47-55.1 AD wiring

[dsraven]

forgot to mention that a lot of the old ford systems used a starter that had no solenoid on it to draw the starter drive into the flywheel. the starter was energized through a simple cable connection directly on the starter motor, this put power directly into the windings of the starter and made a magnetic field. this filed drew/moved a lever on the side of the motor, in the tin shroud/bump on the side of the starter, and that lever also moved the bendix forward into the flywheel. as the lever moved to the end of it's travel it would close a contact switch which then made the motor get power and start to turn. that is why they had the starter relay on the fender, no solenoid on the starter. the starters with the solenoid on the starter are made to have the battery cable connected directly to the solenoid. some, like older chevy's, also use that terminal to connect power to the rest of the system and have fusible links in the circuit shortly after that connection. newer style wiring, with the fuse/relay box under the hood, would simply run the battery wire to the starter solenoid and also run a batter wire to the fuse/relay box which would house the jumbo fuses and/or the plug in fusible links. from there circuits would run into the under dash fuse box for circuits inside the vehicle that may not require large draw protection. sometimes the inside cab fuse box is simply to fuse the signal circuits that turn on the large draw relays in the fuse/relay box under the hood. so simply put, the under dash fuse box supplies the switch in the dash or steering column for the headlights. this circuit uses small gauge wire because it is simply a signal circuit that needs to supply just enough amperage to turn on a relay in the underhood fuse/relay box. the wiring harness under the dash is smaller and more flexible because it has smaller gauge wires in it. when you turn on the headlights the signal circuit powers the relay under the hood and it turns on to switch the larger gauge wiring required to run the larger amp circuit. this circuit is protected with the appropriately sized fuses or fusible links for the draw required of the circuit and also has the appropriately sized wire. a fusible link would be used for circuits that have a large start up draw, like a heater motor, that may blow a fuse when the motor is first trying to start, after it is turning the draw is less. a regular fuse may simply blow when the motor is trying to start up. it would normally be fine once the motor is actually running. a fusible link is more of a slow burn so it can stand the quick power draw of a motor start up.
make sense? relevant? help anybody?
end of rant, lol.

https://www.autozone.com/external-en...36727_188531_0

[Matt_50]

I don't have a separate coil for the distributor. That mean mine is HEI? My buddy's mustang has a coil though and the above post is how his is run. Mine would be ran like my earlier diagram from MAD right?

Got wires loosely ran. Only hiccup, was that I accidentally ran the dome wire to the rear lol. It's still a mess but it's routed more or less. A few retaining clips will make it look good.

I've heard from a few people to go to a welding supply store for wire, considering what NAPA wanted to charge and that I have my wife's mustang and probably my buddy's mustang to eventually rewire, I think I will buy a hammer crimper.

Harbor freight has one right? It's not an electric item so should be good right?

[Matt_50]

How bout this?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/lincoln-ele...IaAqVbEALw_wcB

[dsraven]

those work fine and can be used in a vice as well.
if you have a gm distributor that is fairly big around at the wire towers then in is likely an hei. it should get battery power through a 12 ga wire when the key is in start or run position. these run best with 14 volts. if the wiring set you have was for a points truck then use a different set of wires, probably custom made by you, to supply voltage to the coil. the points vehicles had 2 wires that fed the coil, one was battery voltage to start the truck, the other was ballast resistor voltage, usually about 9v, to run the truck. these wires are also too small to run voltage to the hEI unit. the HEI coil wire was usually a pink kinda color and will plug into the distributor on the rearmost terminal of the plug closest to the outside of the plug in bock. the other one is for the tach and doesn't need to have a wire in the plug.check the video below for a better explanation.

here is a link to a video showing the HEI wiring

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5us-Zv1vbcc

here is a pic of an HEI unit.

https://www.amazon.ca/ACDelco-934408...40622144&psc=1

[Matt_50]

I do have two wires... one labeled "coil" the other labeled "tach".

I assumed the coil wirewould run straight to distributor for power?

[Matt_50]

Just looked, that coil wire has a 30 amp fuse...

[Matt_50]

Dsraven, are welding cables sizes the same as AWG?

Is a #2 = 2 gauge?

[Matt_50]

Can you guys help me make sure I have these right?

Above oil filter.... oil temp?

Passenger side of block.... oil pressure?

Driver side, just under manifold.... coolant temp?



And a picture of my starter. If I wire it to the ford solenoid... will I need a jumper wire on the starter itself coming off the power input?

[Matt_50]

Oops, here's picture of starter. As for the electric choke... the wire from fuse box goes to the 2nd plug and it's done right?

[Matt_50]

On my starter... I need a jumper wire between those two posts. I then run a wire from relay to the bigger stud on starter, which is opposite the power side. To activate the ford style relay I need to run power to only the s terminal through the ignition switch, or I guess it goes through neutral safety switch first, am I right?

Second series, you modified my diagram and showed a wire from s terminal and a ignition power wire to gm starter... if a jumper is used, I don't need the wire from gm starter to ignition anymore right?

[Second Series]

That sounds right. On a typical set up the battery would be connected to that big terminal. If you had a problem with the starter not working, and suspected the key switch, you could put a screwdriver across the big and small terminal to see if the starter spins. You'll need to energize the small terminal, so yes, put a jumper. Years ago a friend had a mustang that would sometimes fail to stop starting, turn the key to start, starts, release the key, starter motor continues to spin. Every time was a frantic race to get the battery disconnected. If I knew then what I know now...Could be the starter solenoid was not releasing.

[Matt_50]

Im slowly getting this figured out, thanks!

Now to figure out those sensors...


Got a bunch of goodiesin the mail today.

Brake light switch.
Headlight switch.
Ignition switch.
Ford starter relay.

Fan, it fits! I need to figure out how to mount it, I'm assuming using provided zip ties isn't ideal???

Yesterday I got some wiring harness wrap tape, I'll use it where there are gaps in loom.

May have already mentioned but I also got some dual/glue heat shrink.

[Matt_50]

Remember the 50 dollar gauges? I think this is a great temporary setup. Need a little adjusdtment and I need to go get some hold down nuts.

[Matt_50]

Got a little off subject on another thread but a couple things make a lot more sense now. I installed my two terminal blocks. The 10ga wire in the kit goes from the positive side of the solenoid back into the cab. I put a terminal block in that line. A fusible link or circuit breaker needs to go in before the 10ga goes back into the cab but I'm not clear what size to get. 50 amp? 100 amp?

From that 1st block I ran a 10ga wire to the 2nd block I put on the driver side inner fender for my relays to reach. 10ga is enough since the original wire is 10ga right? I'm also not clear what size breakers I need for headlight and fan relays...

I got the starter solenoid on and I have the alternator wires almost done. Hooked up the oil pressure sender, distributor power coolant temp sender, and the electric choke wire. And I mounted the fan, just not wired yet.

[Matt_50]

Didn't get a picture but I got the low and high beam relays mounted and wired.

I also wired 2 relays for my fan. Following Mark's advice at MAD electrical. Mounted temp switch/sender in the manifold, where I removed heater hose port. Not sure if I should move it to a hose or get a probe type...

I had a few wires I had to redo... I think three where I forgot to put heat shrink first lol.

[Matt_50]

Got a couple things done today. My truck came with two dome lights, there were extra stuff under the seat. So I had an extra one if I messed this up lol.

I took one apart to see how it was wired. Big surprise, old wires with insulation that kinda fell apart if I messed with it. I took the contact out to see how it was put together. And with some advice from Deve at Deves TechNet, I found another contact and got it back in working order. These lights take a single wire contact and I just happened to have a couple of new unopened license plate lights I have had for years.

I had to play with it a bit. Looks like you could easily make your own if you had the right terminal end or even just solder on the end of a wire. Anyways the license plate contact had a couple rubber pieces and a spring. No matter what combination I did, adding pieces and taking away, I couldn't get it and a bulb to fit.

But, I could reuse the little plastic piece and spring from the original wire. I added a little piece a heatshrink on the end, I'd hate for the spring and wire to touch. Using the original pieces, it fit just fine and a ring terminal on the other end and it was done! Now to actually install it.

Also mounted my horns from the donor behind the grille.


I'll post pictures when I get home.

[Matt_50]

Forgot to post the pics.

[Matt_50]

Couple more.

[Matt_50]

My gauges have lights in them. How do I wire the power for just the lights? Do they stay on all the time or can I wire the power wire for just the lights over to headlight switch?


One light for each gauge. And here's a picture of the headlight switch wiring.

[dsraven]

sorry no time to explain. maybe this will help.

https://www.americanautowire.com/vie...uit-functions/

[Matt_50]

I ordered a new neutral safety switch. I have some female terminals but I dug through the donors wiring and found the plugs off of it. The one between the start wire had a piece in it. Not sure if it was a bypass piece or just broke off the old switch but black part felt rubbery. See pictures.

The plugs and wires from the 84 c10 harness still look good so I figured it was safe to splice them into my new harness. I haven't yet, thought I'd get yalls opinion. The start wire on my wiring goes to a ford starter solenoid on the firewall that will power the gm starter solenoid on the starter.


The EZ harness has green wires for the back up lights, just dangling under dash right now. But the starter wire goes straight from ignition switch to the solenoid. In the box are two separate wires. A neutral safety switch wire and a instrument panel wire.

[Matt_50]

I've gotten a few easy things done and I have cleanedbup my wiring diagram a little more too. Yesterday I got the starter wired up and now I'm onto the grounds. From battery to alternator bracket is easy enough.

What about engine to frame? I found a stud on back of head and I can easily get to a factory hole on frame near it. It's a lot more room than on front of engine.

Can I use the same stud to go from engine to firewall? Just drill a hole and use a bolt anywhere I want on the wall?

Do I need to go from frame to body anywhere also?

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

I've gotten a few easy things done and I have cleanedbup my wiring diagram a little more too. Yesterday I got the starter wired up and now I'm onto the grounds. From battery to alternator bracket is easy enough.

What about engine to frame? I found a stud on back of head and I can easily get to a factory hole on frame near it. It's a lot more room than on front of engine.

Can I use the same stud to go from engine to firewall? Just drill a hole and use a bolt anywhere I want on the wall?

Do I need to go from frame to body anywhere also?

Mine is in that exact location you're showing. I think I got all my grounding straps off eBay or Amazon as a set.

Ground engine to frame. Ground passenger side cab to frame. Ground rear of frame to truck bed.

I think those are all the ones I have. I've seen some people run an extra one to the front grill area just in case the frame ground doesn't work for headlights and turn signal lamps.

The only additional place I'm not sure about is I seem to have some feedback internally when I hit the horn. Might just be the crusty 30yr old horn I'm using haha

[Matt_50]

Thanks! Could I run off that same spot on frame for the body too? Or is it better to drill a second hole?

And engine to body is not needed?

[72Blazer San Jose CA]

I put EZ Wiring in Old Cars and Trucks works fine. Your gauges and turn signals slight mods depending what you put in also light switch