Good 4L60 rebuild kit?

[comicaltatertot]

I have a 2005 GMC Sierra. And it is coming time for a rebuild here within a few weeks. So I have been looking around to get some opinions for a good master rebuild kit. I am doing a cam swap next year, with headers, and tune. Hoping to have 300rwhp, 350-400rwtq. Just want to make sure my trans will be able to handle the mods I make to the motor (I know those are not super serious mods) I just don't want to have to rebuild the trans again. I have heard about Monster and PATC but I keep on reading bad things about them. If anyone has suggestions for a good place to get a master rebuild kit from I would appreciate it. Budget for the kit is $1200 with a torque converter also . I am having it built by a local trans shop that has done a very many 4L60s.

Thanks for the help.
Tate

[Bigdav160]

I've never bought a "kit". I go down to my local transmission parts supplier and tell them what I want. I typically do not do performance builds.

If you search Clinebarger post he probably has a parts list he uses for the 4L60e

[clinebarger]

How many miles are on the truck? If over 150,000 miles, I would recommend replacing the Planetaries. Or if your trans builder has equipment to rebuild them....Have that done.

Here is a parts list for a mild build.

Here is a kit I found, It has Raybestos GPZ 3-4 Frictions, Kolene steels, Pressure plate & Backing plate for setting up the 3-4 Clutch, The rest of the kit is stock replacement but very complete..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROCARE-LEVE...item27d29bb730 (I have never bought from them! Nor do I buy "Kits", But looks good to me)

Sonnax Performance Pack Shift kit, Amazon.com: Sonnax Performance Pack: Automotive Comes with a .490" boost valve, Primer spring, Pinless Accumulators, TCC PWM valve, Servo release valve, Plate mod parts, Torlon check balls, I have used Trans Go shift kits for years, But recently started using Sonnax on 4L60E's.....I love it!

Trans Go 46-PLT-96 Separator plate, http://www.ebay.com/itm/TransGo-46-P...-/191398151242, These plates get worn in 60,000 miles, The Torlon Check balls will cut wear down a lot.

Sonnax Smart Shell, Very Strong & takes the load off the captured bearing in the reaction planet. Amazon.com: Sonnax Smart Shell Reaction Shell:...
Sonnax wide sun-gear bushing, Amazon.com: Sonnax 77010-01 700R4 WIDE SUN GEAR...
Borg Warner 29 element forward sprag, Double cage vs a single on the OEM SKF sprag Amazon.com: 700R4 4L60E 4L65E Input Forward...
2nd Servo piston, Highly debated issue! I like the "159" TrailBlazer SS 2nd piston. Sonnax has instructions in their shift kit for Plate holes sizes to match the piston....Whether you run a stock "553", "093" Vette, or the "159", The plate needs to match. More info....http://www.sonnax.com/articles/132-A...for-the-4L60-E

Of course, A good transmission isn't the sum of its parts, It needs to be built right!

[comicaltatertot]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

How many miles are on the truck? If over 150,000 miles, I would recommend replacing the Planetaries. Or if your trans builder has equipment to rebuild them....Have that done.

Here is a parts list for a mild build.

Here is a kit I found, It has Raybestos GPZ 3-4 Frictions, Kolene steels, Pressure plate & Backing plate for setting up the 3-4 Clutch, The rest of the kit is stock replacement but very complete..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/PROCARE-LEVE...item27d29bb730 (I have never bought from them! Nor do I buy "Kits", But looks good to me)

Sonnax Performance Pack Shift kit, Amazon.com: Sonnax Performance Pack: Automotive Comes with a .490" boost valve, Primer spring, Pinless Accumulators, TCC PWM valve, Servo release valve, Plate mod parts, Torlon check balls, I have used Trans Go shift kits for years, But recently started using Sonnax on 4L60E's.....I love it!

Trans Go 46-PLT-96 Separator plate, http://www.ebay.com/itm/TransGo-46-P...-/191398151242, These plates get worn in 60,000 miles, The Torlon Check balls will cut wear down a lot.

Sonnax Smart Shell, Very Strong & takes the load off the captured bearing in the reaction planet. Amazon.com: Sonnax Smart Shell Reaction Shell: Automotive

Sonnax wide sun-gear bushing, Amazon.com: Sonnax 77010-01 700R4 WIDE SUN GEAR BUSHING: Automotive

Borg Warner 29 element forward sprag, Double cage vs a single on the OEM SKF sprag Amazon.com: 700R4 4L60E 4L65E Input Forward Sprag: Automotive

2nd Servo piston, Highly debated issue! I like the "159" TrailBlazer SS 2nd piston. Sonnax has instructions in their shift kit for Plate holes sizes to match the piston....Whether you run a stock "553", "093" Vette, or the "159", The plate needs to match. More info....http://www.sonnax.com/articles/132-A...for-the-4L60-E

Of course, A good transmission isn't the sum of its parts, It needs to be built right!

My truck is close enough to 150K miles its at 130K miles right now so I will definitely ask the guy about getting new planetaries. He also said something about getting "forged pistons" for it, honestly I don't really know what that means, I have seen a lot of molded pistons but none forged. Thanks for the input I really appreciate it I will get those things on order.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by comicaltatertot

My truck is close enough to 150K miles its at 130K miles right now so I will definitely ask the guy about getting new planetaries. He also said something about getting "forged pistons" for it, honestly I don't really know what that means, I have seen a lot of molded pistons but none forged. Thanks for the input I really appreciate it I will get those things on order.

Billet Forward Piston....I guess? http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2472

Not needed with your build, Stock Molded Steel Pistons are fine.

[Farokaku]

I rebuilt one for my truck about 4 months ago using a kit from Pro-Built Automatics


I bought a 93 core that was described as having no overdrive. Opening it up I found some of the nastiest smelling oil and a fractured sun shell. Ultimately, in addition to the kit, I also replaced the reverse/input drum, just in case. The kit includes a new OEM sunshell that is hardened and supposed to address the earlier failures. You'll hear conflicting opinions on that one.

Overall it wasn't too bad, but I did have to make a handful of tools. You'll need a spring compressor for the forward clutch pack down in the very bottom of the transmission, but that one is easy to do using a long bolt, a large washer to pull against the transmission case, and a U-shaped piece of steel to contact the spring carrier, but leave the center open so the snap ring can be removed. I ended up taking some scrap 3/4" steel rod, cut a large washer in half, and welded the halves onto either end of the rod so that the cut-ends contacted the spring carrier. The rod had a hole drilled through the center for the bolt to pass through.

Another tool you'll need is a spring compressor for the input drum. I got by using a piece of 3/4" angle iron that I filed to size so that it fit snugly into the snap ring groove. I then drilled and tapped two 1/4-20 holes that lined up with the ring of the spring carrier. I was able to walk the bolts down to compress the springs enough to remove the snap ring. However, the snap ring was a bear to remove and still required some finesse. When I put it back together, I had much stiffer springs to install (part of the shift kit)... let's just say I kept my face clear of that assembly.

The only other tools you'll need are bushing drivers. The bushings can be driven out using a chisel point punch which will destroy them, but you'll need a proper driver to drive them in. Care must be taken as some of these are very soft and easy to damage. I ended up taking some 2.5" round aluminum bar stock and machined it as needed for each set of bushings. Fortunately I've got a small table-top lathe that could do the job. I certainly wouldn't try to do this with some sockets.

Otherwise, as Durallymax said, it's all about patience and keeping your work clean. You should count on having to order different thickness steels to get some of the clutch packs shimmed correctly, fortunately I got lucky. I do have one pack that is .010" looser than what Pro-built advised in their instructions, but it was well within factory spec and I'm not drag racing or making shifts with the torque management disabled.

I also replaced the torque converter with a new unit, I didn't want to risk debris from the old one killing my work. I replaced all of the solenoids, except the pressure control solenoid. The pressure control solenoid was supposed to be pretty reliable (and pricey), but I got unlucky and had to drop the pan to change it for a new one. Lesson learned: Do it right the first time! This is no different than an engine... don't cut corners unless you're ready to do it all over again. I would have rather spent that $100 up front rather than spend time checking transmission pressures and dropping the pan. I also risked burning up the 3-4 clutch because the line pressure was too low. I got lucky!

All said and done, I wrapped up about $1200 in my complete 4l60e rebuild kit , bellhousing to tailshaft. Bear in mind that in my application the engine makes about 400 ft-lbs so I felt it was too risky to get away with a stock rebuild, hence the added cost of the Pro-built kit. If I needed a rebuilt transmission for a stock truck, I'd likely let someone else do it for me. In this case, however, I was looking for the challenge and didn't want to pay $2000+ for a comparable unit from a reputable builder.

[Chevyrestorerman]

What shift kit did you use ?

As far as the pressure control solenoid, this part can be tested to ensure its Ok prior to reinstalling it into the the VB. Also, testing of the two shift solenoids, TCC solenoid can be tested before reinstalling them into the VB. Measure the shift solenoids with a ohm meter. YOUTube is my friend.