Cummins swap help

[84 Beast]

I am at the start of a Cummins swap into a K30 and needed some help.

I have a complete 24valve out of a 99 including ECM, PCU, and fuse panel. I wanted to get it installed as is, but by the sound of it, it may be complex and more than I bargain for, given I don't really know what I am doing.

Can I get the engine installed as is and have someone reprogram ecm to account for missing connections?

Is there a company out there that makes a wiring harness to account for this?

One solution is to go to p-pump conversion, just gets really pricy .... $3k. (just trying to use as daily and occasional tow.)

Don't want to have to see ol' craig to fund the swap.

[COS399]

Welcome to the site. What transmission are you going to be installing? I did a similar swap on my 1989 square. Link is in my signature block.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice project you have going on. Luckily for you you have a Dodge engine. From the other thread you were posting in, I thought you had an Industrial engine. I'll dig up the wiring info you need to get the engine running. Here is a link to some wiring info. Post #3 shows the ecm wires you need to hook up to get the engine to run stand alone. If you don't have the OBII connector and wiring from the dodge dash loom, you'll want to get one and add it in. That way you can check codes, and load a tuner/programmer if you would like to.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ad.php?t=96752

Yes, you can get the engine set in the truck, hook up the wires needed to run the engine, and terminate the un needed wires. Your ECM incorporates the body harness wires and engine harness into one plug. As long as you leave the engine harness in tact, there shouldn't be any issues and that is a pre emission engine unless it has egr, so you should be fine there as well.

I like P-pump 24v's, but I have grown to like the VP's too. I'd leave it VP unless you want to make 550hp or more. The big down fall to the P-pump swap is the lies. It doesn't seem to matter who bends them, they are prone to cracking. A set is $650 or more and you'll want to have a 2nd set if you plan to drive long distances. Not many people stock them and it'd be unlikely to get one if one cracked in the desert etc.

You can call these guys and see of they'll do your harness, but I'd honestly save the money and do it your self. Then you know what you have when you're done.

[84 Beast]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice project you have going on. Luckily for you you have a Dodge engine. From the other thread you were posting in, I thought you had an Industrial engine. I'll dig up the wiring info you need to get the engine running. Here is a link to some wiring info. Post #3 shows the ecm wires you need to hook up to get the engine to run stand alone. If you don't have the OBII connector and wiring from the dodge dash loom, you'll want to get one and add it in. That way you can check codes, and load a tuner/programmer if you would like to.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ad.php?t=96752

Yes, you can get the engine set in the truck, hook up the wires needed to run the engine, and terminate the un needed wires. Your ECM incorporates the body harness wires and engine harness into one plug. As long as you leave the engine harness in tact, there shouldn't be any issues and that is a pre emission engine unless it has egr, so you should be fine there as well.

I like P-pump 24v's, but I have grown to like the VP's too. I'd leave it VP unless you want to make 550hp or more. The big down fall to the P-pump swap is the lies. It doesn't seem to matter who bends them, they are prone to cracking. A set is $650 or more and you'll want to have a 2nd set if you plan to drive long distances. Not many people stock them and it'd be unlikely to get one if one cracked in the desert etc.

You can call these guys and see of they'll do your harness, but I'd honestly save the money and do it your self. Then you know what you have when you're done.

Thanks for the feedback. I want to do the conversion but when ready. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress.

[84 Beast]

Originally Posted by COS399

Welcome to the site. What transmission are you going to be installing? I did a similar swap on my 1989 square. Link is in my signature block.

I got a 47re.

[Dieselwrencher]

Another option for a controller for a 47re is the ant eater from fire punk. Cheaper than a PSC and works better. A friend of mine just put one on his qsb/47re swap in a 1500 dodge. He loves it.

[84 Beast]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Another option for a controller for a 47re is the ant eater from fire punk. Cheaper than a PSC and works better. A friend of mine just put one on his qsb/47re swap in a 1500 dodge. He loves it.

Thanks for the heads up and will check that out. Just finished asking if I would need a controller. Looks like that questions is answered....

Here's some pics just to keep the post going.

Need some help with wiring up the engine.

Looking to drop the engine in the next couple of weeks and work my way from there.

[84 Beast]

oops meant to throw this pic in.

Any recommendations on the lift pump. was thinking of using a FASS pump.

Any thoughts?

[COS399]

Here is some information on the wiring to wire in a relay to the VP44 pump to make it start up and run. On the rear of the engine, up near the valve cover, are two quick connect plugs. One has 11 wires and the other has 14 wires. These two plugs are the main wires that I used for my build. I did have to tap into the Injection Pump harness for a Throttle Position signal for my PCS transmission controller.

Purchase a 12 volt relay and the wiring pigtail that fits it.

Connect a fused (5amp) and switched 12V power source to the #1 pin (Green with black tracer) on the 11 pin connector. This is Ignition switch signal.

Connect a constant 12V supply to the #3 pin (Red with white tracer) on the 11 pin connector.

Connect the 87 terminal on the relay to the #7 pin (Red with Light Green) on the 11 pin connector.

Connect the 86 terminal on the relay to the #8 pin (Brown and white) on the 11 pin connector.

Connect the 85 terminal on the relay to negative/ground

Connect the 30 terminal on the relay to positive/12volt

After that, if you have the fuel hooked up and the starter hooked up you can just turn on your VP44 switch and then the jump the starter solenoid to fire it up. Turning off the VP44 switch (pin 1) will shut it off.

I tried to attach some PDF files that show all this but they were too large. PM me your e-mail address and I can try and send them to you direct. Hope this helps you and anyone else that has a 24 valve VP44 project.

[84 Beast]

Originally Posted by COS399

Here is some information on the wiring to wire in a relay to the VP44 pump to make it start up and run. On the rear of the engine, up near the valve cover, are two quick connect plugs. One has 11 wires and the other has 14 wires. These two plugs are the main wires that I used for my build. I did have to tap into the Injection Pump harness for a Throttle Position signal for my PCS transmission controller.

Purchase a 12 volt relay and the wiring pigtail that fits it.

Connect a fused (5amp) and switched 12V power source to the #1 pin (Green with black tracer) on the 11 pin connector. This is Ignition switch signal.

Connect a constant 12V supply to the #3 pin (Red with white tracer) on the 11 pin connector.

Connect the 87 terminal on the relay to the #7 pin (Red with Light Green) on the 11 pin connector.

Connect the 86 terminal on the relay to the #8 pin (Brown and white) on the 11 pin connector.

Connect the 85 terminal on the relay to negative/ground

Connect the 30 terminal on the relay to positive/12volt

After that, if you have the fuel hooked up and the starter hooked up you can just turn on your VP44 switch and then the jump the starter solenoid to fire it up. Turning off the VP44 switch (pin 1) will shut it off.

I tried to attach some PDF files that show all this but they were too large. PM me your e-mail address and I can try and send them to you direct. Hope this helps you and anyone else that has a 24 valve VP44 project.

much obliged and will get that email over.

[84 Beast]

Made some progress on dropping the engine, still got to get it securely fastened.

[burnin oil]

Definatly install a low fuel pressure light or gauge. Like DieselWrencher said the VP is a good setup for low HP but the achiles heal is the lift pump. Many Dodges got new injection pumps from the lift pump crapping out. The injection pump will still work but will eat itself in short order without the lift pump feeding it. Other than that you can't really go wrong. Decent power, reliable, and good mileage.

[84 Beast]

Originally Posted by COS399

Here is some information on the wiring to wire in a relay to the VP44 pump to make it start up and run. On the rear of the engine, up near the valve cover, are two quick connect plugs. One has 11 wires and the other has 14 wires. These two plugs are the main wires that I used for my build. I did have to tap into the Injection Pump harness for a Throttle Position signal for my PCS transmission controller.

Purchase a 12 volt relay and the wiring pigtail that fits it.

Connect a fused (5amp) and switched 12V power source to the #1 pin (Green with black tracer) on the 11 pin connector. This is Ignition switch signal.

Connect a constant 12V supply to the #3 pin (Red with white tracer) on the 11 pin connector.

Connect the 87 terminal on the relay to the #7 pin (Red with Light Green) on the 11 pin connector.

Connect the 86 terminal on the relay to the #8 pin (Brown and white) on the 11 pin connector.

Connect the 85 terminal on the relay to negative/ground

Connect the 30 terminal on the relay to positive/12volt

After that, if you have the fuel hooked up and the starter hooked up you can just turn on your VP44 switch and then the jump the starter solenoid to fire it up. Turning off the VP44 switch (pin 1) will shut it off.

I tried to attach some PDF files that show all this but they were too large. PM me your e-mail address and I can try and send them to you direct. Hope this helps you and anyone else that has a 24 valve VP44 project.

Needed some help on plumbing fuel. I purchased 150 gph FASS lift pump and was wondering if I should gut the OEM fuel filter and plumb straight to the injection pump? Also, there seems to be a return, does this get capped, returned to fuel cell, or T back into supply?

Thanks for the help

[Dieselwrencher]

Yes, get rid of the stock filter housing and plumb right to your injection pump. That Fass should have detailed instructions in it too. That return line will go to the tank in stock form. I can't remember on the Fass applications in a dodge, but on the airdog, that line isn't messed with. You add a return into the fuel fill tube and that is where the air dog return dumps into.

[84 Beast]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Yes, get rid of the stock filter housing and plumb right to your injection pump. That Fass should have detailed instructions in it too. That return line will go to the tank in stock form. I can't remember on the Fass applications in a dodge, but on the airdog, that line isn't messed with. You add a return into the fuel fill tube and that is where the air dog return dumps into.

thanks diesel wrencher

[Dieselwrencher]

If you run into any issues just ask. PM coming.

[84 Beast]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

If you run into any issues just ask. PM coming.

I am having trouble mounting the engine because the it sits about 2" too forward but am as far back on the chevy frame mounts. Its not leaving the space that I need for electric fans.

I bought the ebay kit, because I didn't know any better, but am using those mounts that attach to 1st gen motor mount, then into a drilled hole into the factory chevy frame mount.

Any help on what I am doing wrong would be appreciated.

See pics for details.

Also picked up a firebird, that why progress slowed.

[84 Beast]

This is probably a better angle of the passenger side. As you can see it is shifted as much to left (towards cab) as possible.

[Dieselwrencher]

Sweet firebird there man! Yeah, that is setting way far forward! Can you try to unbolt the original engine cross member mounts and slide it back to the next bolt hole and try it again to see how the engine sets in there? It's either that, or add on to those stock pieces to get your engine setting farther back IMO.

[COS399]

Nice Firebird. On my 89 swap, I remember that every time I would pull out the engine I would beat on the firewall with a BFH to clearance it even more. The engine mounts that i used had an offset and that moved it back some and I also used a 89-93 fan mount hub and clutch to create some room as well. Good luck with it and keep us informed.

[84 Beast]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Sweet firebird there man! Yeah, that is setting way far forward! Can you try to unbolt the original engine cross member mounts and slide it back to the next bolt hole and try it again to see how the engine sets in there? It's either that, or add on to those stock pieces to get your engine setting farther back IMO.

Thanks for the feedback and was thinking along the same lines as moving back the engine perches or having a buddy of mine fab up the motor mounts that are shifted so outside bolt sits inside the motor mount.

Will keep ya posted.

[84 Beast]

Originally Posted by COS399

Nice Firebird. On my 89 swap, I remember that every time I would pull out the engine I would beat on the firewall with a BFH to clearance it even more. The engine mounts that i used had an offset and that moved it back some and I also used a 89-93 fan mount hub and clutch to create some room as well. Good luck with it and keep us informed.

Ya, think I am going to have a buddy of mine fab up some offset mounts, think its the best way around it. was planning to using electric fans.

Want to work on the Firebird so bad, but trying to focus on the diesel swap then come back to the bird.