Truck Intake Shave

[cebra]

This has been covered elsewhere but I couldn't find a step by step here so decided to post with some of my takeaways.

Step 1: I cut off all the tabs/ports/whatchamacallits from the manifold except the 3 nutserts for the throttle bracket. When cutting off the "port covers" with the + and the FPR, MAP, and PCV cut straight and as close to the manifold as possible so they can be reused. Save everything cut off.

Step 2: Shave the manifold smooth. I used a grinder, file, sand method. Grinder was a bit wild to use but I don't have a wide selection of tools.

Step 3: Use the "port covers" with the + to plug the large holes on the sides and some of the nutsert ones (see pic). I used the grinder to form mine to fit and drilled a hole in them to hold them in place with a drywall screw. I used other thick pieces to weld into the 3 holes across the top. Do not use the thin pieces to weld any of the holes as I did a test on these and was able to blast a screwdriver through them with ease where I wasn't on the intake itself. I wanted the pieces to be as strong/thick as the surrounding intake.

Step 4: Weld up the holes. I watched a few youtubes on this, I "tacked" these in using the poke clear through (see pic) method at the seams to see if they were bonded in enough to stab them with a screwdriver. If you only fill around the plug then you can break the weld with a good screwdriver stab (highly technical quality control). I then fill the holes created with other small pieces as weld. I got this plastic welder from harbor freight for $15, it worked well but the tip broke off quickly as I read it would. The flat part left after it breaks is better to weld with, I just used my weller to poke/weld the holes around the outside then used the plastic welder to fill in.

Step 5: File and sand smooth with 80 grit.

Step 6: Apply some sort of filler. I am risking it with bondo as I don't think it will get hot enough to make it pop but other fillers would probably be better. I saw a guy cover his entire manifold with 3M poly bond for strength but it is $$$.

This is where I am at now and will update further. I need to sand (80), bondo, weld in FPR/PCV/MAP on rear, sand entire manifold (80), adhesion promoter, primer, sand (200/400), paint. Some go one step further and sand/clear but I don't like rattle can clear.

[cebra]

You don't need a 1/2 pound of bondo as you would want as little left as possible in the end but I was watching tv and not paying much attention and it hardened a bit before I got it spread out.

[cebra]

I have heard of these things visibly flexing and cracking after doing this so I used the quality control method of trying to drive a screwdriver through my welds/plugs. Make sure your weld fills the seem top to bottom. I cut one out after developing the method to make sure it was clear through. The last thing I want is one of these plugs being sucked into my head.

[SunSoaked]

What's the point of all this? Looks?

[cebra]

Yes, just looks, I personally do not like the vortec covers, the raw truck intake is awful, and I don't want to spend the money on a car intake/rails/injectors/accessories swap for a 4.8 DD.

Bondo is now sanded down with 80, I will probably spend the rest of the workweek sanding the rest of the intake with 80 then start on the finer grit. I am hoping to weld the FPR, PCV/MAP "bungs" on the back before the weekend so I can get to adhesion promoter, prime, paint if the weather allows. I have seen some painted in a booth and polished up really nice but this is a DD so I am just spray bombing it without clear to get a more "this is what it may have looked like from the factory" look.

[LH Lead-Foot]

Cebra Nice job on execution, explanation and finish. I would like to wrap one in real carbon fibre just for looks and to be different. A vacuum bag would pull it around the bottom edges, then finish in high gloss. The fuel rail would still clear over the top. I would move the "Canister purge" to the side, in place of the "EGR" port. I think it would look even more clean. EGR is not used on many of the newer stuff, but pulling the fumes from the gas tank is getting the stuff you paid for.

If money was no object, we wouldn't be on this forum as we would pay someone else to do the work, using most if not all of the parts out there on the market.

Create engine $8k
Tubular front end w/4 piston brakes $6k
Rack & Pinion $3k
4 link rear suspension & diff $2k
Road Ripper trans $5k
Custom paint $6k
Custom Leather Interior $6k
Wheels & tires $2k
Digital dash $2k
Aluminum radiator w/fans $2k
Aftermarket wiring harness plus labor $2k
Big grin while driving "Priceless"

I don't think that I am related to Warren Buffet, so until that check clears...well I am going frugal without any problems sleeping.
It's easy to write a check, but saying you did it yourself is pride!

[cebra]

Is the "canister purge" that monstrosity that sits on the intake by the throttle body (about the size of a roll of quarters)? I wondered what that thing was and if it could be eliminated or relocated but have not made it that far yet. I have seen some people hydrodip them with pretty good success and I think a guy on here was going to sell them in this form at one point.

[cebra]

I welded in the FPR and PCV. They look horrid but I leaned on putting way more weld than necessary on there to ensure there are no leaks. I can't figure out a feasible way to test for leaks these with the limited tools I have. I used the "cutting tip" on a soldering iron to tack this all the way around; I made sure I burnt into both the plug and the manifold to make sure the welds were good and then stabbed at them with my screwdriver quality control method to make sure I couldn't poke through the weld anywhere around the plug... and then added a lot of plastic filler with the now broken (in a good way) plastic welder. My map plug is broke so I need to pick up some hardware to fix that and I have everything sanded up to 600 grit and cleaned at this point.

Pics are the FPR/PCV/MAP, the holes drilled for them, the "plugs" welded in, and the tools I am using. A key note is to make sure to save every piece you cut off originally as I am running pretty low on scrap pieces for weld filler, I have heard that you can use a black $1 Walmart spatula for filler though as it is Plastic 66 if you run out.

[LH Lead-Foot]

The canister purge valve or solenoid sits on top, pointing straight up. It is right behind the throttle valve. On the passenger's side, next to the throttle valve is the "EGR" or block-off plate held in place with one bolt. It is at a 90 degrees angle left when looking from the front. They look almost interchangeable.

The point I have to make about both, when it comes to re-locating things is the "EGR" & "Canister Purge" both have to deliver their gasses to ALL of the cylinders to be equal. Thus, they are at the front so to effectively deliver spent exhaust or fuel fumes to all cylinders down-wind. If not, some cylinders would receive more "EGR" than others. Same it true for outside gas fumes that are not controlled delivery by the PCM. The purge opens only while off idle, driving above a predetermined speed and maybe pulse width modulated. The PCM controls this event and looks for extra rich fuel by looking at the pre-cat O2 sensors on both banks on a "V" configured engine.
This is part of OBD-II to check the purge valve operation, other wise it show a failed test and store a screen capture of all "PID's" at that time. Since it is a type "B" code, it has to fail the test twice before it turns on the CEL, and store a second set of fail records.
Same with the "EGR" valve if equipped. Both gasses have to be delivered equally & common to all cylinders.

Most all of us own other vehicles or family and many equipped with a 4 cylinder, EGR is delivered into a cast port as part of the intake design. The far end of this internal passage can run cooler and cause EGR gasses to solidify and block off passage to cylinder #4. As time passes, it reaches cylinder #3. At this point, all of the EGR gasses are being delivered to cylinders #2 & #1. (Depending on EGR location and cylinder numbering)
This spent exhaust gas displaces the normal air (Atmospheric Gas) and effect volumetric efficiency. Not getting enough oxygen causes #2 & #1 to develop a lean-misfire while driving because the EGR is off at idle or cold engine temps. Toyota, some Honda's & other is a common problem with high mileage vehicles. In most cases, there is a "Frost-Plug" looking cap, driven into the passage at the end of the intake. It can be remove and the EGR port cleaned. Most has a "TSB" on this issue with procedure and parts if needed like a new plug.

I have done this procedure several times over the years. With scan-tool on misfire chart, off idle you manual open the EGR valve and see what happens. If opened at idle, the engine will stall & die. A small screw driver or wedge under the throttle stop screw can help you maintain, say 1,200 RPM's for the test.

Only raw fuel being dumped into the exhaust due to stuck injector, no spark but still getting fuel (And other reasons) will cause O2 sensor reading high quickly and cause a catalytic convertor threatening condition and the PCM will turn the CEL on 1 time per second...This is bad. Cat over heats, expands and the ceramic core can break, turn sideways, block exhaust or just plain rattle. Vehicle in the 80's used beads in the cat so not so much a problem.

Unleaded fuel and cat's where required by the DOT starting on production date of 7/1979 for all passenger cars. I was at the dealer when 4 or 8 vehicles where delivered and half had cats, stickers, restrictions in the filler necks and "Unleaded Fuel" on the gas gauge. Many imports where clean enough, they did not need it until it was required.
Just sharing the history, fixes and reducing headaches.

[cebra]

I welded in the MAP port, mine had a tab broke off of it so I used JB Weld: Plastic Weld on some small bolts to hold the MAP tight. I will use a small metal strip across the bolts to hold the MAP snug. I finished sanding with 600, cleaned the intake with alcohol, taped off the holes, sprayed bonding primer (Bulldog Adhesion Promoter would be better but at $33 a can I couldn't justify it for this intake), and then sprayed filler primer. I will sand the filler primer down with 600 and then spray the top coat.

[LH Lead-Foot]

Nice job with intake and photos. It is harder than you think to get good photo shots with light, angles & everything involved.

Good job overall and thanks for sharing!

[cebra]

I originally painted the intake silver but it appeared to me that I was trying to fake an aluminum intake so I resprayed it flat black and like the results much better. Here is the completed intake. To reiterate steps that I took in short order:

1. Cut off all tabs and ports (save them).
2. Smooth the top via grinding or sanding.
3. Plastic weld in holes on top.
4. Move FPR, PCV, MAP to rear of manifold.
5. Bondo, sand, adhesion promoter, filler primer, sand, paint.