C-10 (or one of my other old cars/trucks) when I'm not working out of my S10. It doesn't bother me driving something without A/C or even without power steering/power brakes, but that's not the case for most people. I don't use the A/C in my S10 when I'm driving it.

I love driving older cars/trucks, and I do so by choice. But you need to make sure you would be OK with that if this is going to a daily driver.

[Hawghauler]

I think another question is how much will I sell it for in 5-10 years. A newer truck, probably only a couple of grand. This truck, if it's as nice as it looks, at least 10k. Then there is the style factor, how many people are impressed with newer trucks?
Then it comes down to gas mileage. You could toss a few more grand at it, and get a four or more speed auto and get much of the mileage back, plus even better bottom end action.
I agree the body is too high, and I'd definitely lower it back a bit.
I think the resale value will pay for most of that bad gas mileage.
Best of luck, and Happy New Year!

[texjake]

Its a nice truck. Looks almost more of a show than go truck. IMO, I'd be scared to drive something that nice everyday, not to mention that its a 4x4 because I'd be wanting to take it out & go four wheeling & go play in the snow with it. Looks to be a weekend driver & a show truck. But if that's what you want & you got the money for it I say go for it. I more/less like the drivers & don't have to worry about door dings or runaway shopping carts in the parking lots. That's better for me, building them & fixing them myself, that way I know what's wrong with it and I put a little bit of my soul into each one of these builds. Its good therapy for me.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by WH0DAMAN

X2. You beat me to it. Even doing that yourself you are going to be in it more than 15K. I know, im in the process of building a big block 70 suburban right now. I do this for a living and if that were my truck, it wouldnt go for any less than 20k.

Well. Not exactly true , I just bought 6 trucks all failed projects all come with extra parts doors/fenders/beds/engines/transmissions etc,etc and after collecting all these I will pick and choose from them all to end up with 2 short bed '67 trucks with all good factory GM metal and all the parts to rebuild them . Once I scavenge what I want everything that's left will be sold off to completely cover my expenses and I will have 2 complete trucks to build sitting in my driveway for FREE ! If you have to rely on someone else to build one for you ,Well yes it's expensive and very time consuming and you have to deal with someone else's idea of what it will be when completed , Total costs to buy and transport everything to my driveway is $2,990.00 -- Total after selling whats left 0.00 and maybe a little profit !

[Sicklajoie]

Originally Posted by orville

How can I tell if the truck has a body lift as well? Maybe a simple question but I need to know how tall the stock mounts are, andhow much frame your supposed to see from in the inner fender wells. I don't like body lifts much and this truck needs to go lower a bit for my tastes and a body lift may compromise the big block if it was removed.
If you have dimensions of body mounts and there positions please advize me, or better yet pictures.
thanks
Orville

Usually, and I mean usually, you'll know there's a body lift when there's a bigger gap than stock between the bumpers and the rest of the body.

[orville]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Well. Not exactly true , I just bought 6 trucks all failed projects all come with extra parts doors/fenders/beds/engines/transmissions etc,etc and after collecting all these I will pick and choose from them all to end up with 2 short bed '67 trucks with all good factory GM metal and all the parts to rebuild them . Once I scavenge what I want everything that's left will be sold off to completely cover my expenses and I will have 2 complete trucks to build sitting in my driveway for FREE ! If you have to rely on someone else to build one for you ,Well yes it's expensive and very time consuming and you have to deal with someone else's idea of what it will be when completed , Total costs to buy and transport everything to my driveway is $2,990.00 -- Total after selling whats left 0.00 and maybe a little profit !

That can be a good way to go allright, and I appreciate the build it yourself pride for sure.
However I've got a 55 Chevy going and it is gonna suck up my build time. When working full time it is my experience that there is just no way to have more than one project.
The really pertinent words here were the "expensive and time consuming" the time consuming part would be me building it, that could take a very long time even when spending at least one weekend day a week and a few hours at night one or two days during the week.
I don't really see ever finishing one if I'm focused on another project. Yes there may be some money saved, but I don't have time OR SPACE to wheel and deal.

[desertnick69]

I have to say 'THATS ONE NICE LOOKING RIDE'. It seems that you have climbed all over under, thru and around this truck. The only thing that i have read that devalue the truck is the VIN.(and maybe the BB if you are looking more orignal) , and i would throw out 15k and go from there, i would not pay over 18k. Thats my two cents worth.