HELP! Install Gen 3 Firebird TPI W/computer into 71???

[Steve Van Gent]

Has anyone successful installed a gen 3 tuned port injection with origional computer and wiring into their truck? And documented the process? I am not finding much about this on Gen3 sites...THe wiring harness is a monster, and there are 2 computer modules. I also need ideas how to plumb the fuel, type fuel pump, how to run the intake snorkle, where to place the air cleaner, how to kill the theft/key system , ETC.

I feel a bit overwhelmed with this, I may have biten off more than I can chew...I would like this to look decent when complete and not throw error codes. THe specs on the motor and tranny look great, the 305 appears to turn about 235HP stock, and the 350 only turns about 15 more HP in same car...

[Pop's C-10]

Have you tried doing a ne searh on TPI swaps in general..there is alot of info...

http://www.chevythunder.com/

[Katrina/10]

Originally Posted by Pop's C-10

Have you tried doing a ne searh on TPI swaps in general..there is alot of info...

http://www.chevythunder.com/

That's a good resource, and there are many others. Did you have a specific question?

[71swb4x4]

Tons of TPI threads on this board.

Chevythunder above is a great resource. I reused my original harness and used chevythunder and the original Helms manual for the car that I got the TPI from. That Helms manual was great.

I used jagsthatrun.com for the VSS and the ducting for the air filter.

[vasquezmrysvll]

what year tpi system are you working on? im not aware of a 2 ECU system? the inaugural year was 1985 and that system used a MAF burn-off module that piggie backed on the ECU. it was a 1 year only ECU and burn-off module.

[Steve Van Gent]

Great site! good detail...THanks for link. Will take some reading to absorb. One thing I dont see any info on there is VATS....

[LockDoc]

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I have been working on one but slowed down at the electrical. Just go to the Google search box at the top of the page and type in TPI, click on the circle in front of "67-72chevytrucks.com" and click on the GOOGLE button....

LockDoc

[Katrina/10]

You'll have to reprogram the computer to get rid of VATS.

[406 Q-ship]

I did put a L98 (Corvette 350 from the C4) into a 1988 Pickup back in 1988. If yours has what your calling 2 computer modules, that is a harness from a 1985 (one year only). The second module is a injector driver module. The wiring for the TPI engines is much easier than the later engines (LS1 or LT1), it is a completely seperate harness with a few contections. There will only need to have a Vehicle Speed signal. attached at the speedometer back then but now you can get an encoder that installs on the speedo cable. From there the diagnosis connector for the scanner and a check engine lamp (now called the service engine soon), other than getting 12 volts battery and a full 12 volt ignition wiring (in cranking) it is pretty easy. You can looking into using a Howell harness. The computer can not be re-programmed, the chip must be changed if you end up with a computer from a VATS car (1988 and up for the F-body).

[cjohnson6772]

I did an install a few years back. My tpi unit is off a 1986 camaro. I used a speed density computer set up from a '90 camaro. I would highly recommend you get in touch with affordable fuel injection at . They sell you a harness and a chip custom burned to your specs. I got rid of the vats and vehicle speed sensor and gave them my cam and engine specs. Chip and harness are great quality. Great service. Talk to Norm if you call.

[cjohnson6772]

http://www.affordable-fuel-injection.com

link got messed up above

[Steve Van Gent]

OK-I have read info on this swap. Appears to be straight forward. THe main question I have is fuel-related. In our trucks, what is the best method of pumping fuel that meets the pressure requirements and least intrusive? It appears to me that our rubber fuel lines are inadequet for the pressure, and the return must be tanken to bottom of tank to reduce splashing, and ideally use an in-tank pump to get the minimum required 40PSI to fuel rail. Anyone have experience in this?

[cjohnson6772]

I can only speak to what I did. I had a '72 truck which already has a return line run to the factory sending unit. I used the filter and frame mounted pump from a 1988 F-150 351W with fuel injection. The pump and filter are mounted to my frame rail on the passenger side towards the rear of the cab. I utilized the factory hard lines that run the length of the frame rail. Then I added aluminum line to run across the cross member at the front of the frame and up to the tpi fuel rail. 1988 F-150 351W. Easy to work with. Cheap. Sufficient. And available at any parts store in case you break down in the middle of nowhere. K.I.S.S. design philosophy. Keep It Simple Stupid

[cjohnson6772]

I did forget to mention that anywhere there is factory rubber lines then you will need to upgrade to goodyear fuel injection hose. I used about 2 ft total for both lines. And I would definitely double clamp every end with good radiator style clamps. Use AN fittings where possible.

[cjohnson6772]

sorry this is the best pic i have right now

[heavy70]

plug and play... Haywireinc.com

[cjohnson6772]

I can take better pics of the way I have everything mounted up in a few days if it would help. Just let me know. I'll be back with my truck on Thursday and should be able to snap some pics.

[406 Q-ship]

Fuel lines will have to upgated to fuel injection hoses. the ends of the hard lines will require a better barb and double clamp the hose on to it. I would use a frame mounted fuel pump like a that is internally regulated to 50 psi then let the fuel rail mounted regulator break that to 40-45 psi. A return line will need to added to truck, some 1970 and later will have a 1/4" line that can be used. The return line into the tank should be down into the bottom of the tank and pointed away from the fuel tank pick up. You could just run teflon braided -6 in place of the steel fuel line.

[Steve Van Gent]

Yes, any pics will help.

BTW, here are pics of my $300 TPI with 700R4...Not many of the tranny....

Notice there are some dents in pipes, is there easy way to remove dents, or does one have to buy new pipes for dent-free?

[cjohnson6772]

I've never heard of an easy way to remove the dents......although Edelbrock sells a very ncie set of high flow runners :P

[Steve Van Gent]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

i've never heard of an easy way to remove the dents......although edelbrock sells a very ncie set of high flow runners :p

see freezer trick posting!!!

[cjohnson6772]

Originally Posted by Steve Van Gent

see freezer trick posting!!!

Very cool. Anxious to see pics of how this turned out.

Btw I don't what harness you're using and how long it is, but when I ordered my harness I chose to have it made longer than standard (common option) and I have plenty of harness to run my ecm into the cab. My harness is routed through an existing hole in the firewall. I used a hole low on the driver side of the firewall kinda in between the brake and gas pedals. It is a very large hole with plenty of room for connectors to pass through. Originally there was a clutch rod block off cover over the hole. Unscrew the cover and enjoy without having to punch a large hole in your firewall I routed my harness behind the dash and the ecm and and ALDL are in the glove box area.

[classicchev]

got one in my Crew Cab... Used a Painless harness, would highly recommend a aftermarket harness, save yourself the headaches.

[red71cheyenne]

I second just having your Prom burnt to your specs. Cam, hp, vats or not, vss or not. Real easy. I bought all of my electronics and harness from Jims Performance, he is real good to deal with and warranties his stuff. Due a deployment, my ECU sat for a year and went bad. He replaced it for free. No problems since. Other than my fuel pump going out once. I put it too farm from the tank I think. No more than four feet is a good rule to follow.

On fuel, I removed the tank from in the cab due to the fumes I was getting on the return side. Originally though, I used the in cab tank, I just went with a high pressure external pump from Autozone, runs about $100 and ran the return right back to the original tank return. I did double clamp at the fuel rail where it goes in to the TPI, but that is the only place. My fuel pressure regulator is stock, not adjustable, so no idea what the actual pressure is.

I did just swap in some 19# injectors to see if I can get a little better mileage out of it, I was running 24# as recommended. It still starts and runs fine, but I haven't run two tanks of gas through it yet to see if it is doing better than its previous 12-14 in town.

[vasquezmrysvll]

there are a set of PRISTINE runners at the local yard, not sure what they want for them.... i just sold a pair on a camaro forum for $55 dent free.