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Old 04-20-2018, 10:30 AM   #26
made2drag
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Re: hydraulic lock up converter removal or adjustment help

Its a late 86 700r4 with 87-like serial code. 6ykm-y-00258537 .I gave the solenoid 12v at pin "A" and chassis ground at pin "D" and it clicked once and never again. I didn't pull the pan to trace the wires to the connector but spent an hour scouring threads and everyone was using A and D. So I either burnt it up or its stuck in activated position. I don't think it gave me a click click, just click.
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:41 PM   #27
frank-67_c10
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Re: hydraulic lock up converter removal or adjustment help

Hello I'm new here. I'm Frank from Oklahoma I am a proud owner of a 67 c10 with a 350 engine and I had a 350 tranny. Well it crapped out so I installed a 86 700r4 everything is working perfect except I need to hook up the TCC plug... My question is. Can I just run a power wire from the brake switch to pin A. If anyone has any easy ways to do this please help I can't afford a kit right now and I can't afford another tranny
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Old 11-09-2018, 09:03 PM   #28
tdangle
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Re: hydraulic lock up converter removal or adjustment help

Quote:
Originally Posted by frank-67_c10 View Post
Hello I'm new here. I'm Frank from Oklahoma I am a proud owner of a 67 c10 with a 350 engine and I had a 350 tranny. Well it crapped out so I installed a 86 700r4 everything is working perfect except I need to hook up the TCC plug... My question is. Can I just run a power wire from the brake switch to pin A. If anyone has any easy ways to do this please help I can't afford a kit right now and I can't afford another tranny
Sort of. The 4th gear pressure switch needs to be a normal open type switch. You run 12V to one side of the TCC Solenoid and then the other lead to the pressure switch (assuming you have a switch with one post) When you hit 4th gear the pressure will close the switch grounding the lead from the TCC Solenoid and the converter will lock up. thats the basic way to wire it. You should only use a switched 12v line, an inline fuse is cheap protection. You can always add a 2 part brake light switch (used in early cars/trucks with cruse control) you feed the 12V thru the normally close portion of the switch and this will unlock the TC when you hit the brakes. Optionally, (which I'm going to hook up one of these days) is a vac switch that will also disconnect power to the lockup when vacuum drops below a set value This would help in situations such as going up a hill where it will unlock and you will get the torque multiplication of the TC. I bought everything I needed less the wire from Amazon. I don't think I have $50 in it total. If you don't have the case plug, scour pick a part for one or you can also buy one on Amazon.
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1970 Custom Camper/C20 , GM Crate 350/7004R, Dana 60, factory AC
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Old 11-09-2018, 09:58 PM   #29
frank-67_c10
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Re: hydraulic lock up converter removal or adjustment help

Thread Thank You I will get a different brake switch and go that route I have been confused because slot of the diagrams I have researched don't make much sense to me and I'm pretty smart with wiring and circuits if you come across a good diagram that would be great if you could send one...
I appreciate you very much
Sincerely Frank
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