Question on starter wiring

[stellar]

The starter is ok the solenoid needs changed to one with 2 small posts instead of 1. Purple wire to the small post you have now. Should be marked S. When you get the sol with 2 small posts the yellow wire will go from the other small post on solenoid marked R to the coil.

[fixit-p]

If your starter solenoid only has 1 terminal it would be the "S" terminal so that would be for the purple wire. The yellow wire is needed on points type ignitions to provide full battery voltage while the engine is cranking for easier starts. With that solenoid you have 3 options (IMO) 1, convert to HEI. 2, install a remote starter solenoid (Ford style) that has an "R" terminal and 3, use a bosh type relay to actuate off of the purple wire and supply batt voltage to the yellow wire.

Edit>>Was typing while stellar posted, I agree you can also just change the solenoid for a 4th option.

[robzilla]

thanks for the info. i took some pics of the unit, and the one post is broken off. i was going to change to hei, but the unit i got from my brother has the hook up for a computer controller, thus making it not good for the truck. i am searching for another hei unit, that would work for this truck... the search continues. i'll hook up the purple wire, and turn over the engine to get it to tdc to allow for install of the distributor, and then pull the starter to change the solenoid.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by robzilla

i'm running points system, and the starter only has 2 terminals. the large one for the battery, and another smaller one. of the yellow and purple wires, which would go onto the smaller starter terminal. this starter was taken out of a 71 gmc. or will this starter not work? and where would the other wire go to?

Just so you know, a points system will start and run without the yellow wire or anything else connected to the R terminal. The only time you might need the R teminal is in cold weather, but in summer you certainly don't. A lot of people don't want to believe this - until they try it.

Tape up the starter end of the yellow wire so it doesn't short against anything, because it will be hot when the ignition switch is on.

Ray

[chev71c10 Australia]

Originally Posted by fixit-p

14 gauge is too small, stock is 12 gauge and the heat it's exposed to raises the resistance and is one of the cause of not starting when hot (also referred to as heat soak) 14 gauge will make it worst, the best thing you could do for that is the remote solenoid mod. http://madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml as far as the yellow wire 20 gauge is stock.

HI i had the same problem i fitted a fifty amp wire to the ignition . my starter war overheating and gave me the ****s . I have a high 2.9 high torque starter.
It has a polished allumminnium mounting block that bolts to the engine.I undid the allan key bolts the attatch the starter to the mount and rotated the starter within the mount 180 Degrees to try to settle the overheating problem.
The mount stays the same You end with the solinoid facing the road.
the starter never overheats and you dont need the seperate solinoid EASY FIX
hopethe helps cheers matt

[bpmack16]

I just redid my engine wiring harness. The problem I'm having now is the wire coming from the metering block to the starter also has 2 yellow wires connected to it like a Y, the two Uper parts of the Y are yellow wires and the base is the purple/pink wire I can't tell the exact color as the wire is old. But anyway truck ran fine for a day. After that the wire connected to the Y yellow wires melted all most burning up the truck. I believe one yellow wire goes to the HGI and the other to the starter then both connect to that purple/ pink with that states do not cut. So where is this messed up and why is it burning up the wires. O and the part that connects to the starter is on the small post closest to the block.