In Lieu of the Hood Brace Pads?

[A1971Blazer]

My 67 hood is oil canned in one place on the driver side, an area about the size of a football. Otherwise it is straight and in great condition.
I thought about this piece from LMC..it looks like it has a couple of braces that might go right where I need them? Anyone used one....?

[Rich72C10]

It it wasn't for the gun that I would likely never use again, I'd get that 3M NVH Dampening Material product. That seems to be the real deal.

As for insulation kit - I'd be afraid it would make the engine bay hotter.

[sick472]

To solve your problem of the pads falling out...consider putting the pads in and using the urethane to glue the pads to the braces, but not to the hood sheet metal. This way the hood skin and braces can shrink and contract at different rates and not be locked together. I would put in continuous beads between the braces and the pads, but not necessary, smaller globs or stitches would work well IMO.

Side Note: I mentioned earlier that the hood measured 71-1/2" wide at the back bottom...that was too wide when it came time to install it (painted of course, doh!). I compared it to another hood and it was 71-1/4" wide. I guess my hood had been flattened out at some point. There was no way to get the doors, cowl, fenders and hood to shim out properly at that width and I had to to get creative. I made two small "L" brackets that attached with the rear upper hinge bolts (one on each side) and used a piece of all-thread between them and tightened it until the hood was 71-1/4 wide. I left this apparatus in place as I did not want to over crank it and try to re-curve the hood for fear it would "snap" somewhere. Just another jury-rig that had to be done, but it worked really well. Down side is that you have to loosen the all-thread in order to adjust the hinges each time you need to move the hood to hinge alignment while trying to get the whole works to line -up well.

[Rich72C10]

I went with that 2 part 3M product and a gun. At least I got 10% off of the 3M Dampening Material after a searching google for a coupon. If anything, I'll give the gun to my brother for his shop.

Hopefully this stuff will also solve or at least lessen the hood jiggle - it's like a big bowl of jello LOL

[Grumpy old man]

The only C-10 build videos you need .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7TxGtVlG8s

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Spray foam insulation will hold moisture . Lay a clean bead of windshield urethane between the hood and braces let it set up over night and your done, it will also sound better when you close the hood .

I used some cut and trimmed horse stall mat held in by stainless wire ties. Been there 15 years now.

When the engine is thumping I can see my hood go a bumpin!

[89AKurt]

I know the thing being talked about is padding, but since the later trucks have a cross brace added, you kinda need to do that. My cheapskate solution is this, seems to work except where there is no padding on the existing braces. So I'm subscribed......

[Richard]

I use the original type foam padding. Weather strip adhesive is used to secure padding on the hood braces only. Purchased two pad brace kits so I had extra. The foam can be glued together and shaped to fill gaps that are loose. Will also be using a full hood pad.

[Rich72C10]

well, now I am cooking with crisco!

[70STOVEBOLT]

Someone mentioned in the “cheap tricks” thread that they used garage door seal

[Rich72C10]

This 3M setup was anything but cheap but darn easy to use. But I couldn't even tell you how many times I kept stuffing those pads back into place. Heck, I still stare at the passenger's ramhorn where one feel off and melted on top of it (pisses me off). That more or less tells me they weren't doing much for what they were intended for.

I bought two bottles and the middle braces I put a solid line from top to bottom. I removed all the other pads and put this 3M stuff in its place.

I'd say 80~90% of jello jiggling is gone. Only from the center line out a few inches does it still jiggle. Which would make sense, since there isn't anything really to stabilize that area. I'd image that would take the additional braces in between the originals to solve that.

Very happy with the 3M product. Anyone in the Austin area decides to do this, please hit me up to borrow the caulk gun, otherwise this thing would never be used again. If I was a dodgy (or my Dad), I'd just return it and say it didn't work or something LOL

@Grumpy, thank you for posting about it.

[fun in dirt]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

Someone mentioned in the “cheap tricks” thread that they used garage door seal

Yep that was me ... worked & lasted in my Blazer for 14 years & using the same on K20 build now. Can also put a little dob of gorilla snot (technically named weatherstrip adhesive) in spots if it tries to wiggle out over time on ends where brace is not as tight.

[D.B]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

This 3M setup was anything but cheap but darn easy to use. But I couldn't even tell you how many times I kept stuffing those pads back into place. Heck, I still stare at the passenger's ramhorn where one feel off and melted on top of it (pisses me off). That more or less tells me they weren't doing much for what they were intended for.

I bought two bottles and the middle braces I put a solid line from top to bottom. I removed all the other pads and put this 3M stuff in its place.

I'd say 80~90% of jello jiggling is gone. Only from the center line out a few inches does it still jiggle. Which would make sense, since there isn't anything really to stabilize that area. I'd image that would take the additional braces in between the originals to solve that.

Very happy with the 3M product. Anyone in the Austin area decides to do this, please hit me up to borrow the caulk gun, otherwise this thing would never be used again. If I was a dodgy (or my Dad), I'd just return it and say it didn't work or something LOL

@Grumpy, thank you for posting about it.

Hi Richard, can you post a few pictures of your hood brace foam fix. I would like to see how this held up after having engine heat applied to it over time. Thanks

[Rich72C10]

Hey D.B,

Here are a few photos for you. I am very happy with this stuff.

[D.B]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Hey D.B,

Here are a few photos for you. I am very happy with this stuff.

Thank you Richard for posting these pics. I will be doing this same thing to mine.

[Rich72C10]

Not a problem at all, I am very happy to help :-)

[dagnabbitt]

That gun will come in handy for any 3m product, I bought one for panel bond. I am going to try this out on my hood, thanks for the posts.

[Rich72C10]

I gave the gun to my brother for his shop, he was pretty excited I gave it to him. He better not lose it when I need it again (in like 5 years) LOL

[Jason Banks]

I recently used the 3m 04274 on a 1968 hood.

I hung the hood using hooks and 2 pieces of conduit. I felt like that left the hood in a fairly natural state.

I haven't started block sanding the other side yet, so I'll report back how it did. The last one I did was an aftermarket hood and it took a couple applications of featherfill G2 to get all the lows out.

[D.B]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Not a problem at all, I am very happy to help :-)

Richard, I did get the 3M NVH material installed this past weekend. It was super easy to work with. Thanks for suggesting it.

[Rich72C10]

that is great to hear DB - this 3M stuff has worked great and have had no ill effects!