For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

[swamp rat]

I bet the wife just loved that mess huh? I can appreciate getting beyond that stage with my front and rear end, the tranny, transfer case and frame under the cab remain filthy for now. You have concrete, i have asphalt, i still have stains i cant get out.

[litew8]

More info on previous topic:

"Main caps.. Chevy 350.. Has 5 caps that holds the crank shaft into block.. Each cap has a bearing.

A 2 bolt block, all 5 caps has 2 bolts per cap bolting it to block

1 4 bolt block, the front and rear caps are still 2 bolts per cap.. The 3 center caps has 4 bolts per cap holding them to block.

Now yes, the 4 bolts in the center caps are stronger, but a few things the other people forgot (or didnt know) to tell you is..

Theres very little room on each side of main web for that extra bolt.. By drilling and tapping that second hole on each side, you now have a weaker main web, and oil pan rail.. The crank aint gonna go anywhere but those outter bolt holes may crack..

Next, the weakest part of the main cap setup is still there and now has less surface aera.. The cap it's self.. 4 bolt and 2 bolt caps (unless you have one of GM's stock 67-71 375 HP engines) are made from the same gray iron."

[Jahloha]

UPDATE:

Finished the engine tear down tonight, down to the bear block. Although I probably could have tore it down faster, I felt it necessary to take my time and learn how each piece worked with the engine as a whole.

I am very happy with the condition of the heads, pistons, cylinders, etc; all seem to be in great shape. No visible wear line in the cylinders, or or even wear on pistons. I am excited to take these pieces to the machine shop for review and input on where I should go with the rebuild.

This is a big mile stone to be able to get the engine ready for the machinist, so I am happy with my progress.

Organized Pieces:


Pistons In Cylinders:


Cylinder Heads:



I did find some casting numbers inside the heads. Does anyone know what these would mean or a location I can research them?

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I bet the wife just loved that mess huh? I can appreciate getting beyond that stage with my front and rear end, the tranny, transfer case and frame under the cab remain filthy for now. You have concrete, i have asphalt, i still have stains i cant get out.

Haha, tell me about it; my wife is a SAINT! My saving grace is that she loves Gramps just as much as I do and wants to see the truck restored and surprising him asap as well.

I also have come to grips that my garage floor will never be the same haha. But heck, its a garage, its supposed to be worked in!

Originally Posted by litew8

More info on previous topic:

"Main caps.. Chevy 350.. Has 5 caps that holds the crank shaft into block.. Each cap has a bearing.

A 2 bolt block, all 5 caps has 2 bolts per cap bolting it to block

1 4 bolt block, the front and rear caps are still 2 bolts per cap.. The 3 center caps has 4 bolts per cap holding them to block.

Now yes, the 4 bolts in the center caps are stronger, but a few things the other people forgot (or didnt know) to tell you is..

Theres very little room on each side of main web for that extra bolt.. By drilling and tapping that second hole on each side, you now have a weaker main web, and oil pan rail.. The crank aint gonna go anywhere but those outter bolt holes may crack..

Next, the weakest part of the main cap setup is still there and now has less surface aera.. The cap it's self.. 4 bolt and 2 bolt caps (unless you have one of GM's stock 67-71 375 HP engines) are made from the same gray iron."

Lite:

Thanks for the follow up. I was doing some reading after the original posts and found similar information as you just mentioned. Thanks again!

[swamp rat]

I was pretty tired last time i posted but looking at your pic's something came to mind, if they were not already you should have steel stamped the piston rods and end caps #1 thru #8, if you still have them in order it might be a good idea to do it, you do not want to mix up the bearing end caps on the rods. plus if you reuse them its good practice to keep them in the same order.

Normally if i tear down an engine i organize and keep track of every part so i know what rocker push rod and lifter went where, i don't mix them up until i decide what is getting replaced, every part can tell a story when it comes to wear.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I was pretty tired last time i posted but looking at your pic's something came to mind, if they were not already you should have steel stamped the piston rods and end caps #1 thru #8, if you still have them in order it might be a good idea to do it, you do not want to mix up the bearing end caps on the rods. plus if you reuse them its good practice to keep them in the same order.

Normally if i tear down an engine i organize and keep track of every part so i know what rocker push rod and lifter went where, i don't mix them up until i decide what is getting replaced, every part can tell a story when it comes to wear.

SR:

Yeah haha. I luckily I thought about that prior to tear down, although I didnt stamp them, I have them numbered using tape. I will be buying new rods, so I tossed those. And the bearing, I made sure to bolt them in the same direction they were sitting, prior to removing each piston.

I hope I covered my bases!

I appreciate your pointers, I definitely am in "absorb everything" mode lol

[litew8]

Looking at the valves, can you tell how it used to run...
It doesn't look as if you removed the springs, so you haven't taken a peak at valve seats. How do the valves appear to be sitting? Flush, equal among all?

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by litew8

Looking at the valves, can you tell how it used to run...
It doesn't look as if you removed the springs, so you haven't taken a peak at valve seats. How do the valves appear to be sitting? Flush, equal among all?

Lite:

Not sure what you mean about the valves showing the way it was driven? I am definitely a newb to being able to visually diagnose the condition. Tell me what you mean.

Also, should I remove the springs prior to taking the heads to the machinist?

Another thought...do people usually reuse the crank in a rebuild? I figured the cam would be bought new, but what about the crank?

[mcbassin]

Nice work on the tear down. The engine looks good. In a pinch you can take a center punch and make dots on the main caps and rod caps. Just make a punch mark for 1-8.
I had some extra number stamps I could have sent you if I would have thought about it.
Good luck at the machine shop.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice work on the tear down. The engine looks good. In a pinch you can take a center punch and make dots on the main caps and rod caps. Just make a punch mark for 1-8.
I had some extra number stamps I could have sent you if I would have thought about it.
Good luck at the machine shop.

So it sounds like I should stamp them, prior to taking them to the machine shop. Where should I stamp them? Do I stamp the metal sleeves (top and bottom ones) that are between the connecting rods and crank?

[litew8]

I'm not an expert, you can sometimes see tell tale signs of how an engine ran, good or if it had issues, by the type of discoloration of the top of the valves. Notice one the difference in color? When you take a valve out, you're able to see the seat. Check for damage, excessive wear etc... if you have damage, or wear - they'll need redone. Before taking the springs off, you can check to see if all valves are sitting even with one another by placing a straight edge (straight piece of metal, long enough to ride the length of the head) along the valve ends. If you notice some that are excessive in not being even with the rest, extra work may need done. Your machines will know what all to look for, just giving you something to do.

Yes, the crank can be reused if in good shape (I reused mine) - but only if it'll match whatever build you are after. I don't think we punched our parts, just used a marker - place them in a box in order. You're machinist should know to keep the order when done.

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

So it sounds like I should stamp them, prior to taking them to the machine shop. Where should I stamp them? Do I stamp the metal sleeves (top and bottom ones) that are between the connecting rods and crank?

I would definetly stamp all your pieces before you take it to the machine shop.
I stamp the rod and caps like this:

I found this of main some main caps

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

I would definetly stamp all your pieces before you take it to the machine shop.
I stamp the rod and caps like this:

I found this of main some main caps

Would numbering the main caps start with 1 at the front of the engine then work back to 5? Like cylinders move front to back.

[litew8]

Whatever makes sense for you should work.

[mjensen]

I'll follow along! Looking good so far!

[Jahloha]

UPDATE:

This past week the cold has dropped onto Utah with no regret. Went from 40s to single digits overnight. I dont believe I will ever get used to winters, but needless to say, for a few nights I was shoveling and just trying to get accustomed. But I know I have to keep plugging, so I made a goal to get the front coils and control arms off.

I am happy to report that this can now be checked off. I read a lot of threads in preparation for this step. My biggest concern was the coils, having never removed one in my life, let alone with just the jack stand; but it worked just fine.

Conditions I Am Working In (I have a space heater, but one day, I hope to have a fully heated shop/3rd car garage)


Before


Dus Cap Removal


Drum Guts


Removing Hub Bolts (not keeping drums)

[Jahloha]

Update Continued...

Getting Tie Rod Out


Loosening Lower Control Arm Nut


Forgot to Remove Shock Prior To Lowering Control Arm...DOH!


Both Sides Out

[Jahloha]

QUESTION:

Found this stamping on the driver's side on the frame...I will research its significance; but until then, please give me a shout if you know its purpose/meaning.

Edit: DUH! It is the partial VIN, my bad for the unneeded question.

[swamp rat]

The good news is your working in a garage, you can go buy a couple large space heaters and turn them on when drinking your morning coffee to take the bite out of the air before you start .. I'm about ready to think about a 25 gal propane tank and a large industrial forced air propane heater and point it under the truck. LOL!

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FY17fgodhF8Abw

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

The good news is your working in a garage, you can go buy a couple large space heaters and turn them on when drinking your morning coffee to take the bite out of the air before you start .. I'm about ready to think about a 25 gal propane tank and a large industrial forced air propane heater and point it under the truck. LOL!

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FY17fgodhF8Abw

That looks awesome! Haha, I am working with something like this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sunbeam-El...1-115/21668956 The heat can be felt for about 2 feet then its obsolete haha.

[Mustard72]

My insulated coveralls are my best friend (friends?) in the winter. I've got a 120,000 BTU/Hr convection heater, but it really only takes the edge off on the really cold days and burns up LOTS of LP with no ceiling insulation. I tried putting sheet plastic up to try to prevent the hot air from going up into the attic, but it was pretty much a waste of time. I got to the point last winter where I got pretty accustomed to working in the cold. It's pretty cool how the body adjusts to the seasons. It does limit what you can do to your truck, though, as curing processes, etc. are really slowed down. You almost start wishing you had to torch more stuff apart

Getting the front end apart is somewhat straightforward, but make sure you have a good internal spring compresser to get it back together. I couldn't get my external compressor setup to work with how the springs go up into the recess, so I borrowed an internal one from a local fella.

Good job so far!

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by Mustard72

My insulated coveralls are my best friend (friends?) in the winter. I've got a 120,000 BTU/Hr convection heater, but it really only takes the edge off on the really cold days and burns up LOTS of LP with no ceiling insulation. I tried putting sheet plastic up to try to prevent the hot air from going up into the attic, but it was pretty much a waste of time. I got to the point last winter where I got pretty accustomed to working in the cold. It's pretty cool how the body adjusts to the seasons. It does limit what you can do to your truck, though, as curing processes, etc. are really slowed down. You almost start wishing you had to torch more stuff apart

Getting the front end apart is somewhat straightforward, but make sure you have a good internal spring compresser to get it back together. I couldn't get my external compressor setup to work with how the springs go up into the recess, so I borrowed an internal one from a local fella.

Good job so far!

Thats good to know, I was just thinking about using some plastic if I bought a heater. Also, I need to get some insulated coveralls/pants or something ha. All I got is a long sleeve and some Dickies pants.

[Jahloha]

UPDATE:

Tonight was another simple step in the grand scheme of things, I removed the front cross member. This was a fairly simple job, had to unbolt 7 bolts/nuts on each side (four through the side of the frame and into the upper control arm & three bolts that run through the bottom of the frame and directly into the crossmember.

The last item to remove before I have a clear front end frame, is the steering components. I have to research a little to prepare myself to take the power steering apart confidently.

Dropped


Front View, Looking Sparce


My wife is amazing. She brought out her iPad and watch her shows, while I worked on the truck. Although she has no interest in getting dirty, she does enjoy learning what I am doing and also watching me work. Notice the white streaks in the picture, yup, its snowing. Luckily our space heater, her blanket, and bundled up kept her out with me for a good hour or so.


Mahalo,

[Jahloha]

Thoughts:

I have been thinking a lot about how I want to remain productive and moving through these crucial winter months. I can only imagine that the weather can be a downer for a lot of us on our projects. So I decided the best way for me to continue successfully, I have to make my project plan even more detailed.

I had originally thought about making goals for each month, but I can easily see myself losing focus with such large timelines and poor weather. So I think I am going to break my goals into week long ones. For example, this next week, I want to get the ps broke down, begin wire wheeling the front end frame, and also degrease all removed parts (control arms, cross member, etc).

It may seem overly simple, but I know if I dont write these goals down and give myself a specified time, this build wont be finish before Gramps possibly says the eternal goodbye.

Mahalo,

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Thoughts:

I have been thinking a lot about how I want to remain productive and moving through these crucial winter months. I can only imagine that the weather can be a downer for a lot of us on our projects. So I decided the best way for me to continue successfully, I have to make my project plan even more detailed.

I had originally thought about making goals for each month, but I can easily see myself losing focus with such large timelines and poor weather. So I think I am going to break my goals into week long ones. For example, this next week, I want to get the ps broke down, begin wire wheeling the front end frame, and also degrease all removed parts (control arms, cross member, etc).

It may seem overly simple, but I know if I dont write these goals down and give myself a specified time, this build wont be finish before Gramps possibly says the eternal goodbye.

Mahalo,

That's some great motivation! Your making great progress, better than me thats for sure.

One thing caught my eye unrelated to the build, that it appears you have some kind of an entry way above the truck, looking at the banister it goes up then comes forward to the garage door area.. That would also mean you have a really tall garage ceiling too?