Lowered AD: Fender Braces and Rolling Fenders?

[steve aleve]

This question is for everyone who is lowering an AD whether it is on the stock frame or an S10 (probably static or bagged). My question is, how many of you are keeping the front fender brace that connects to the core support? Do your wheels run into it? Mine is static and I will probably need to roll the fenders to pick up a bit more turning ability.

How many of you are rolling the fenders? If the fender brace stays, is there any way to roll that portion of the fender?

Thoughts and ideas?

[PDW HOTRODS]

I have kept all braces on each of my trucks. I have M2 front on the one I am working on now. I have used Nova subframe, and 78 Malibu, and standard offset wheels and never had a problem. How low are you going? My running boards were about 5 inch off the ground.

[b-mac]

My donor was (is) such a piece of crap that it didn't have them. Or was in the pile of parts, and I didn't know what they were.

Do you have a pic?

[mr48chev]

How big of wheels and tires are you running to need to roll the fenders with an S-10 chassis? Most tires even bigger ones are a bit lost in the space without spacers on the hubs.

[b-mac]

Hey, look at that!...

[joedoh]

you probably cant roll them smoothly. the metal is so thick and the rolled edge is so strong, it will look like a crinkle cut fry if you tried.

I had a 47 GMC on an s10 chassis with 215/75/15 on 8" wheels that was so low the front bumper would scrape on the crown of the road and it didnt need rolled.

IMG_0674 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0675 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

Those are I think the only pictures I have of that setup, I raised it up and put on different wheels because it was just too low, but man it looked good like that.


edit: I found two videos of the truck on the highway, in case someone thinks it didnt drive like that. click to play!

IMG_4810 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_4809 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


it did rub in one spot, where a fence post had bent the fender, and getting that area straight required two sledgehammers, on on the back side as a dolly and one on the front side swung with abandon. those fender edges are STRONG.

Originally Posted by b-mac

Hey, look at that!...

thats the rear fender brace, he is I think talking about the large metal hoop that comes off the core support inside the fender. I keep both on all my builds.

[whitedog76]

I’m assuming, you’re talking about the one that is up in the fender, behind the headlight.

It’s up so high in the fender, I wouldn’t think it would ever be in the way.

On another note, it just attaches with 2 bolts on the fender lip. That area is usually rusted out on these trucks anyway. Probably not a big deal if it’s gone.

[steve aleve]

The running boards are about 4.5” off the ground. The rims are 15” Steelies with 225 75 15 bfg’s. I have 2” blocks that push them out to fill the fenders pretty nicely. I had a set of beat up fenders on it before and I flattened the lip and front brace flange to let the wheels turn. It almost went lock to lock. I recently swapped the fenders for a better set and I don’t want to mess them up because they are pretty straight. I have been using the back brackets and would also like to use the front one too if possible just to keep things from jiggling and bouncing around. I did get a set of ridler 695’s recently and am waiting on tires so maybe once I am ready to swap I can see if I can have them sit a bit farther in to help get some clearance. Thanks for all of the info!!

[whitedog76]

Joedoh, Off the subjuect, but are those U.S. wheel or MobSteel?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by steve aleve

The running boards are about 4.5” off the ground. The rims are 15” Steelies with 225 75 15 bfg’s. I have 2” blocks that push them out to fill the fenders pretty nicely.

your tires are only 1/2 inch larger than mine overall, which would be a 1/4 inch closer to the inner brace, but my truck was a good 1.5 inches lower at the running boards (3" ~4 fingers off the ground) and my fender braces were stock/unmodified. is your wheel further forward than center in the wheelarch? thats the only way I can figure the tire would hit it.

if you are using 2" spacers and the wheels hit the fenders when turning, the simple answer is to go to smaller spacers.

whitedog the wheels were just plain old cragar steelies. the cap is a 95-97 S10 cap.

[steve aleve]

Originally Posted by joedoh

your tires are only 1/2 inch larger than mine overall, which would be a 1/4 inch closer to the inner brace, but my truck was a good 1.5 inches lower at the running boards (3" ~4 fingers off the ground) and my fender braces were stock/unmodified. is your wheel further forward than center in the wheelarch? thats the only way I can figure the tire would hit it.

if you are using 2" spacers and the wheels hit the fenders when turning, the simple answer is to go to smaller spacers.

whitedog the wheels were just plain old cragar steelies. the cap is a 95-97 S10 cap.

I will have to try to post a pic if I can. How is everyone posting pics since the photo host page removed everyones pictures?

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by steve aleve

I will have to try to post a pic if I can. How is everyone posting pics since the photo host page removed everyones pictures?

Hit "go advanced " then Click on the paperclip to the right of the smiley face at the top of the reply to thread page and that opens up the attach this that or another link.

Then Choose file. upload the files and then it will tell you to close the window.

[steve aleve]

Here are a few pics of the truck as it sits.

[steve aleve]

thanks mr48!!

[steve aleve]

And so everyone knows, I do know that my rear axle is about 1.5 - 2" too far back and I am planning on relocating it!

[joedoh]

looks like you are cambered out. if its an s10 front end go pick up two packs of camber shims, they come with 2 ea of every size, back off the upper control arm nuts and DONT LOSE ANY OF THE SHIMS THAT ARE THERE OR REARRANGE THEM, and put 1ea of every size on each bolt. that will probably fix your camber problem, it does not change toe as long as you use the same number of shims on each bolt and on both sides.

[whitedog76]

I’m jealous of you guys. How can rusty trucks look so good?

[steve aleve]

Thanks joedoh, I will definitely look at doing this. Also, I don't think I need to worry about the existing shims because the front of the frame had been messed with before I bought it and there were no shims there! ha ha!!!

Probably something I need to take care of as well. Does that mean that i need an alignment? I do know that the tires haven't been wearing weird and the truck cruises straight but probably still something to take care of.

Also thanks whitedog for the compliment!

[joedoh]

oof, yes, you definitely need an alignment.

on the bright side, setting the correct caster and toe with an alignment will make the truck ride, turn, and even stop better. I would recommend you ask for -2 to -3 degrees camber and that will probably cure your rubbing completely.

in lieu of getting it aligned, just getting the camber shims will help your turning. they are in the help section at oreilys, like 7 bucks a pack.