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Old 03-02-2019, 03:46 PM   #51
89AKurt
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

When I pulled into the Harbor Freight parking lot today, the horn started blowing! Good to know it works, now I need to sort this out. I had cleaned the paint off the steering wheel, the back that the pin rubs against, and inside where the plate sits. Why would it just start working?

Relevant threads:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...orn+will+-stop
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...orn+will+-stop
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=707526

Next task, figure out why the headlights flickr.
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Old 03-02-2019, 04:04 PM   #52
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Looks like you need a new Horn Cap Retainer, p/n 60-06414, $5.00 from
www.truckandcarshop.com
They also have the Turn Signal Switch Cancelling Springs, p/n 67-06707, $3.00 a pair.
I replaced my '68's OEM ignition switch years ago. It now goes to ACC, but I'm not sure there's anything there. I remember having a hard time with the ignition sw on the '67 Sub. The bezel is different. I used a chisel and small ball pien hammer and gave light taps at each 120* notch until it came to finger tight and spun off. The 67's notches are smaller, so harder to grip.

I'm also having horn gripes. Currently doesn't work. The OEM '68 horn, I drilled out the rivets holding it together, cleaned out the interior, de-rusted the vibrator coil, re-assembled it with screws and nuts -- and it wotked again. Then I painted it satin black and it won't work. Most likely it's paint interfering with grounding.
Another part of the problem is the short, either in the column or under dash. Have inspected it all, but for under the Fuse Panel/Bulkhead Connector, and see no obvious faults. Tried 3 different Horn Relays, OEM, one fron '67 Sub, and a new one from Auto Zone. All bench test OK. But when energized stay on.
Right now horn button does not click relay. I put a piece of E-tape under the steel plate on the bottom of the T/S Sw. Maybe that is supposed to flow thru to ground?
I also got fancy and tried adding a second High A 440 hz, Bosch horn off a vintage Mercedes [where did I get that?] along with the stock Delco-Remy Mid C-note horn. Sounded like some angry Late-Fifties progressive jazz -- Monk on a rant, too cool -- but I can't get it to work out yet.
I don't think the 2 horns make so much current that the relay sticks On. Most V8s had dual horns without special horn relays. [Horn Relay Relay?]
I have pix, but I wanted to post a Horn Gripe on the Electrical subforum, where the Experts will see it, so I'll save pix for now.

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Old 03-02-2019, 04:49 PM   #53
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Thanks for another source! Didn't see that LMC has the rubber retainer (pg.61). I am missing the cancelling cam. But I do know the horn works, but is sure is wimpy. My dad put air horns on his Mercedes, was always messing with the leaking hoses or something.
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Old 03-02-2019, 05:12 PM   #54
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89AKurt View Post
Thanks for another source! Didn't see that LMC has the rubber retainer (pg.61). I am missing the cancelling cam. But I do know the horn works, but is sure is wimpy. My dad put air horns on his Mercedes, was always messing with the leaking hoses or something.
The Truck Shop has the cancelling cams too. P/n 67-06705 [w/o tilt], also the aftermarket unit needs a spring-loaded contact plunger p/n 67-06506.
...6705 =$10.00, 6506 = $5.00
The Factory cams have the horn contact and spring built in.
The more time spent on a nice day on the internet, the less time working on the truck.
See ya later.
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:07 PM   #55
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Thanks again for the help.

I always think of this song when I work on the truck:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHYIGy1dyd8
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:13 PM   #56
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

When I added missing bolts on the bumper, looked around. I see two bolts dangling that aren't holding anything, the fan shroud is missing. I have also found three grounding wires that aren't connected, is that a big deal?


Just discovered the C had fallen off. grrr


Need to learn what this engine is.



https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/r...sting-numbers/

Forum link:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=353542
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...on+small+block
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Last edited by 89AKurt; 03-02-2019 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 03-02-2019, 07:20 PM   #57
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Looks like a cousin to our 68 "Old blue"
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Old 03-02-2019, 09:01 PM   #58
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

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Looks like a cousin to our 68 "Old blue"
Nice! Mine came with the RV mirrors, was built in CA.

I'm following this thread about engine ID.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...39#post8478439

This is about the heads:
http://www.v8volvo.se/mekartips/iden...tifiering.html
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Old 03-02-2019, 10:52 PM   #59
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Quote:
Originally Posted by 89AKurt View Post
When I added missing bolts on the bumper, looked around. I see two bolts dangling that aren't holding anything, the fan shroud is missing. I have also found three grounding wires that aren't connected, is that a big deal?


Just discovered the C had fallen off. grrr


Need to learn what this engine is.



https://www.chevyhardcore.com/news/r...sting-numbers/

Forum link:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=353542
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...on+small+block
Some partial VIN numbers [So it's a car engine, as trucks had no VINs.]

T = Tonawanda, NY
04 = April
01 = First
CCC = 1971 307 V8 originally mated to a powerglide

Source: www.nastyz28.com

Yeah, connect your loose ground wires. I added extra ground straps from the block to the frame, and to the radiator wall, and from the block to the cab.
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Old 03-03-2019, 02:27 PM   #60
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Quote:
Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine View Post
Some partial VIN numbers [So it's a car engine, as trucks had no VINs.]

T = Tonawanda, NY
04 = April
01 = First
CCC = 1971 307 V8 originally mated to a powerglide

Source: www.nastyz28.com

Yeah, connect your loose ground wires. I added extra ground straps from the block to the frame, and to the radiator wall, and from the block to the cab.
Thank you for deciphering that! An April Fools engine. LOL Loose ground wires could explain the flickering headlights.
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Old 03-03-2019, 03:41 PM   #61
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Old blue was built in Tarrytown NY and had the west coast jr mirrors.
And a shorty...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 89AKurt View Post
Nice! Mine came with the RV mirrors, was built in CA.

I'm following this thread about engine ID.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...39#post8478439

This is about the heads:
http://www.v8volvo.se/mekartips/iden...tifiering.html
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Old 03-07-2019, 03:59 AM   #62
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Getting taillight trim!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...76#post8481176
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Old 03-07-2019, 10:09 PM   #63
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Figures, the battery pooped out yesterday. Truck has been running great since I test drove it. Since I had to put in a new one, fixed the rusted clamp with a perfect size of scrap steel.


Added an eyebolt so I could lock the mountain bike.


Since Lowes had this cheap tool box on sale, and it's smaller than normal, I couldn't resist. Some things I will buy new.


Think I'm the first person to take this off.


First look.



This is why:


Found the spring and retainer plate inside the door.


This is why I like working on this truck! I knew the die cast tabs would break if bent back, so I drilled four holes, and used the universal part called bailing wire. I saw the retainer plate should have been installed the other way to keep the spring off the shaft. I cut cork gasket because I had it, the rubber was shot.



I greased up the shaft and end before installing. Works like new!
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Old 03-08-2019, 11:22 PM   #64
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Today was like watching surgery, and just about as expensive. LOL

Took it to a mechanic who knows what he's doing. I wanted to get fluids checked, and get a basic post buy checkup. Knew the afternoon was going to be interesting when I heard "oh $#it" when the differential oil was drained.


The second "oh ..." was when he pulled this bolt out. He said I was lucky, getting the rest out was the easiest one he ever did.


Looking at the right bearing surface, still good.


Left half shaft was another story.


What was left of the spacers.


This part was still good. I was told these are highway gears.


I'm lucky this is still good.


New spacer bearing.


I have no idea what that tool is!


Checking the gear lash (correct term?).


Buttoning up just before 5:00 on a Friday.


I expected this sort of thing, but it's still like going to the dentist.
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Old 03-10-2019, 11:27 AM   #65
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Well, it is literally like pulling teeth.
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Old 03-10-2019, 01:55 PM   #66
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

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Well, it is literally like pulling teeth.
Glad you got the pun!

Yesterday I made things that didn't cost anything. Materials sourced from scrap piles, a neighbor, just some time. I discovered the front bumper was held on with only two bolts, so found two bolts in my stash plus had ordered two bumper bolts from LMC.

First up, getting a useable mirror on the passenger door. The previous owner got Pep Boys junk mirrors, he admitted the right side was a joke. I've read the mirror threads here, people complaining about the bad repo quality, and not made in the USA. So, I used my dada's WW2 vintage dogtag stamp set to add MADE IN USA. The "S" is trashed, so used the U twice. LOL


Used the best Crapsman materials available, Liquid Nail (left over from remodeling the house), and bailing wire. Cut down the plastic mirror base.


Put the scrap steel in the vice, and hammered the bends with a half jack sledge hammer. Ground the leading end into an aerodynamic shape. LOL Used Pep Boys screws in the same holes that were added previously. Mesquite wedge was also glued in, and aluminum duct tape is over the wound. Cut a cork gasket. I can easily remove this when I get "real" mirrors.


Neighbor installs cable TV around the state, gave me some grounding wires used for making up the boxes. Bolts found in stash.


I made a thingamajig to get the grounding strap onto the engine. Hope these help with the flickering headlights.


This is what I love about working on my truck, can get away with murder. It's not going to be a trailer queen!
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Old 03-10-2019, 05:18 PM   #67
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Now that you've cracked the pumpkin open, why not inquire about going Posi?
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Old 03-11-2019, 12:49 PM   #68
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

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Now that you've cracked the pumpkin open, why not inquire about going Posi?
I looked into getting Posi for the previous truck, cost and availability is an issue.

Doing easy and cheap stuff at the moment. Even though all the aluminum trim is trashed, front fender arch looks like it drove through a barbed wire fence, I started to polish with #0000 steel wool. Can anyone tell I did only the cab?


I also relocated the choke knob (no pics). Took a joy ride to a scenic setting for glamor shots.





My favorite shot:




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Old 03-11-2019, 01:01 PM   #69
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

Great background
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Old 03-11-2019, 01:07 PM   #70
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

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Great background
Thanks! I just posted in the Let's See Your Truck thread. It sort of bugs me to see everyone taking such boring pictures, in their garage, or on the street.
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Old 03-11-2019, 08:16 PM   #71
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

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Thanks! I just posted in the Let's See Your Truck thread. It sort of bugs me to see everyone taking such boring pictures, in their garage, or on the street.
Here's the old Orange Sunshine out at Reddington Pass...
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Old 03-11-2019, 08:32 PM   #72
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

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Here's the old Orange Sunshine out at Reddington Pass...
I don't remember that outcrop, but it's been decades. My dad was Park Ranger at Saguaro N.M. (now a Park), he would do hunting patrol up there, to make sure nobody was going into the park. The first time was in a Ford Bronco (first generation), aptly named vehicle especially since the seat latch mechanism was broken. The next year it was in the new Jeep CJ5, a much superior vehicle for the trail.
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Old 03-12-2019, 11:35 PM   #73
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

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I don't remember that outcrop, but it's been decades. My dad was Park Ranger at Saguaro N.M. (now a Park), he would do hunting patrol up there, to make sure nobody was going into the park. The first time was in a Ford Bronco (first generation), aptly named vehicle especially since the seat latch mechanism was broken. The next year it was in the new Jeep CJ5, a much superior vehicle for the trail.
It's a little deeper, East-bound on the Reddington road, in an area called Bellota Ranch.
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Old 03-13-2019, 02:24 PM   #74
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

I went beyond the top of the pass only once. The back side of the Rincons is really pretty as I recall.

Started a thread about wiring connectors, specifically for the back-up switch.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=783212

Also thinking about a mat to cover the rust holes in the floor. LOL
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=783171
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Old 03-14-2019, 07:39 PM   #75
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Re: I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

I was looking at the radiator today. It looks like the wrong one, it does sort of fit, but the clamps don't look right. It was loose, so I cut up a thick plastic lid to pad and make it tight. Screwdriver pointing to where it could have sprung a leak, moved the clamp over since there are 3 holes. Neighbor gave me a Ford plastic shroud, not sure if I should bother.

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