Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by dug224

Thanks guys. Granddaughter Ana stopped by with her '32 and her dolls to help out.
[ATTACH]1636870[ATTACH]

Beautiful little girl. Reminds me of my granddaughter with the curly blonde hair too!

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

ha ha. thats cute. better get that girl some coveralls, gloves and safety glasses and put her to work if she is gonna hang around all the time. taking grampa's time. (like you would have it any other way). lookin good. keep it up and you'll be done. I keep telling myself if I can just get a few things done everyday then it is forward progress. seems like just shop cleaning lately. curious what your final number is for rocker panel height at the front ege, by the fender mount. I know you posted it in your build but I think that was before some other mods happened.

So, 10-7/8" is the height of the leading edge of the rocker where it meets the front fender. Keep in mind there is NO sheet metal on the truck so it will go down and amount I can't predict. Also, if you hold a level on the bottom of the leading edge of the rocker perpendicular to the frame, it measures exactly one inch below the frame.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Beautiful little girl. Reminds me of my granddaughter with the curly blonde hair too!

Agree. Thanks. Trying to make sure all the grand kids enjoy getting their hands dirty!

[Kim57]

Cute grandchild.
Repairs are looking good.
Kim

[dsraven]

hey dug, thanks again for the measurements, I really appreciate it. not sure what my final number will be but I captured the suspension at ride height with the envoy body still on the frame. that way I can build the old truck on top and when all done I can release the links and then adjust the springs to compensate. the rears have an air bag option so the frame is set up to accept a GM air bag above where the coil springs are presently. worst case scenario I can do bags in the rear. does yours have that as well?
sorry if the pics came out sideways, I uploaded them right side up. don't see a rotate button. you get the idea though.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

hey dug, thanks again for the measurements, I really appreciate it. not sure what my final number will be but I captured the suspension at ride height with the envoy body still on the frame. that way I can build the old truck on top and when all done I can release the links and then adjust the springs to compensate. the rears have an air bag option so the frame is set up to accept a GM air bag above where the coil springs are presently. worst case scenario I can do bags in the rear. does yours have that as well? sorry if the pics came out sideways, I uploaded them right side up. don't see a rotate button. you get the idea though.

No air bag option on mine. I figured I'd start slicing the springs if it's too high and, since I've had it loaded and I'm satisfied with the front stance, I suspect I'll just be trimming the back springs. My initial objective was to be able to utilize the entire suspension travel as GM engineered it. The only problem I have found so far is an occasional front tire rub when the wheel is turned sharply and I travel over a steep driveway ramp. Man, are those photos before or after the power wash? Lots of dirt!!!

I started having a rotation problem on my photos awhile back so I view them all in MS File Explorer and properly orient them as required. Haven't had any problems since.

[dsraven]

I can't figure out the pic thing. they are all right side up when I upload them.
the truck was a dirt road unit. you can prolly tell by the tire wear. that is AFTER a bunch of time with the pressure washer. you should have seen the dirt and rocks coming out of the frame. coulda used a fire hose for sure. the interior was a match. must have had the windows down a lot. the reason for the unit being a write off is that the drivers front tire blew out and the unit went off road and hit soimething. not hard. the headlight, bumper cover and fog light were broken and the driver's door and fender were dented. fixable but bent. they wrote it off due to the dirt factor I think.
gonna be some time spent with a sandblaster or at least a wire wheel when it is done getting grafted. then paint the frame before assembly.

[dsraven]

can you roll the fenders to eliminate the rub?

[bensimmons_05]

Looks awesome, DUG!! The maiden voyage was awesome! I really like the idea with the copper & Magnet too! Can't wait to see more.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by bensimmons_05

Looks awesome, DUG!! The maiden voyage was awesome! I really like the idea with the copper & Magnet too! Can't wait to see more.

Ben...nice build yourself!! I see you are moving about as fast as I am. Loved the sports car distraction. I've never seen one before. dug

[dsraven]

if you put some masking tape on the fenders and then make it rub the tires then you will see where the problem is. maybe just have to move the cab ahead or back a bit...




hahahaha, like thats gonna happen.

good luck. I keep checking you build to see the progress. nice.

[dsraven]

take a look at this site and part number. they make adjustable front struts for the ssr, which is the same as the trailblazer and envoy front struts.

KW 610 1007 kw suspension systems. maybe another company makes them as well. a coilover with a strut base and top bearing mount like stock.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

take a look at this site and part number. they make adjustable front struts for the ssr, which is the same as the trailblazer and envoy front struts.

KW 610 1007 kw suspension systems. maybe another company makes them as well. a coilover with a strut base and top bearing mount like stock.

Ouch....A little spendy at $2,294.99..... but would certainly do the job.

[dug224]

Because my goal is to get the cab to the blaster, I decided to leave the driver side where it is and move to the passenger side. I can clean up the welds and detail any missing welds when I get it back.

Passenger floor. One of the only sheet metal sections that was actually rusted through on the entire truck.


Decided to use my air chisel to remove the old pan. Since I decided not drill out any of the spot welds, it went pretty quickly.


Everything exposed. The floor had already separated from the short cantilevered beam so it came right off. I left the bolt pocket and old floor pan sheet metal that is around the pocket in place. I plan to go over the top of it with new pan. I'll probably build up a flange to sport weld to the trans tunnel. This will give the new floor pan something to sit on.


I opened up the hole around the bolt pocket so it dropped down level. I'll weld the gap around the pocket solid. Note that the top right floor pan structural bend does not line up. The second one from the right is perfect. When I flange that area I'll make some sort of adjustment to insure that the pan drops in and the misalignment is not as noticeable.


The floor pan and step sitting in place. Once I get these secured with the Cleco's, I'll start on the cab corner. Note the small screw jack under the door pillar. I didn't trust the truck not to move when I pulled it apart so I supported it in this location. Opened and closed the door a few times after the floor was out and everything appears to be still in place.

[ricott]

Look at the Beltech Front Coilovers described below. I would have pasted a picture, but couldn't get it to work. The person's website is: tbssowners.com Below is the description from the website. The reason I plan to use these - based on my notes- is the Trailblazer front end weight was several hundred pounds heaver than the estimated weight for the completed TF front end. These are direct bolt ins in a Trailblazer. You can substitute "lighter" springs with the Belltech setup for a smother ride. Good Luck.


Belltech Front Coilovers
• These coilovers will lower your Trailblazer SS up to 2.5 inches over stock. (3.25 inches on a non Trailblazer SS)
• Independent Compression/Rebound Adjustments
• Stainless Steel Body
• LIFETIME WARRANTY
• Cornering is greatly improved and no suffering in ride.
• I recommend DJM a arms so the truck will align/balljoint angle will be fixed available for $350 shipped. more info
$850 shipped lower 48 states. If you see it anywhere for cheaper shoot me a eamil to tony@tbssowners.com and I will do my best to beat it.
Price: $850.00

[dug224]

Originally Posted by ricott

Look at the Beltech Front Coilovers described below. I would have pasted a picture, but couldn't get it to work. The person's website is: tbssowners.com Below is the description from the website. The reason I plan to use these - based on my notes- is the Trailblazer front end weight was several hundred pounds heaver than the estimated weight for the completed TF front end. These are direct bolt ins in a Trailblazer. You can substitute "lighter" springs with the Belltech setup for a smother ride. Good Luck.


Belltech Front Coilovers
• These coilovers will lower your Trailblazer SS up to 2.5 inches over stock. (3.25 inches on a non Trailblazer SS)
• Independent Compression/Rebound Adjustments
• Stainless Steel Body
• LIFETIME WARRANTY
• Cornering is greatly improved and no suffering in ride.
• I recommend DJM a arms so the truck will align/balljoint angle will be fixed available for $350 shipped. more info
$850 shipped lower 48 states. If you see it anywhere for cheaper shoot me a eamil to tony@tbssowners.com and I will do my best to beat it.
Price: $850.00

Thanks! The truck could definitely use a smoother ride. Corners like a slot car with the current springs. Softer would be better. If ride height becomes an issue, I'll definitely review this option.

[dug224]

Floor pan flanges are in place and the pan install is about 95% complete.


I created a couple of flanges to tie the trans tunnel to the floor plan. Used some of the excess '95 Bed sheet metal to pull it off.


My appreciation of CLECO's grows exponentially every time I use them!! I can't imagine how much time I would have wasted without them.


My buddy Jim stepped over and executed the reshaping of the offset floor pan channel for me. Lined it right up and is no longer noticeable. A little body work on the sheet metal to the right of the channel and you'll never notice it....under the carpet!

[Kim57]

Repair looks real good.
Kim

[dug224]

Bad day for my buddy Jim. Jim had stepped (about 150 feet) over to my house to help me on passenger cab corner sheet metal reshaping during a pretty bad storm. He was there for about 10 minutes when we heard a really loud clap of thunder. We went on about our business for a few more minutes at which point we were notified by another neighbor that his house was on fire. His chimney took a direct hit and by the time we bolted back to his house, the entire chimney was engulfed and it had spread to his attic. It ultimately burned the top floor and the rest of the house, which includes the main floor and basement garage, suffered heavy smoke and water damage. On a positive note, his tools appear to be ok. Looks like an unplanned house renovation is next.

[ChuckDriver]

Wow! Sorry to see that, my condolence to Jim.

[dsraven]

wow, that looks like it is a major reno. being a firefighter myself I don't know how many times I have had to say to the occupants after something like this "at least no one was hurt" but I know it is a huge loss of irreplaceable personal effects and mementos plus the time spent in a rental or hotel suite. my thoughts and prayers go to the family. hopefully they can rebuild quickly.

[RockinKees]

Wow, that looks bad!
This must be a big shock for the family.....

[dug224]

Guys...thanks for the kind words for Jim. He appreciates it. Like a lot of other places in the world, the people here in the South take pride in helping out. From the incredible fire fighters/paramedics/cops who showed up initially to the responsive neighbors to the insuring parties, things are going as well (maybe better than) as could be expected. State Farm brought in ServerPro and they are really doing an incredible job salvaging what they can. Very impressive. Won't be long before he will be back up and running with a fully renovated house.

Jim and I took time out from fire duty and finished our discussion on modifying the flange/hole punch tool for a deeper flange. The tool somehow magically turns the action of the pneumatic piston shaft 180 degrees and pulls the flanging head down back towards the tool. It took us awhile to figure out that this tool is basically a pneumatically actuated hydraulic tool. Air pushes the big piston & shaft out which compresses the oil and forces the upper smaller piston back towards the tool. Too much info!!??

Flanging surfaces are a little uneven so I trued them up and took off 1/64" (this is a guess) with a hand file.


With the jaws together, I held them up to the light before I started filing. Lots of light indicating the surfaces were pretty uneven. I continued to file them a little at a time until the light went away.


Put it back together and it still works!! I ran it across the passenger cab corner flange and it made it a little deeper. I may take it apart one more time and take off a little bit more.

[dsraven]

there you go, being all creative and stuff. my wife says I'm not satisfied until I have had the new thing apart and know how it owrks, then usually change it to be my way. sounds like you may have the same problem, haha.
nice job.

[dug224]

Finally got the floor, step and cab corner welded into place. Still have to re-fit the cab corner floor plate like I did on the other side before it goes to blasting.

Getting better at the spot weld simulation. I was still leaving too much material so I started dialing the wire feed down incrementally. It worked pretty good. I just need to work on my consistency now.


Not much grinding done yet but it is all welded in.


Decent door gap. It is tapered but much better than the driver side.


Brothers put their dash repair panel on sale for $38 plus shipping so I pulled the trigger. All in at $55 including shipping.