Jinxy's 69 C10 Short Bed - let the journey begin

[Jinxy81]

Hello everyone, I am new here on the forum but I have been lurking for a few years! My dad bough this 69 Chevy C10 2WD short bed over 20 years ago when he was in the Air Force. I remember him driving it up the driveway the day he got it! He started working on it, removing some rusty rockers and the cab that had rusted around the lip, and installed a new cab from a donor truck. That’s where it stopped. I got into go-kart racing and we spent quite a few years doing that, not to mention quite a bit of money.

So now, I’m going to take over funding the project of rebuilding the truck. We are going to do what work we can on it together and probably farm out the body/paint work. My main goal over the next few months is to remove the body, old engine/tranny, suspension etc and get it to the bare frame where I can start cleaning and prepping for suspension updates and painting the frame.

I do not want to go overboard on the suspension, but I would like to have a nice stance and handling without having to notch the frame or air bag it with 20” wheels. ECE is highly regarded on this website so I was thinking of the following and I would love to get some advice/thoughts on getting the rolling chassis set up first with the items below. If you think there are better or more cost effective methods please let me know!:

-ECE 4/6 drop kit 800.00
-ECE Trailing Arm and Crossmember Kit 689.00
-ECE Disk Brake Conversion 6 Lug 2.5 Drop w/Cross Drilled Rotors 999.00 (need to omit/adj price since the spindles are in the drop kit)
-ECE Rear Drum brake Rebuild Kit 239.00
-ECE Front Sway Bar Kit 169.00

I am also starting to research what I need to do to update the rear end as well. I know I will want 6 lug axles, but I am reading that its worth it to omit the c-clip set up and get a beafier retainer system? Suggestions on this along with what Posi to install?

Here are some pics of the truck....

[cooperhw]

It sounds like this will be your first complete build. I don't suppose we can talk you out of busting it down further? Usually not.
My suggestion would be to get it running, stopping, maybe even driving. these things will cause the truck to put a smile on your face. that's a nice thing when you start spending money like a drunk sailor with no end in sight. It's real easy to jump off the deep end and the water is really deep quick. Usually what happens is one day you don't feel like working on it and it sits for a week or two. Especially when it's busted apart and you know that you can spends thousands, and months more work and it will not be done.
It's intoxicating to dig in with all your might, mind, and strength. At first. Then less as time goes on. If you got it running you could address a ton of issues then worry about ride height once you are on the road.
Good Luck.

[Xeen]

Welcome to the board and congratulations on being a Chevy truck owner, you are one lucky guy to get your dads classic truck!
It looks like a well optioned truck that is in fair overall condition.
I can see that your pops replaced the roof and started cutting out the cancer in the floor so you are halfway there on the cab repairs, I would order the patch panels and complete the floor repairs, buy Made in the USA only parts because the Chinese stuff fits like crap and causes fit and fair issues.
Just a heads up, it will be much cheaper to buy a good Mig welder and do the metal repair yourself than to farm it out, if you don't know how to weld and fabricate now is the time to learn, it is an invaluable skill which will enable you to have the confidence to make any repair and will serve you well in the future.
Spend time looking at other peoples builds especially the ones that require extensive rust repair and pay close attention to their technique because you can learn a lot from these guys, they are doing it right and you will learn what to do and what not to do before you even start on the cab repair, learn from them so you do it right the first time.
The most important piece of advice I can give you is, slow down, take your time, measure the hell out of everything, be precise.
If the truck is currently within reasonable mechanical repair, I'm with cooperhw, do the metal repair, seal it up and put it back together and get it running and driving and enjoy the truck before you tear it down completely for a restomod.

[Jinxy81]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Welcome to the board and congratulations on being a Chevy truck owner, you are one lucky guy to get your dads classic truck!
It looks like a well optioned truck that is in fair overall condition.
I can see that your pops replaced the roof and started cutting out the cancer in the floor so you are halfway there on the cab repairs, I would order the patch panels and complete the floor repairs, buy Made in the USA only parts because the Chinese stuff fits like crap and causes fit and fair issues.
Just a heads up, it will be much cheaper to buy a good Mig welder and do the metal repair yourself than to farm it out, if you don't know how to weld and fabricate now is the time to learn, it is an invaluable skill which will enable you to have the confidence to make any repair and will serve you well in the future.
Spend time looking at other peoples builds especially the ones that require extensive rust repair and pay close attention to their technique because you can learn a lot from these guys, they are doing it right and you will learn what to do and what not to do before you even start on the cab repair, learn from them so you do it right the first time.
The most important piece of advice I can give you is, slow down, take your time, measure the hell out of everything, be precise.
If the truck is currently within reasonable mechanical repair, I'm with cooperhw, do the metal repair, seal it up and put it back together and get it running and driving and enjoy the truck before you tear it down completely for a restomod.

Luckily my dad is a welder and he taught me. We have a good mig, so I think we can get some of the body parts welded in...I'm just not much of a body putty/paint man (which we will farm out). Honestly I wouldn't care to get the rolling chassis done and engine going and put back together and paint later down the road.

I do like the advice of getting it driving and enjoying it. I know for sure the brakes are no good as my dad stated there were basically none when he drove it home. So I would like to get that conversion done and I hate to not go ahead and do some of the suspension upgrades while doing that...

[Jinxy81]

Well, slowly but surely we are getting it taken apart. I only get to work on it about every two weeks. Several trips and a lot of time were spend cleaning a path around and to the truck so we could roll it out. The breaks were locked up on the rear so we got them worked loose. This is the first time this truck has been out in the daylight in about 25 years! We removed the bed, the other fender, and radiator support. Next will be cab and drive train and then sand blasting the frame.

Here are some more pics...





Dad lifting the bed off with our home made lift/jig







I wish they would have left the original gold color!!

[swamp rat]

Thank your dad, nice project!

[Jinxy81]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Thank your dad, nice project!

Definitely! We came to a fair price on the truck! It wasn't free!!

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Jinxy81

Definitely! We came to a fair price on the truck! It wasn't free!!

HAHA that sounds like my pops, nothing in life is free son, even though it's been paid off for 20 years and I only paid $1,000 for it you have to buy it from me, it's the principle of the thing.
So you decided to go ahead and do a frame off restoration instead of just getting it driving and enjoying it for awhile.

A little bit of advice if I may.
Prepare yourself because it's going to take awhile especially if you only work on it a couple of hours every couple of weeks.
The longer the project gets drawn out the less motivated you will be to finish it so I advise you to work extremely hard to get it torn apart and to the sand blaster as fast as possible.
Once you have it back from the sand blaster seal it up with por-15 rust preventative then assemble it quickly and get it back to a rolling chassis so you have a sense of accomplishment.
Do the metal repair on the cab floor then strip the exterior of the floor and seal it with POR-15 rust preventative coating and it will never rust again, ever.
Oh and do yourself a favor and wear gloves, old jeans and long sleeve shirt because por-15 is no joke if you get it on your skin it will be on there for over a week.
Once you are to this point then the fun starts.

[Jinxy81]

Made some very good progress today! We got the cab off and the engine/trans out. I started scraping road grime and grease off and started pressure washing. Next trip I will begin removing suspension so I can get the frame sandblasted. I also gave my dad a haircut during some downtime hahaha

[Xeen]

Try one of these on the roof and anywhere else where you can effectively use it.
Lay it down as flat as possible and only use as much pressure as is needed to remove the rust.
Don't try to remove everything on the first pass, you can always go back over it.
One disk should be enough to complete the roof and then some.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-h...eel-94017.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...der-91223.html

[Jinxy81]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Try one of these on the roof and anywhere else where you can effectively use it.
Lay it down as flat as possible and only use as much pressure as is needed to remove the rust.
Don't try to remove everything on the first pass, you can always go back over it.
One disk should be enough to complete the roof and then some.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-h...eel-94017.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...der-91223.html

Thanks for this info!

I have some questions on taking this to get it sand blasted. I will be removing the rear end, trailing arms/trailing arm crossmember (as it will be replaced). I will also be removing the front suspension...is it necessary to remove the front crossmember for sand blasting? I see a lot of people do...

[Xeen]

Generally the rule of thumb is don't let anyone sand blast sheet metal that has large surface areas with no structural support behind it because it will warp if done incorrectly and it isn't worth the risk, which is why I recommended the polycarbide disk for the roof, you can also use it on the hood, door skin and bedsides.
Sand blasting is usually best in areas with thick metal or layers of metal, I would definitely have the frame, front cross member, and control arms sand blasted, if you are using them in the build.
When you talk to the guy about the job ask him what their hourly rate is and don't let them quote you up front because they will over bill you to cover their ass, tell them to let you know when it's done and you will come pick it up and leave it at that.

[Jinxy81]

Well spring is back around and here is what we have completed in three 7hr Fridays
I ordered about 400lbs of parts from ECE that will be here tomorrow!

-Suspension and rear end removed.
-Old brake lines removed
-Front crossmember removed and transmission crossmember removed
-Front end disassembled
-Frame and components getting sand blasted this week!

[Jinxy81]

I haven't made any updates in a few weeks! We have made some good progress lately! Its helping me stay very motivated. Got the frame, front crossmember, trailing arms, lower control arms painted and things are going back together!

Frame after sand blasting...



Frame after primer...



Frame after painting...



Boy was this a fun experience!!



My dad stitch welding the trailing arms...






Today we got the front crossmember and spindles in as well as the front sway bar...







Tomorrow I will be painting rear axle housing and hopefully plumbing brakes next week!

[zicc1835]

nice work nice truck to start with ill be coming along for the ride

[Jinxy81]

A little more progress! I got the rear end blasted, primed it and painted it. Removed old bearings and seals and installed new. Waiting on a few parts to finish up the rear drum breaks then I will bolt them on and install new 5 lug axles.









Meanwhile, my dad sourced some pipe (for free!) and started installing in the crossmember for exhaust routing.



Also got the heart! 6.0 LY6 with cam (224/234@.050 .612/638 lift), stronger push rods and springs. Reman 4l80e with 2500 stall.

[MMcMasters]

Very cool! I can't wait to follow along with ya!

Mike

[Jinxy81]

Chipping away, slowly but surely. Not as much progress today as I wanted, but hey..its still a good day when you get to work on your ride.

I was hoping to have it on all 4 wheels today, but I wasn't able to get the rear axle in. Hopefully I can find some time this weekend.

-Installed front brakes
-Trailing arms ready to accept axle housing
-5 lug axles installed
-Completed rear drum brakes

[CadeDesigns]

hey there jinxy81.. nice progress.. im looking at a truck im buying tomorrow (68 c10 stock) and what you have done to yours is my thought exactly.. might need some help here in the near future.. wanting to do it right of course and not owning a chevy truck before.. i have alot to learn yet.. again.. im definately jealous of all youve done.. and looks awesome bro!

[Jinxy81]

Originally Posted by CadeDesigns

hey there jinxy81.. nice progress.. im looking at a truck im buying tomorrow (68 c10 stock) and what you have done to yours is my thought exactly.. might need some help here in the near future.. wanting to do it right of course and not owning a chevy truck before.. i have alot to learn yet.. again.. im definately jealous of all youve done.. and looks awesome bro!

Thats awesome! I hope it all works out! This is my first full resto on any vehicle. Without my dad's welding/burning skills I wouldn't be as far along as I am. I am basically the assembly/detail man. A few things I did deviate away from after researching a lot was the:

-6 lug axles
-rear disk brakes
-new trailing arms

After talking to the guys at Early Classic and researching, I decided I would have more wheel options with five lugs. Also the rear drum breaks (rebuilt) would be sufficient for what I am doing with the truck, they just don't look as trick! Stitch welding the trailing arms will help beef them up from all the input from members on this site!

I have also discovered that my Early Classic super track bar will not work with the Moser Rear end cover I purchased (based on research). I purchased a CPP bent track bar. Once I get the rear end on I will know for sure. So I may have the Early Classic super track bar as a discounted item for sale!

[swamp rat]

Nice roller!

[bs46488]

Nice project. Great looking truck you are putting together

[CadeDesigns]

ok totally understand the 5 lug swap.. other stuff ill have to look into.. already checked out 6 lug. not too many "cool" options.. so im definately doing the disc and drum first before wheels and tires.. also.. the truck is ours!!.. getting married in 3 weeks then we move when we get back from vegas.. then we go get it!!! going nuts though waiting.. lol.. where are you buying your parts from? hope to post pics once i upload them..

[CadeDesigns]

heres some more pics of my truck..

[Jinxy81]

Originally Posted by CadeDesigns

getting married in 3 weeks then we move when we get back from vegas.. then we go get it!!! going nuts though waiting.. lol.. where are you buying your parts from? heres some more pics of my truck..

Congrats on getting married and that is a great looking truck to start with I have ordered most of my parts from early classic enterprises. Some of my CPP parts (upper control arms/bent rear trac bar) I ordered from Summit as they are a few hours from me.

Make sure you start a build thread so we can all follow along!