Brake line routing

[jeffs56]

Hey guys I’m getting ready to install brake lines on my 56 Chevy truck. I was going to run the stock master cylinder and drums up front. But my problem is I have 6 lug in the front and 5 lug in the rear. So I was thinking I might as well upgrade the front to discs to get both 5 lug. So I was wondering do you guys recommend a prebent brake line kit or do I need to bend my own since I’ll be adding the dual booste and master cylinder? Thank you

[MiraclePieCo]

"...while I'm at it I might as well..." Famous last words, lol!

I bend and flare my own brake lines so I can't really advise on the pre-bent ones.

[1project2many]

It might be better to make your own. You know they'll fit and you can ensure they are routed properly. And if you make any changes to the truck in the future you might find it easier to change or remake the lines to accomodate a new configuration.

[hogfarm]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

"...while I'm at it I might as well..." Famous last words, lol!

I bend and flare my own brake lines so I can't really advise on the pre-bent ones.

I do same

[jeffs56]

Ok sounds good. I heard the NiCopp brake lines are the best to go with. Easy to bend. Is that a good choice? What size is needed. Thanks

[1project2many]

Nicop lines are easy to bend. They are also very soft and abrade very quickly. I always make sure the lines are secured in brackets or clips no more than two feet apart and I always try to ensure nothing such as a loose hose or wire is left to chafe against the lines.

Brake line diameter is generally a function of how much fluid needs to be moved. You will typically find 1/4" lines to drum brakes where wheel cylinders need to move shoes over a larger distance quickly. And you will often find 3/16" lines to disc brakes where the pads are always in close contact with the rotors.

[dsraven]

check this little blurb from napa on brake and fuel lines

http://knowhow.napaonline.com/tips-f...nd-fuel-lines/

and another from hotrodhotline, some fluff in this one but also some good technique as well

s://www.hotrodhotline.com/content/bending-brake-lines-jim-clark#.W7DwRmhKiUk

another from hotrod network. they have some spendy tools for flaring. they do a great job but you could also simply purchase the proper length of previously flared line and then bend to suit your needs

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/brak...g-and-flaring/


here are a few tools that seem to do the job well that I have in my box

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool.html

https://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/ass...Flaring-17.jpg

I have one of these but hardly ever use it due to poor finish and possible flattening of the line

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...nder/48587_0_0

I also have one like this but prefer not to use it. I just find the finished product isn't that awesome

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...nder/52403_0_0

I have one like this, except it does only one size of tubing per tool, and it is my go-to bender if I have the space for it. it always gives a nice, uniform bend without crushing, flattening or otherwise distorting the tubing and also a degree marking

https://www.eastwood.com/triple-head...16-3-8-in.html

if planning on making your own lines, you may also need a couple of sizes of tubing cutters. this small one is handy but not required unless you need to do some work on lines previously installed

https://www.restore-an-old-car.com/i...ing-cutter.jpg

one like this, that is made for your size of tubing, is usually required

https://hotrodhotline.com/md/assets/...aFlaring-3.jpg

along with a tapered reamer to eliminate the burr from the cutting wheel

https://hotrodhotline.com/md/assets/...aFlaring-4.jpg


anyway, you get the idea. if you want a good bend that is accurate and reproducable then buy a bender that has a mandrel to fit the size of tubing you are working with and also has a degree marking so you can get the right angle. if double flaring your own ends use a quality tool and do a few practice flares so you know what works best. don't forget to install the nut on the line before doing the flare. everybody has done that mistake before, lol.

[dsraven]

when you purchase the booster/master make sure to get the master that is for the set up you have, disc/drum. you may also need some residual valves if the master is under the cab. also a proportioning valve (adjustable is nice but once adjusted you will likely leave it alone)

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by dsraven

when you purchase the booster/master make sure to get the master that is for the set up you have, disc/drum. you may also need some residual valves if the master is under the cab. also a proportioning valve (adjustable is nice but once adjusted you will likely leave it alone)

Best advice you can get right there.

Outside of redoing a stone stock restoration I don't see how one could get prebent lines to work without some tweaking before you are done.

I did brakes for a living for a number of years and often had to form new lines to replace damaged ones and in the process accumulated a drawer full of tube benders and I have not found any that are perfect yet.

For the do it yourself guy who doesn't bend brake or fuel lines on a continuing basis I'd say the nicopp is a real viable option. You can do a better job than with some options. True you want to add a few more clamps to support it but that isn't a big deal

That green coated stuff they sell at O'Reillys and other parts houses now is a bad joke for the most part. I have a terrible time getting good bends in it. It's ok for a mild zig or zag but when you want to do a tight 90 with it it often wants to kink even with a good tube bender.

I have my old faithful SnapOn flair tool that I have had for probably 47 years and a couple more plus the spendy Eastwood one that does real nice flares and the only way I can justify it is that I have a lot of projects that need brake lines to use it on.

A couple of things not mentioned no matter what kind of tubing you pick. Get a quality tube cutter and keep a sharp cutting blade in it. Dull cutters dent the tube as much as they cut it. Also get a deburring tool for tubing . Burrs or rough edges on the end of the tube make for less than stellar flares.

[lv2tri2]

Good advice, thanks

[FAKKY]

DSRAVEN --- what about straightening the COIL out for straight lines

[dsraven]

http://www.kwixuk.com/

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ha...ighteners.html

https://www.amazon.ca/Metal-Tube-Str...glnk-ca-c48-20

http://brakequip.com/products/tools/...-straightener/

https://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums...ad.php?t=10299
scroll down to the picson this one

or these home made ones

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...549153/page-12

http://www.homemadetools.net/homemad...e-straightener

or, grab a short length of 2x4 and drill a hole though that is slightly larger than the tube. just enough so your tube will fit through. clamp that in the vice. unroll the tube on the floor like rolling a tire. start by unrolling the very first part, then step on that piece, then unroll the rest like rolling the tire while continuing to step on the unrolled part as you move forward. this gets it pretty straight. you can place a weight on the first part if you have something that will work without damage. then you can use a long piece of 2x4 to roll over that sorta straight length before running it through the 2x4 in the vice. a buddy who can assist with holding the long length would also be an asset.

[68blackbird]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Best advice you can get right there.

Outside of redoing a stone stock restoration I don't see how one could get prebent lines to work without some tweaking before you are done.

I did brakes for a living for a number of years and often had to form new lines to replace damaged ones and in the process accumulated a drawer full of tube benders and I have not found any that are perfect yet.

For the do it yourself guy who doesn't bend brake or fuel lines on a continuing basis I'd say the nicopp is a real viable option. You can do a better job than with some options. True you want to add a few more clamps to support it but that isn't a big deal

That green coated stuff they sell at O'Reillys and other parts houses now is a bad joke for the most part. I have a terrible time getting good bends in it. It's ok for a mild zig or zag but when you want to do a tight 90 with it it often wants to kink even with a good tube bender.

I have my old faithful SnapOn flair tool that I have had for probably 47 years and a couple more plus the spendy Eastwood one that does real nice flares and the only way I can justify it is that I have a lot of projects that need brake lines to use it on.

A couple of things not mentioned no matter what kind of tubing you pick. Get a quality tube cutter and keep a sharp cutting blade in it. Dull cutters dent the tube as much as they cut it. Also get a deburring tool for tubing . Burrs or rough edges on the end of the tube make for less than stellar flares.

Can't agree more to all of this after doing my 1st brake lines with NiCopp line. I had to redo a few lines to get it right, but feel pretty good about doing any future jobs myself. Seemed a bit over my head at first, be patient and persistent, you can do it. My only tip would be go easy on the flaring, not a lot of pressure needed when tightening, same for when you after your lines are done and are installing, Kel

[jeffs56]

Wow thanks guys. Seems pretty intense to bend and flare some lines. I don’t have any of the tools either and this might be my only time doing brake lines. I’ll price some stuff out compared to the kits. I might be able to just buy the front kit and rear kit and make the ones I need that’s going to go to the booster. Trying to learn all this. Sorry about that

[68blackbird]

Originally Posted by jeffs56

Wow thanks guys. Seems pretty intense to bend and flare some lines. I don’t have any of the tools either and this might be my only time doing brake lines. I’ll price some stuff out compared to the kits. I might be able to just buy the front kit and rear kit and make the ones I need that’s going to go to the booster. Trying to learn all this. Sorry about that

FWIW...this is what I used, went well for me, Kel

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1